UKBouldering.com

Significant First Ascents (Read 202667 times)

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
#550 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 21, 2024, 03:31:31 pm
This is a big one; Dan Varian has climbed the big arete left of Giggling Crack at Brimham:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brimham_rocks-538/weeping_arete-732957

Serious LGP stuff. I've stood under it a few times wondering if it'd go. It has some obvious holds but it's incredibly intimidating, as it's absolutely massive and clearly very hard. It looms over you with the sense of foreboding and dread increased by the fact it doesn't get much sun and by the dark cave to the left. I'd heard Dan had been spending a lot of time on it and that was cool enough to hear it might actually go, amazing to hear it's been done. Here's hoping for a video buried on Flickr soon.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
#551 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 21, 2024, 03:36:23 pm
Some reasonable photos of it on the True Grit page of UKC

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brimham_rocks-538/true_grit-28008#photos

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 626
  • Karma: +33/-0
#552 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 21, 2024, 04:11:06 pm
I have no idea how it looks but would love to hear how it compares to Bombadil if it's a tall sandstone highball.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
#553 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 21, 2024, 04:39:55 pm
Some reasonable photos of it on the True Grit page of UKC

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brimham_rocks-538/true_grit-28008#photos

It's the flipping massive prow just right of the belayer in the two colour pics on that page.

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1697
  • Karma: +155/-4
#554 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 21, 2024, 05:10:29 pm
This is a big one; Dan Varian has climbed the big arete left of Giggling Crack at Brimham:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brimham_rocks-538/weeping_arete-732957

Serious LGP stuff. I've stood under it a few times wondering if it'd go. It has some obvious holds but it's incredibly intimidating, as it's absolutely massive and clearly very hard. It looms over you with the sense of foreboding and dread increased by the fact it doesn't get much sun and by the dark cave to the left. I'd heard Dan had been spending a lot of time on it and that was cool enough to hear it might actually go, amazing to hear it's been done. Here's hoping for a video buried on Flickr soon.

ah yeah, this is brilliant! :dance1:

I've looked at that prow plenty of times wondering if it would be possible, the top part just looks so unlikely. It's such an impressive feature!

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9969
  • Karma: +568/-10
#555 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 21, 2024, 08:42:18 pm
Awesome! Proper LGP line.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
#556 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 21, 2024, 10:03:07 pm
Colossal!! Spotted that decades ago on a first visit and always speculated whether it would be possible.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brimham_rocks-538/gigglin_crack-28009#photos first shot on here shows it well, obviously needed a light brush then.

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 809
  • Karma: +93/-2
#557 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 22, 2024, 08:35:51 am
Looks great, top out looks like it would be terrifying 😬

sherlock

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 510
  • Karma: +24/-0
#558 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 22, 2024, 08:40:44 am
Max with The Ace, Jim E9 up at Kinder and now this by Dan.
Can I be first to call the grit this year?

GazM

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 539
  • Karma: +29/-0
    • Highland ramblings
#559 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 24, 2024, 06:18:20 pm
Here's hoping for a video buried on Flickr soon.

No video, but a big photo dump has just appeared on Flickr.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
#560 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 24, 2024, 06:27:28 pm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/53812181746/

Plus several more including ascent shots.

Should be called Weeping Wall really.

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2982
  • Karma: +152/-1
#561 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 26, 2024, 06:58:51 am
Significant in terms of radness of line rather than being a massive number, but Rob Hunter has opened up a new highball in at Fair Head he's called Revelation and suggested 8A for.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C8ovKSHN4p1/

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2982
  • Karma: +152/-1
#562 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 27, 2024, 08:24:53 pm
Matt Helliker has added a new line he's called Race E9 7a down in Cornwall.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C8urBsPt9cf/

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2982
  • Karma: +152/-1
#563 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 04, 2024, 10:29:50 am
Continuing in the Carn Gloose theme, Solly Kembell Dorey has added a highball he's called A Reason to Die 8B+. It looks to be a more complete version of a line he climbed a few years ago called A Reason to Live, adding a sit start and a top out.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C8_sKS6Numu/

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
#564 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 04, 2024, 12:19:49 pm
Looks cool, nifty footwork.

mattsparksy

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 10
  • Karma: +0/-0
#565 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 12:54:54 am
This is a big one; Dan Varian has climbed the big arete left of Giggling Crack at Brimham:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brimham_rocks-538/weeping_arete-732957

Serious LGP stuff. I've stood under it a few times wondering if it'd go. It has some obvious holds but it's incredibly intimidating, as it's absolutely massive and clearly very hard. It looms over you with the sense of foreboding and dread increased by the fact it doesn't get much sun and by the dark cave to the left. I'd heard Dan had been spending a lot of time on it and that was cool enough to hear it might actually go, amazing to hear it's been done. Here's hoping for a video buried on Flickr soon.


Not sure if anyone's linked to it yet but it seems Eden Rock did us the favour of posting the footage. Looks great!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C84sQzVNY-J/?igsh=bTF0N3E5bXptcGN4

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9697
  • Karma: +267/-4
#566 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 06:52:05 am
Is this where Franco turns up and says he climbed the wall not the arete?  :jab:

Also  :o.

Davo

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 520
  • Karma: +26/-4
#567 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 08:07:43 am
Is this where Franco turns up and says he climbed the wall not the arete?  :jab:

Also  :o.

That made me laugh! But yes it looks more like the wall than the arete to me. Looks well high, scary, hard and committing to me! Definitely a great effort

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
#568 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 09:57:05 am
Is this where Franco turns up and says he climbed the wall not the arete?  :jab:

A....
Should be called Weeping Wall really.
....hem.

I think we all agree with  :o tho!


remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2982
  • Karma: +152/-1

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2856
  • Karma: +136/-3
#570 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 07:12:38 pm
This is a big one; Dan Varian has climbed the big arete left of Giggling Crack at Brimham:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/brimham_rocks-538/weeping_arete-732957

Serious LGP stuff. I've stood under it a few times wondering if it'd go. It has some obvious holds but it's incredibly intimidating, as it's absolutely massive and clearly very hard. It looms over you with the sense of foreboding and dread increased by the fact it doesn't get much sun and by the dark cave to the left. I'd heard Dan had been spending a lot of time on it and that was cool enough to hear it might actually go, amazing to hear it's been done. Here's hoping for a video buried on Flickr soon.


Not sure if anyone's linked to it yet but it seems Eden Rock did us the favour of posting the footage. Looks great!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C84sQzVNY-J/?igsh=bTF0N3E5bXptcGN4

Nice one thanks, hadn't seen that. Cruised it!

chickencurry60

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 25
  • Karma: +1/-0
#571 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 09:45:37 pm
Really good write-up from Dan. I'm still amazed that Will or Aiden haven't done the rail. For me at least, it's such an iconic Varian line, and I'd be pestering them both to go and get on it. Unless they have and got shut down?

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2982
  • Karma: +152/-1
#572 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 10:57:00 pm
Really good write-up from Dan. I'm still amazed that Will or Aiden haven't done the rail. For me at least, it's such an iconic Varian line, and I'd be pestering them both to go and get on it. Unless they have and got shut down?

I get the impression it's really conditions dependant which I guess is a pain if you're not local. Would be cool to see them get stuck in though, could well do with a repeat.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
#573 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 05, 2024, 11:31:41 pm
It is a great write-up indeed. It's always a pleasure to read about the pure act of climbing in that way.

yetix

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 626
  • Karma: +33/-0
#574 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2024, 05:53:17 pm
Sounds like Pope has done something new and hard at Kinder based on his insta story. Looks well good in the photo.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal