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Power Club 647 30 May - 5 June 2022 (Read 6392 times)

Fultonius

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Late to the party again.

Got some good training sessions in this week and a day out at a relatively new and decent venue above Glen Croe.

Mon:Breif BW repeaters. 4 sets of 8 reps. Struggling with HC on index finger.
Tuesday: TCA circuits. Crimpd 4x4 aero base. 6a/6b twice (no step off). 6b x 4. (hmm... Seem to have lost the rest! Not exciting, 3 more sets of 6bish with some 6b+ thrown in. Want to get to laps of 6c.
Weds:nowt
Thursday: Dumby Session, 3 working goes on Endurance (proper f8a and a step up from Sufferance) managed all bar one move, but having spoken with a mate it seems like I can maybe do what I thought might work with a gaston/press so that's good. 2.5 laps of the black wall 6b for some aeropow.
Friday: bouldering at Dubh Lic. Lovely day out with a few Glasgow folks. 2 x 6a, 1x 6b+ and 2x6c (all flashed) and a 7a that's morpho as fuck but I'll take it... (should have flashed it but probably got a bit of aid with a spotter-dab*, so didn't commit to the top out) got it third go. No such luck on the (amazing) 7b, Feast for Crows (stand) which I got all the moves on but just didn't have the beans for the crux throw after the rest of it. Keen to go back!
Sunday:Dollar Quarry with the lass. She's not been climbing much recently  due to shoulder issues, so checked it out. Some fun techy (or just awkward...) climbing but a terrible place for a workout! All mini cruxes with easy slab in between.
All in a good week of actual climbing and some decent training. Volume fairly low but feeling good because of it.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2022, 10:20:23 pm by Fultonius »

Wellsy

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AussieGav - what knee op did you have??

Wellsy - tell me that the G in UKGE stands for "goth"  :ninja: Also the Pinch is cool, I managed it a few years back, was quite a fight, I might have had to use footwork and all. Is it still intact after there was a fire lit beneath it??

Stands for games! Tabletop games to be precise. Lots of board games, rpgs etc :)

Well I have been told there was a crimp everyone used that broke off? I used a small boxy right hand pinch and large bad left hand pinch/compression, left foot on, pounce for the deep slot, right foot on, right hand to the big blocky pinch, then a bad smear for the right foot and go for a good ledge as the feet cut, campus left hand up to a jug, then again to the top jug.

duncan

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Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous.

And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+  feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August).

These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.

Duncan Disorderly

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Sore leg club...

M: Rest
T: Walk along Stanage
W: Foundry with daughter - Bit of bouldering and some autos up to F6c+
T: Sore calf... Rested
F: Nowt
S: Slipstones - Lovely afternoon with the GF and her mate doing 5's and 6's - Nowt harder than 6C but surprisingly decent connies and not another person in sight.
S: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping or surfing but GF was feeling poorly and the weather was crap... Drove home...

Meh... Calf strain I picked up in Verdon is still playing up, nothing too bad but just niggling... Feeling pretty low energy so not gonna fight it and have another chilled week before getting back on with it next week...

SA Chris

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Are you doing anything for calf? Stretching, massaging, foam rolling?

seankenny

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Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous.

And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+  feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August).

These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.

This is very sensible advice, if you're not hill fit then it's going to be hard to do four days on as compared to going to a more easily accessible venue. It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing. A wide range of grades even if those grades don't quite correspond to what you'd find in Spain, I'd say it's better in the 6s than Ceuse.

Obviously not a summer venue though. There are plenty of other crags in the region that are good quick hit options, but don't make the mistake of thinking early Sept is "autumn" in Provence rather than "just a few days after August", unless you can really take the heat.

Aussiegav

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S: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping

Where is the sport climbing near Saltburn?

Duncan Disorderly

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S: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping

Where is the sport climbing near Saltburn?

There's not a lot tbh, we were going to drive over to Coudy Rock but it's Appleby horse fair this week so thought better of it as apparently it gets a bit rammed and rowdy... We did find these areas near Durham https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/jack_scar_skears_scar-28507/#overview and https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_forgotten_quarry-28283/#overview.... Got the PFD so will probably check them out later in the summer as gonna head over for a surf and see some mates, look a bit scrappy but you never know...

Duncan Disorderly

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Are you doing anything for calf? Stretching, massaging, foam rolling?

Just trying to stretch it out... Probably should be doing the others too...  :goodidea:

SA Chris

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foam rolling deffo, I've got a reviber zen massager that really helps tight or sore calves, or any other muscles

Rocksteady

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Have been very slack on posting in Power Club recently, have weeks of training (and not training) to update on.

Highlights:
- 4 days in Magic Wood at end of May, first climbing-focused trip abroad since my son was born over 4 years ago. Made me realise how important it is for me to sometimes get away. Wasn't well-prepared for a few reasons below but flashed a couple of 6Cs which is good for me. Liked Switzerland and Magic Wood very much - it was very busy but never seemed too hard to get on something even on our own if we wanted. Found it frustratingly hard to find our way around though and the landings were awful. Also very stern on weaknesses - everything seemed to need high heels and hard pulling! Quite inspiring. Also stopped off on way back to airport at Murgtal which also seemed a good area to explore.
- Finger power to weight ratio is best ever. Am at similar levels of absolute strength to past but 3kg lighter.
- Getting back to best ever performance on my long-standing 50 degree board project at the Arch Acton. Just need to match the top hold. Feels like it will go.
- Back and neck issues a lot better, less tension headaches, less constant neckaches. Finally months/years of physio on this making improvements.

Lowlights:
- Have picked up an annoying tweak in left golfers elbow. Not getting much worse but not going away after 4 weeks or so now, will need to get physio.
- Caught Covid 3 weeks before going to Magic Wood. Kyboshed training even worse than the above. Not a bad dose at all by all accounts but just felt below par (and didn't want to spread it around or risk it getting worse) by going to the wall to train.
- Picked up a weird knee tweak leaving Magic Wood on the bouncy bridge up to Ausserferrera. Hasn't got much better in 2 weeks.


shark

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Gneiss time in Mingulay!

M. Depressing morning weigh in. Late start . Home warm up. Tor. Cool temps. Worked on cross thru on Bens. Belayed Graham C on Sardine then led up Tin Of clean to last move where I cocked up my foot sequence and fell off going for break. Then TRed to near the top and fell firing off a side hold. Some more work on Bens which still elicited no insights. Rubicon to finish for a bit of traversing.

T.

W. PM/Eve Set of recruitment and speed pulls. Max hangs on ergo edge. Similar scores to last week

T.

F. Left Sheff at 5am in drizzle. Fortunately Simon K driving. Rendezvous with rest of team at Oban. Dazzling weather Swapped with a Sheffield team onto the small boat. Stunning boat ride out and stopped to see a basking shark which came within 20feet of the boat. Swapped with more Sheffielders when disembarking. Campsite in a stunning exposed position on the headland above a sandy cove.

S .Midgy in the morning. Schlepped over to Boulevard getting bombed by skewers (bonksies!) Cliff unfortunately was shrouded in sea mist and still in the shade.
Abbed in. Rock was wet but Simon K jumped onto Okeanos E3 5c, 4b which was very bold in the conditions. With the sun now on the crag and I went on A Word with the Bill E3 5c, 5a which started with a steep crack. Unfortunately it was still wet/greasy in the crack. I jumped off and lowered to the ground a couple of times spying a decent cam placement the second time. Third go with a cam clipped to my collar which I thought would fit I got through the crux and finished the pitch. Down again and Simon led the first pitch of Ossian E2 5b, 4b. I must have taken the wrong line on the top pitch as it was a lot harder.
Good first day though feet sorer than they needed to be as had forgotten to cut my toenails. Also good for my head to have jumped off on the gear.

S. Amazing weather. Hiked out to Dun Mingulay the premier crag of the island (and arguably the uk) Lot of faff
/discussion deciding on the abseil location. Got a bit impatient and went down first. Crag in the shade still and hard to work out the lines especially as I’d forgotten to swap my sunglasses for my normal specs. Seals took an interest. Climbing with Chris M and I got to do the first crux pitch of Call of the Sea E3 5c, 5b (billed in the guide as a top ten route to do before you die) with two mega 50m pitches. Route finding was a bit tricky going through some intimidating ground but the moves all turned out to be very steady. Shared a belay next to a pair of guillemots as the sun came on the face. Next pitch almost as good as the first up the juggy overhanging headwall. Watched as the other teams did Sula E2 5b, 5b, 5a and it looked amazing so went back down to do that. Chris did the first pitch and I lucked out getting the second. There was a bold section I felt comfortable on then ran it out again on the juggy upper wall. Amazing. Can’t think of a better route at the grade. Felt I got my trad mojo back doing this. Back to the campsite at 9pm with plenty of light still left.

M. Dun Mingulay with Chris again and late start as usual (it’s best in the evening). Great weather but cloudier towards end of day. Golden eagle (distant) and puffin tick on the slog in. Voyage of Faith E3 5b, 5b, 5b, 5c to start which took a phenomenal line out over a sea arch with seals below - strictly space shuffling! Keen for more we then did Hurried Path E3 5b, 5b, 5c which had some spicy sections on some great features with a perplexing and amazing double roof on the last pitch. Was in happy place all day on these stunning routes.

T. Great weather continues. Late morning started slogging up the hill with Chris but got called back by the others. Word had been passed on that there was bad patch of weather coming in and the small boat to the island wouldn’t be running so we needed to get off the island at 7pm that evening. Carried on to Hidden Wall (oystercatcher tick on the way in) so Chris could have a go at The Gull Who Shagged Me E3 5c. He bailed at what turned out to be the last move. We pulled the ropes and I led it. I’d already had a scope to the left of Hidden Wall and there looked to be new route potential so abbed down to check out the options. At the base I soloed back up an excellent easy ramp and crack system then led two further good 60foot routes taking strong lines. If not done they are now: The Pirate’s Alphabet (Severe), Partial to the Argh HVS 5b and The Sea is Closest to my Heart E2 5c.

Shame the trip was cut short but having had four full on days I’m more than happy. Finally got to where I wanted to be with my trad climbing ie enjoying it. 

SA Chris

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Good job, glad you had a good trip. Shame it was cut short, but I've been camping on the coast on North Uist when a big storm has come through and it wasn't much fun, sleep didn't feature. And i hope you were bombed by skuas rather than skewers, as that might hurt a bit :)

Teaboy

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Nice one Shark! Great that you got so much done and seemed to hit the ground running. Must have been the max hangs in the aero edge before you left that did it!

shark

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Nice one Shark! Great that you got so much done and seemed to hit the ground running. Must have been the max hangs in the aero edge before you left that did it!

 :lol:

Duma

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Sounds great Shark, nice one!

Aussiegav

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It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing.
Thinking of last week in September. Going down on my motorcycle. What’s the likelihood of meeting some to climb with there?

seankenny

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It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing.
Thinking of last week in September. Going down on my motorcycle. What’s the likelihood of meeting some to climb with there?

I’m probably not the best person to answer this but I imagine not that great midweek. It’s quite quiet. I imagine it’s better if you speak good French, though I don’t know what the French equivalent of UKC is or how they organise climbing partners when they don’t have any. When I’ve visited there’s never been an obvious van life scene like you see at Siurana or Chulilla.

jwi

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I imagine it’s better if you speak good French, though I don’t know what the French equivalent of UKC is or how they organise climbing partners when they don’t have any.

WhatsApp or Facebook, alas.

I cannot think of a single crag in France with a "scene", except Céüse in the summer.

abarro81

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Deverse at Loup definitely has a scene and is easy to pick up belays (but not much use below 8a)

It's a long time since I was at Buoux but I think it would be more tricky there...

James Malloch

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Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous.

And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+  feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August).

These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.

This is very sensible advice, if you're not hill fit then it's going to be hard to do four days on as compared to going to a more easily accessible venue. It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing. A wide range of grades even if those grades don't quite correspond to what you'd find in Spain, I'd say it's better in the 6s than Ceuse.

Obviously not a summer venue though. There are plenty of other crags in the region that are good quick hit options, but don't make the mistake of thinking early Sept is "autumn" in Provence rather than "just a few days after August", unless you can really take the heat.

The walk is a slog but I still think it would be worth it (for me). Yes you might only do 3-4 routes a day vs. more at a more accessible crag. But staying in the campsite, meeting lots of people, climbing some amazing routes is well worth it for me.

The walk isn’t that bad if you go up early (thorgal and other sectors have the shade earlier on). Then you just have the 20 mins walk across in the heat rather than the full slog in full sun.

I’d probably take a rest day in 4 days there but there are worse places to be for it.

seankenny

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Yeah Ceuse is brilliant. I am just shit at walking up hills.

 

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