UKBouldering.com

Significant First Ascents (Read 182376 times)

spidermonkey09

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2870
  • Karma: +162/-4
#500 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 11, 2024, 11:38:24 am
Powerful tache. He should be playing AFL.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2633
  • Karma: +172/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#501 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 11, 2024, 12:06:12 pm

Also....

Quote
I’m not really sure how to write a caption about something that I’ve been looking at for 12+ years, trying for 6 seasons and thought I might never send. But… I’m fucking psyched to have seen this one through!!!

...seems to be the sort of simple, direct way one could communicate this sort of thing:

Quote
simply had a profound experience and he wasn't sure how to share it with the wider climbing public without the whole thing getting reduced down to numbers.

Aidan basically talked for about 40 mins on the pod about the experience, that would be quite a long instagram caption!

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5563
  • Karma: +347/-5
#502 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 12, 2024, 05:29:15 am
Keenan Takahashi has made the first ascent of The Gold Standard on the Golden Boulder in Bishop. This feels pretty significant; proper LGP stuff. The face was originally climbed by Sonnie Trotter and named Standing on the Shoulders of Giants, and so named because one literally had to stand on a partner's shoulders to reach the start holds. What a line!

https://www.instagram.com/p/C5loYhuJAz4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Here's another recent FA from the moustachioed one (or the film is recent anyway).


gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1818
  • Karma: +148/-6
#503 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 04:33:50 pm
Noticed Dave Mc did his long term project at 8B+, and followed the trend of not telling anyone for a month. Will Bosi repeated in in a day a few weeks back and held off with that news until Dave released his. I had thought this would be harder as its taken him a long time.

News from Instagram.

This may have been reported earlier, its on climbing History,  but i cant be arsed to wade through pages of stuff about paywalls to check.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13491
  • Karma: +683/-68
  • Whut
#504 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 04:46:27 pm
https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/p/C5v6ldgIbo6/?hl=en

Quote
A couple of weeks ago I completed my long term project on the Animal Boulder near Inverness. Although I did all the moves a couple of winters ago, I really struggled to link it from the start to the position in this pic. As usual for me, despite many tens of sessions, I kept changing things in my sequence right up to the session before I did it. One of these days, I'll complete a project that actually feels hard when you do it. Once I actually figured out beta that got around my lack of strength on undercuts, the successful try felt pretty steady. The first time I got to the lip, I got to the top. Given that the Animal Boulder looks like a bear's head, I'm calling this line 'Bultitude' after the soft spoken but deadly bear in C.S. Lewis' 'That Hideous Strength'. Torn on the grade but I'll go with 8B+ for now. 8B seems a bit harsh, although maybe folk strong on undercuts will find it easier. I have another project that relies on undercut strength and quite psyched to try that some more, now that I have some freedom from this line. I have some video of it to finish editing - its been a busy couple of weeks!

Two teasers of recent progress:
https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/reel/C4vIRQrLZcS/?hl=en
https://www.instagram.com/climbermacleod/reel/C4xYub6LE3g/?hl=en

scragrock

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 325
  • Karma: +45/-0
#505 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 04:51:36 pm
Shite Boulder in a Shite location.....Don't Go

Duncan campbell

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 778
  • Karma: +47/-2
#506 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 05:33:23 pm
“It’s shite being Scottish, you’ve got the lowest of the low, shite boulders in shite locations…”

Sorry couldn’t help myself :P

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29342
  • Karma: +638/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#507 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 05:41:14 pm
Have you just looed at Robbie Philips' latest IG post. He references exactly that.

gme

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1818
  • Karma: +148/-6
#508 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 06:10:44 pm
Just a shame about the real issue of weather and midge.

Must be some hard problems for Will to do somewhere up there.

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 557
  • Karma: +44/-4
#509 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 06:33:28 pm
“It’s shite being Scottish, you’ve got the lowest of the low, shite boulders in shite locations…”

Sorry couldn’t help myself :P

Love the reference.
When I saw Trainspotting at the cinema a huge group of local heroin addicts went to the showing. They smoked joints and drank white lightning all the way through and would whistle and shout every time the characters started shooting up.
When this scene came on a random scotish guy who happened to be in the front row stood up and screamed at the screen "don't you be talking shite about Scotland you c*nts"
Just an average day growing up in Grimsby

Duncan campbell

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 778
  • Karma: +47/-2
#510 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 15, 2024, 06:57:46 pm
Have you just looed at Robbie Philips' latest IG post. He references exactly that.

Haha 😂 no I haven’t… still sadly unoriginal of me I guess

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2925
  • Karma: +149/-1
#511 Re: Significant First Ascents
April 22, 2024, 04:33:53 pm
Tanguy Merad had a good couple of days on the 8th and 9th of April, establishing La cinquantaine éclatante 9a+, Brouncha 9a and then Hannigraal 9b at L’Abattoir near Grenoble.

https://planetgrimpe.com/incroyable-tanguy-merard-propose-hannigraal-9b-a-grenoble/

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4258
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#512 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 06, 2024, 04:18:13 pm
Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.


Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard

HVS 7b?

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4364
  • Karma: +146/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#513 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 06, 2024, 05:25:46 pm
Darth Grader reckons that converts into 8c+ route, and then running through E-Grader makes it Easy E11 with pads.

But since the 7B bit is the dodgey bit, maybe E6? Or would it be E4? Maybe E7?  :alky:

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4258
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#514 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 06, 2024, 06:55:02 pm
Crystal clear!

lukeyboy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 552
  • Karma: +26/-1
#515 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 06, 2024, 07:20:04 pm
Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.


Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard

HVS 7b?

That looks terrifying!

remus

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2925
  • Karma: +149/-1
#516 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 07, 2024, 07:47:14 am
Doesn't sound like a typical headpoint experience either.

Quote
I knew I wasn’t ready. I estimated my chances of falling at around two out of three, which is not enough for a block of this type. Plus, even though I had unlocked the moves, I hadn't yet managed to rope from the ground. At the same time, I was also afraid of not finding the motivation to start the process from scratch next season. I had 20 crash pads and two good spotters with Fabien and Simon. We placed them at the foot of the boulder, and I told myself that a fall in the main crux would be scary but probably not dangerous in the event of a good save. As for recovery, I knew how to do it, I just had to trust myself. So I decided to give it a try.

joe-m

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 12
  • Karma: +1/-0
#517 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 07, 2024, 09:12:55 am
Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.


Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard

HVS 7b?

looks class, fair play that looks high!

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4258
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#518 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 07, 2024, 10:57:17 am

Quote
I knew I wasn’t ready. I estimated my chances of falling at around two out of three, which is not enough for a block of this type. Plus, even though I had unlocked the moves, I hadn't yet managed to link it on toprope. At the same time, I was also afraid of not finding the motivation to start the process from scratch next season. I had 20 crash pads and two good spotters with Fabien and Simon. We placed them at the foot of the boulder, and I told myself that a fall in the main crux would be scary but probably not dangerous in the event of a good save. As for the mantel, I knew how to do it, I just had to trust myself. So I decided to give it a try.

Very lightly edited because current LLMs don't recognise climbing context.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5563
  • Karma: +347/-5
#519 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 21, 2024, 05:08:49 am
Keenan Takahashi has made the first ascent of The Gold Standard on the Golden Boulder in Bishop. This feels pretty significant; proper LGP stuff. The face was originally climbed by Sonnie Trotter and named Standing on the Shoulders of Giants, and so named because one literally had to stand on a partner's shoulders to reach the start holds. What a line!

https://www.instagram.com/p/C5loYhuJAz4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Now with particularly nice film:


lukeyboy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 552
  • Karma: +26/-1
#520 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 21, 2024, 08:39:22 pm
Keenan Takahashi has made the first ascent of The Gold Standard on the Golden Boulder in Bishop. This feels pretty significant; proper LGP stuff. The face was originally climbed by Sonnie Trotter and named Standing on the Shoulders of Giants, and so named because one literally had to stand on a partner's shoulders to reach the start holds. What a line!

https://www.instagram.com/p/C5loYhuJAz4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Now with particularly nice film:



Thanks, that was a lovely little film. The sort of thing you could show someone to explain what projecting is like.

Also doesn't Bishop look like a stunning place (for those like me who've not been).

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4364
  • Karma: +146/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#521 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 22, 2024, 05:05:33 am
The whole way through I just kept wondering how anyone can focus with all the inane "support" chatter in the background.

Then they shut the fuck and and he did it....

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3599
  • Karma: +312/-2
#522 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 22, 2024, 07:09:41 am
Great little film, really enjoyed it.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2633
  • Karma: +172/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#523 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 22, 2024, 08:23:10 am
The whole way through I just kept wondering how anyone can focus with all the inane "support" chatter in the background.

He does the same, so is obviously into it, how strange that different people are motivated by different things!

If you don’t like it I’d avoid bouldering anywhere in the states, although, like eating massive portions and drinking strong beers, it kinda comes with the territory and you get used to it very quickly.

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1844
  • Karma: +285/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#524 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 22, 2024, 12:44:35 pm
Nice vid and beautiful line but it did make me laugh how they make such a big deal out of it being the true stand given he starts off stacked pads.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal