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Significant First Ascents (Read 234144 times)

Teaboy

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#700 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 17, 2024, 12:15:23 am
Looks like it’s the week for hard trad belters in Eryri, Angus Killie has done a companion route to Crac Yr Maestri (another of James’s routes) in the Nant Peris quarries
https://www.instagram.com/p/C__JTgqtYa9/?igsh=NmFtY2RlNjJmaWJk

andy moles

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#701 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 17, 2024, 07:40:40 am
This is what happens when it finally stops raining for more than two days in a row.

Fiend

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#702 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 17, 2024, 09:14:02 am
Big stuff, big numbers  :strongbench:

Andy, no of course I don't have the Ogwen guide, there's about 0.5% of it that I can walk to and I've done most of what I want there already  ;)

andy moles

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#703 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 17, 2024, 11:10:01 am
Had you down as a man who would own a guidebook even if he could only walk to 0.5% of it, y'know?

remus

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#704 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 06:52:19 am
James Mchaffie has climbed Yma O Hyd (Still Here), a direct start to Mission Impossible. 8c+ with 'pretty good pro.'

https://www.instagram.com/p/C_3MO16NfL1/?hl=en&img_index=1

Good interview with climber.co.uk https://www.climber.co.uk/news/mchaffie-makes-first-ascent-of-yma-o-hyd-e10-7a-north-wales-hardest-trad-route/

"I'm confident it’s the hardest trad route in Wales and will give one of the two physically hardest in the UK next to Rhapsody, although I'll wait for the traffic to confirm."

andy moles

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#705 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 08:23:59 am
People bang on about how much of a 'mission' it is to get to Skyline Buttress (Caff doesn't, obviously).

It's about 45 minutes with 350m height gain. People regularly do more than that to boulder these days.

Pretty uncool that unnecessary pegs have been added to Mission Impossible since 2009, can we stop doing this on 'trad' routes please?

Grumbling over  :)
« Last Edit: September 18, 2024, 08:32:10 am by andy moles »

Duma

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#706 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 08:33:41 am
Good interview, well done Climber for more than just a repost.

And Yma O Hyd sounds brilliant, and nails.

Interesting/sad that new pegs are still being placed next to decent pro in the mountains.

teestub

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#707 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 10:24:45 am

It's about 45 minutes with 350m height gain. People regularly do more than that to boulder these days.


I’m no good at knowing metres of ascent, but from a look at the map, Rylstone is about 300m gain and Mallory Boulder is about 350m gain for some perspective for us bouldering types! Harter is probably 400+.

Fiend

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#708 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 10:51:56 am
Bottled oxygen territory.

Maybe it's that the Welsh wads and wadettes after their latest spadpointing routes with added pegs in have got used to a short walk in, no elevation so you don't get tired, coastal path, etc?


P.S. Andy, hah, nice idea but I draw the line at big walks. I do have an Ettringen guide and an Annot guide I really need to start using...

Will Hunt

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#709 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 11:30:45 am
It's Simon's Seat/Lord's Seat territory. Pathetic!

andy moles

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#710 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 12:19:41 pm
Spotter's badge, when the inevitable DMac repeat occurs, for a deftly placed comment about how nice it is to have such a handy hard route to repeat  :P

Anyway it's cool to see this done, such a brilliant bit of rock. Shame there isn't a wee bit more like it!

cheque

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#711 Re: Significant First Ascents
September 18, 2024, 09:58:40 pm
It's about 45 minutes with 350m height gain. People regularly do more than that to boulder these days.

Same as Cat Bells, described by Wainwright as “a family fell where grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together”

Ally Smith

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#712 Re: Significant First Ascents
Yesterday at 01:42:48 pm
Alex Barrows has completed the often eyed up link of  Hard Times SS (8B) into Sean's Roof (8A/+) to give "Pretence of Youth".

It's been given the ultimate cop-out slash grading monstrosity: 8B+/C/9a/+!

lukeyboy

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#713 Re: Significant First Ascents
Yesterday at 04:40:01 pm
Alex Barrows has completed the often eyed up link of  Hard Times SS (8B) into Sean's Roof (8A/+) to give "Pretence of Youth".

It's been given the ultimate cop-out slash grading monstrosity: 8B+/C/9a/+!

That grade is most dedicated piece of UKB trolling I've ever seen  ;D

Congrats on the FA Alex!

Fiend

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#714 Re: Significant First Ascents
Yesterday at 09:28:49 pm
Love it! Congrats on the grading monstrosity Barrows!!

 

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