I have next week off, accommodation in near Sheffield booked, and a desire to remedy my relative ignorance of Peak bouldering. Previously the Peak had always been a bit betwixt and between for me - too far for an easy day-trip, but unlike the Lakes / North Wales / Northumberland, it felt too close (and somehow mundane?) to justify an overnight stay. So, time to open my mind and open my account....The forecast looks warm, and this being the UK, there will be rain, so I would appreciate any recommendations for shady / breezy grit and rain-resistant limestone. General crag recommendations, or specific problems in the 7a-7b+ range, would be gratefully received. I am a Yorkshire sport climbing refugee, weakling, and unreconstructed crimp pervert, so problems that comprise static pulls between ratty holds would be especially prized! Also, I only have the 2011 Ru Peak guide for reference, so please do not get my hopes up by mentioning crags with restricted access that you can not give directions to!
Burbage south edge in the morning can be ok. Loads there but electrical storm would seem a good choice.
Lees Bottom and Conies are now on the list for a look. I have a guide for Lees Bottom from the esoteric bouldering companion site but no topos for Conies. Is there an online guide for Conies or it just a matter of piecing it together from UKC and videos?
Hi Moose,Similar height climber recommendations follow :D1. Rubicon. Its fine before about 11am - when the sun comes onto Kudos wall. Forget Kudos, get stuck into a bigger tail, and a bigger splash. A bigger splash direct is soft 7B. If its overcast try the start to Caviar 7B - I think that will be right up your street. 2. Another vote for Conies - doesnt come into the sun until mid afternoon from memory. 3. Lees Bottom is OK - but can be very fickle with conditions. 4. Theres all the stuff in blackwell dale that you can climb on - that is right next to the road - but is classic. Beginners wall is a nice spot - and Man of Steel (and variations) there are good (I think - thats the 7A+ & 7B?)5. Tor: Always feel a bit meh about the Tor. Enjoyed Weedkiller Traverse though... 6. Finally. CragX. Think this would be a great one for you... Jericho Road mainly vert/slightly overhanging with a few droppable moves - I can see Pink Indians being up your street too.. If you need to know how to get there etc... drop me a message.
Do you have the BMC Peak Lime North guide? Conies is in there.
Quote from: tomtom on June 08, 2022, 10:20:40 amHi Moose,Similar height climber recommendations follow :D1. Rubicon. Its fine before about 11am - when the sun comes onto Kudos wall. Forget Kudos, get stuck into a bigger tail, and a bigger splash. A bigger splash direct is soft 7B. If its overcast try the start to Caviar 7B - I think that will be right up your street. 2. Another vote for Conies - doesnt come into the sun until mid afternoon from memory. 3. Lees Bottom is OK - but can be very fickle with conditions. 4. Theres all the stuff in blackwell dale that you can climb on - that is right next to the road - but is classic. Beginners wall is a nice spot - and Man of Steel (and variations) there are good (I think - thats the 7A+ & 7B?)5. Tor: Always feel a bit meh about the Tor. Enjoyed Weedkiller Traverse though... 6. Finally. CragX. Think this would be a great one for you... Jericho Road mainly vert/slightly overhanging with a few droppable moves - I can see Pink Indians being up your street too.. If you need to know how to get there etc... drop me a message.Went to Lees the other day and it was all in good nick, very sheltered too.I though A Bigger Splash was piss for 7B, one of those that's hard to grade I guess
The main thing that puts me off A Bigger Splash is the height - the videos make the finish look really high! My bones do not react well to big drops these days. Wellsy, I suspect I will be spanked by all these problems. I briefly tried a few of them years ago, when I was younger and stronger. I was unsuccessful then and I am definitely not in peak condition at the moment! I am currently in a "scrawny skeleton" phase - comparatively good at hanging crap crimps, but lack the beef to move between them (unless there is a cunning heel etc).
Off topic, but you sport climbing these days Moose or have you become a fulltime boulderer?
Something tells me that spending your time bouldering isn't perhaps the death knell you expect in terms of your sport climbing performance
Twisting in the Wind 7A+ at Windy Knoll Cave is brilliant and a perfect compliment to Sheep Shifter, being about 1 mile up the road and having an equally short walk in. It's on cracks, slopers and undercuts.