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Significant First Ascents (Read 258672 times)

remus

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#725 Re: Significant First Ascents
October 28, 2024, 07:09:17 am
Austin Purdy has established a new 8C+ in Colorado he's called Sword of Damocles. Sounds like it was a close run thing to get it done with a road closure and snow due over winter.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/bouldering/united-states/mt-evans/sectors/aerials/routes/sword-of-damocles/

remus

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#726 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 06, 2024, 04:57:51 pm
The ever-present Nick Dixon looks to have added a new E7 to Nesscliffe called The Future is Watching You.


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#728 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 13, 2024, 05:36:03 pm
Looks like that project which it was rumoured he did some time ago and alluded to on careless talk.

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#729 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 13, 2024, 05:49:14 pm
Looks like that project which it was rumoured he did some time ago and alluded to on careless talk.

The one in this video?

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#730 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 13, 2024, 05:59:32 pm
Yeah looks like it's that one!

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#731 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 14, 2024, 08:59:56 am
 :o cool.

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#732 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 14, 2024, 04:47:25 pm
Is Aidan still out there ?

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#733 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 14, 2024, 05:05:16 pm
Is Aidan still out there ?

Still on his way I think, was in Costa Rica on the last pod.

remus

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#734 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 15, 2024, 04:20:37 pm
Jessica Pilz has did Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana yesterday. By my count that makes her the 12th woman to climb 9a+ or harder.

Wrong thread, soz. As penance please accept this offering.

« Last Edit: November 15, 2024, 05:19:51 pm by remus »

chriss

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#735 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 15, 2024, 06:36:50 pm
Really enjoyed that, usually mute Mellow edit's, but hot dang who doesn't love the Wu??

Strong climbing 💪

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#736 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 15, 2024, 07:27:53 pm
Incredible how quick these pro’s expect to do things… “got up to the top 4 times and haven’t done it”

Crikey spend a day in the life of me bro!

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#737 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 15, 2024, 11:23:41 pm
I noticed that too! 4 late falls on an easy-ish top out would be frustrating, but when it's the second hardest move, 4 is really not many at all.

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#738 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 01:17:34 am
I think that was a statement from a bit earlier in the process.  At least given his outfits shown throughout.  It shows what would appear to be at least four different outfits falling on the last move, and given that there were multiple tries with some of those same clothes, I think it's clear that he ended up falling ALOT more. 

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#739 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 12:26:52 pm
I just love how you have this great edit of a stonking 9A FA and the top youtube comment is about Will Bosi :lol:

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#740 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 04:34:00 pm
The gloom of the chamber was thick and ominous, matching the grim mood of Chapter Master Varian as he sat upon his command throne. Around him, statues of the ancients loomed over him, Moon, Moffat, even Dawes, their stone eyes gazing down upon the Master of the Adeptus Boulderifucus Chapter known only as the Makers of Beasts

He was lost in thought, but stirred as he heard movement behind him. He did not need to turn to know who it was, only Chief Librarian Palmierius would dare disturb his seclusion. "Yes?" he asked of his loyal agent.

"Sean Bailey has done it, my lord. He's given it 9A. Said there's this really hard shoulder move." Varian's armoured gauntlets gripped the thrones arms. "Show me"

At a single neural impulse, the vox-cast spun up in ghostly green before them. Varian watched the latest Mellow Drop. The soundtrack, the editing. He saw the holds. Jugs, all of them! Heresy. Deepest heresy. His rage deepened.

"Where is the Lion of Helvellyn, Captain of the First?" Palmierius bowed his head. "He is somewhere near Costa Rica my lord. Latest reports are that he's got a really nice tan." Varian frowned, his craggy brow deepening, before a wolfish grin split his face. There was another who might do this, a less controlled brother of the Chapter, but a fearsome one regardless. He had already completed many of the 9As, as foretold within the forbidden Codex Gaskinus. If he could complete them all, would the Chapters long torment be over? Would the fabled secrets of Shadowplay finally be open?

Leaning forward, Varian pressed a button on the throne. "Bring us into low orbit, above North America. Prepare the Bosinator." Satisfied, he leant back. Things were now in motion that could not be undone.

Within the bowels of the Battle Barge "Malc's Vengeance" arcane machinery stirred, surging with pulses of energy. Ancient capacitors and steaming pistons moved as a single icy chamber began to be warmed. Inside it, under layers of psycho-crystal inlaid adamantium, a lean figure stirred, as frozen flesh became flushed, the healing fluid of irn bru pumped through coiling tubes passed into epidermal ports. Fingers of titanium twitched. Around the chamber, robed priests chanted. Crimp. Hate. Heel hook. Vengeance. The mind within awoke and immediately knew it's dreadful purpose. Was not this it's very meaning for existence? As written by St Hunt himself, downgrading is it's own reward. The awakening cycle complete, there was a vibration that shook the whole ship, as a drop pod was blasted to the Earth, it's new inhabitant ready with tripod, iPhone and bag of Unicorn Dust. Before the day was out, there would be a terrible reckoning...

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#741 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 07:15:02 pm
Glorious, where's that roflcopter

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#742 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 08:04:48 pm
Utterly splendid.

The Bozination watches with anticipation...

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#743 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 08:51:22 pm
The gloom of the chamber was thick and ominous, matching the grim mood of Chapter Master Varian as he sat upon his command throne. Around him, statues of the ancients loomed over him, Moon, Moffat, even Dawes, their stone eyes gazing down upon the Master of the Adeptus Boulderifucus Chapter known only as the Makers of Beasts

He was lost in thought, but stirred as he heard movement behind him. He did not need to turn to know who it was, only Chief Librarian Palmierius would dare disturb his seclusion. "Yes?" he asked of his loyal agent.

"Sean Bailey has done it, my lord. He's given it 9A. Said there's this really hard shoulder move." Varian's armoured gauntlets gripped the thrones arms. "Show me"

At a single neural impulse, the vox-cast spun up in ghostly green before them. Varian watched the latest Mellow Drop. The soundtrack, the editing. He saw the holds. Jugs, all of them! Heresy. Deepest heresy. His rage deepened.

"Where is the Lion of Helvellyn, Captain of the First?" Palmierius bowed his head. "He is somewhere near Costa Rica my lord. Latest reports are that he's got a really nice tan." Varian frowned, his craggy brow deepening, before a wolfish grin split his face. There was another who might do this, a less controlled brother of the Chapter, but a fearsome one regardless. He had already completed many of the 9As, as foretold within the forbidden Codex Gaskinus. If he could complete them all, would the Chapters long torment be over? Would the fabled secrets of Shadowplay finally be open?

Leaning forward, Varian pressed a button on the throne. "Bring us into low orbit, above North America. Prepare the Bosinator." Satisfied, he leant back. Things were now in motion that could not be undone.

Within the bowels of the Battle Barge "Malc's Vengeance" arcane machinery stirred, surging with pulses of energy. Ancient capacitors and steaming pistons moved as a single icy chamber began to be warmed. Inside it, under layers of psycho-crystal inlaid adamantium, a lean figure stirred, as frozen flesh became flushed, the healing fluid of irn bru pumped through coiling tubes passed into epidermal ports. Fingers of titanium twitched. Around the chamber, robed priests chanted. Crimp. Hate. Heel hook. Vengeance. The mind within awoke and immediately knew it's dreadful purpose. Was not this it's very meaning for existence? As written by St Hunt himself, downgrading is it's own reward. The awakening cycle complete, there was a vibration that shook the whole ship, as a drop pod was blasted to the Earth, it's new inhabitant ready with tripod, iPhone and bag of Unicorn Dust. Before the day was out, there would be a terrible reckoning...

I look forward to Durham Red climbing out of the casket and flashing the surrounding clergy to dust

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#744 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 09:27:45 pm
The gloom of the chamber was thick and ominous, matching the grim mood of Chapter Master Varian as he sat upon his command throne. Around him, statues of the ancients loomed over him, Moon, Moffat, even Dawes, their stone eyes gazing down upon the Master of the Adeptus Boulderifucus Chapter known only as the Makers of Beasts

He was lost in thought, but stirred as he heard movement behind him. He did not need to turn to know who it was, only Chief Librarian Palmierius would dare disturb his seclusion. "Yes?" he asked of his loyal agent.

"Sean Bailey has done it, my lord. He's given it 9A. Said there's this really hard shoulder move." Varian's armoured gauntlets gripped the thrones arms. "Show me"

At a single neural impulse, the vox-cast spun up in ghostly green before them. Varian watched the latest Mellow Drop. The soundtrack, the editing. He saw the holds. Jugs, all of them! Heresy. Deepest heresy. His rage deepened.

"Where is the Lion of Helvellyn, Captain of the First?" Palmierius bowed his head. "He is somewhere near Costa Rica my lord. Latest reports are that he's got a really nice tan." Varian frowned, his craggy brow deepening, before a wolfish grin split his face. There was another who might do this, a less controlled brother of the Chapter, but a fearsome one regardless. He had already completed many of the 9As, as foretold within the forbidden Codex Gaskinus. If he could complete them all, would the Chapters long torment be over? Would the fabled secrets of Shadowplay finally be open?

Leaning forward, Varian pressed a button on the throne. "Bring us into low orbit, above North America. Prepare the Bosinator." Satisfied, he leant back. Things were now in motion that could not be undone.

Within the bowels of the Battle Barge "Malc's Vengeance" arcane machinery stirred, surging with pulses of energy. Ancient capacitors and steaming pistons moved as a single icy chamber began to be warmed. Inside it, under layers of psycho-crystal inlaid adamantium, a lean figure stirred, as frozen flesh became flushed, the healing fluid of irn bru pumped through coiling tubes passed into epidermal ports. Fingers of titanium twitched. Around the chamber, robed priests chanted. Crimp. Hate. Heel hook. Vengeance. The mind within awoke and immediately knew it's dreadful purpose. Was not this it's very meaning for existence? As written by St Hunt himself, downgrading is it's own reward. The awakening cycle complete, there was a vibration that shook the whole ship, as a drop pod was blasted to the Earth, it's new inhabitant ready with tripod, iPhone and bag of Unicorn Dust. Before the day was out, there would be a terrible reckoning...

The Emperor protects.

moose

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#745 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 16, 2024, 11:12:19 pm
Quote from: lagerstarfish
I look forward to Durham Red climbing out of the casket and flashing the surrounding clergy to dust
[/quote

I feel a Johnny Alpha versus beta flash pun is required here, but am struggling (still, I'm loving the memories).

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#746 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 17, 2024, 01:19:46 am
I kind of love that we now have 8? v17/9A's out there and they are mostly wildly different.

BoD - Short, Intense, Dynamic, Fingery, Conditiony, skin eater
Soudain Seul - Moderate/Long, Morpho, techy, needs a book
Return of the Sleepwalker - Moderate Length, Morpho?, More moderate start into hard finish (v13 into v15)
Alphane - long, seemingly friendly in holds and conditions, Hard start into a more moderate finish (v15 into v14?)
Megatron - Long, Skin Eater, Conditiony, (v15 into v14) very steep and fingery
Spots of Time - Short, Intense, Controlled, Fingery...
Arrival of Birds - Moderate Length, Highball, Technical, fingery, controlled
Shaolin - Moderate Length, Dynamic, Precise, ?

I'm sure I have some of this wrong as an armchair viewer.  But it strikes me that they are all quite different. 

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#747 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 17, 2024, 07:09:40 am
I kind of love that we now have 8? v17/9A's out there and they are mostly wildly different.

I'm sure I have some of this wrong as an armchair viewer.  But it strikes me that they are all quite different.

Currently up to 10, but your point is still true. Cool that the aspirant 9A climber has a few different things to go at, even an enduro roof crack! https://climbing-history.org/list/26/the-hardest-boulder-problems-in-the-world

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#748 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 18, 2024, 06:29:14 pm
2nd-hand information has it that Seb Bouin has done "Wolf Kingdom" in Pic Saint Loup. As a projecte the route was touted as "at least 9b+".

https://www.instagram.com/p/DChZCaPSddV
« Last Edit: November 18, 2024, 06:45:13 pm by jwi »

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#749 Re: Significant First Ascents
November 19, 2024, 09:24:54 am
Go on Seb.

 

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