AussieGav - what knee op did you have??Wellsy - tell me that the G in UKGE stands for "goth" Also the Pinch is cool, I managed it a few years back, was quite a fight, I might have had to use footwork and all. Is it still intact after there was a fire lit beneath it??
Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes. Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.
Quote from: Aussiegav on June 06, 2022, 05:55:07 pmSeems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes. Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous. And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+ feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August). These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.
S: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping
Quote from: Duncan Disorderly on June 07, 2022, 01:16:39 pmS: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping Where is the sport climbing near Saltburn?
Are you doing anything for calf? Stretching, massaging, foam rolling?
Nice one Shark! Great that you got so much done and seemed to hit the ground running. Must have been the max hangs in the aero edge before you left that did it!
It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing.
Quote from: seankenny on June 07, 2022, 02:49:27 pmIt's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing. Thinking of last week in September. Going down on my motorcycle. What’s the likelihood of meeting some to climb with there?
I imagine it’s better if you speak good French, though I don’t know what the French equivalent of UKC is or how they organise climbing partners when they don’t have any.
Quote from: duncan on June 07, 2022, 10:14:58 amQuote from: Aussiegav on June 06, 2022, 05:55:07 pmSeems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes. Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous. And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+ feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August). These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.This is very sensible advice, if you're not hill fit then it's going to be hard to do four days on as compared to going to a more easily accessible venue. It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing. A wide range of grades even if those grades don't quite correspond to what you'd find in Spain, I'd say it's better in the 6s than Ceuse.Obviously not a summer venue though. There are plenty of other crags in the region that are good quick hit options, but don't make the mistake of thinking early Sept is "autumn" in Provence rather than "just a few days after August", unless you can really take the heat.