UKBouldering.com

max hangs (puntery) question (Read 4688 times)

Liamhutch89

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1262
  • Karma: +87/-1
#25 Re: max hangs (puntery) question
June 06, 2022, 01:17:58 pm
Thanks for the answers folks.
So weight is reduced to get a lower % hang.
How is this accurately acheived if your baseline is isometric (body weight)? Weight and pulley?
Is there a good reason why you don't reduce time instead? To a non-training layman this seems a simpler thing to accurately achieve from an isometric base.

I'm not sure I understand the first part, do you mean 1 arm hangs with assistance? Lets say a climber weighs 70kg and their maximum effort on a 5 second hang uses 10kg of assistance. Total load is therefore 60kg. If they want to train their 5 second hangs at 90% then the total load should be 54kg, which in practice means using 16kg of assistance.

I can't see any reason why reducing the duration wouldn't work, but I think you'd need to keep an eye on the total time under tension (TUT) and might want to equate volume. For example, if you test your max at 10 seconds and then train with 6 sets of 6 second hangs to reduce the effective intensity, the TUT would equal 36s rather than 60s, and you've almost cut your volume in half. I think you could use this to your advantage when structured correctly - several powerlifting programs have a training block where volume is increased followed by an block where intensity is increased. It could be difficult to know what drop in duration gets you in the 85%-95% range.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5751
  • Karma: +226/-4
#26 Re: max hangs (puntery) question
June 06, 2022, 01:23:59 pm
For most people it's just adding less weight. I'd venture that if you can't hang BW two armed from a one joint edge then there's probably better training to spend your time on. One armed generally will need a pulley for non beasts.

Reducing time is impractical I'd imagine, the margin in loading and unloading a hang, and judging the start and end point, is easily a second, which is more than say, 10% of a 7s hang.

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4289
  • Karma: +341/-25
#27 Re: max hangs (puntery) question
June 06, 2022, 02:05:20 pm
Is there a good reason why you don't reduce time instead?

There are protocols that take that rough approach too, e.g. take your 13s max and do it for 10s. Often done informally by people too ("seconds in reserve"/"reps in reserve").

I don't normally worry too much about exact %s. However, if I did, as a man who uses a 60bpm metronome to count seconds, if I wanted a specific figure it would be easier to change the assistance than do a 9.5s hang instead of 10s... or 6.3s hangs for 90% of my 7s max...

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9932
  • Karma: +561/-8
#28 Re: max hangs (puntery) question
June 06, 2022, 03:49:29 pm
Thanks again. Much appreciated.
I must admit, I was only considering one arm hangs.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal