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Significant First Ascents (Read 190376 times)

jwi

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#425 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 17, 2023, 09:45:30 pm
I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top



 ;)

Hahaha. I would give it 8a.

haydn jones

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#426 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 18, 2023, 08:06:25 am
That sounds exactly like the pinch test at water cum jolly which is 7c+ and definitely not 8a

AMorris

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#427 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 18, 2023, 04:00:41 pm
Dunno if it has been mentioned elsewhere, but Leo Skinner has done the direct start (from tourists jug) to Pool of Bethesda at 8B+. OG beta on Pool, if anyone is wondering.

spidermonkey09

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#428 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 18, 2023, 04:22:15 pm
That sounds exactly like the pinch test at water cum jolly which is 7c+ and definitely not 8a

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/water-cum-jolly-140/the_pinch_test-149413

haydn jones

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#429 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 18, 2023, 05:16:50 pm
Yes I know it's in UKC as 8a which is why I was saying it's definitely not. It

lukeyboy

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#430 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 09:42:50 am
This is pretty cool - whilst 8c+ may not be significant in itself, it's a very good flash, and (I assume) rare for a high standard sport route to be flashed for it's FA.

https://gripped.com/news/bouin-flashes-5-14c-first-ascent-in-france/

Duma

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#431 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 10:11:20 am
Thought the fact his previous best flash was 8b+ was more astonishing to be honest! Who on earth has more than a number grade between RP and flash??

jwi

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#432 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 10:43:50 am
8c+ first go is world class. There are likely fewer than a dozen climbers who have done this. (From the top of my head: Midtbø, Becan(?), Usobiaga, Julián Puigblanqué, Schubert, Ondra, Megos, hmm... can't think of more)
« Last Edit: August 11, 2023, 10:52:16 am by jwi »

Duma

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#433 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 10:48:03 am
Of course. But it's also 5 grades below his RP level.

jwi

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#434 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 10:51:34 am
Thought the fact his previous best flash was 8b+ was more astonishing to be honest! Who on earth has more than a number grade between RP and flash??

A red point specialist? Stefano Ghisolphi has almost the same difference. I must say that I am a bit sceptical about the info that Seb's best flash previous was 8b+. He onsighted 8c when he was a teenager, and downgraded it of course, but I don't know if the downgrade stuck.

Dingdong

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#435 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 11:17:45 am
I wonder if it would see a downgrade. Hard to imagine you can flash something as complex as that with the absolute best beta possible. Surely the o dawg will find a kneebar  :lol:

Ally Smith

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#436 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 11:35:39 am
Tom O'Halloran has completed his multi year project "Hump of Trouble" in the blue mountains.

https://youtube.com/@TomOHalloranAus

No grade yet, but described by him as V13 into V13 with no rest in his recent podcast with Sam & Aiden.

Darth Grader suggests 9b+?!?

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#437 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 11:38:31 am
Tom O'Halloran has completed his multi year project "Hump of Trouble" in the blue mountains.

https://youtube.com/@TomOHalloranAus

No grade yet, but described by him as V13 into V13 with no rest in his recent podcast with Sam & Aiden.

Darth Grader suggests 9b+?!?

vid of the moves -

Wellsy

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#438 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 12:02:12 pm
Is it a route or a boulder? Vid won't play for me

Edit: ah route I see

jwi

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#439 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 12:14:10 pm
I wonder if it would see a downgrade. Hard to imagine you can flash something as complex as that with the absolute best beta possible. Surely the o dawg will find a kneebar  :lol:

 The bolter suggested 8c+/9a, but after the flash Seb went up again to dog the route to check what it felt like with optimal sequences and suggested hard 8c+.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2023, 12:42:46 pm by jwi »

Dingdong

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#440 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 11, 2023, 01:16:09 pm
I wonder if it would see a downgrade. Hard to imagine you can flash something as complex as that with the absolute best beta possible. Surely the o dawg will find a kneebar  :lol:

 The bolter suggested 8c+/9a, but after the flash Seb went up again to dog the route to check what it felt like with optimal sequences and suggested hard 8c+.

Ah nice, good to see he went back to clean up the sequence. I was surprised as usually when worked FAs go up people still seem to find new sequences, guess this could still be the case possibly. Amazing feat anyways. Can’t imagine what it must feel like to flash something that hard  :jaw:

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#441 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 21, 2023, 02:15:52 pm
Somehow I'd totally missed that one of Scotland's under the radar dark horses had completed his long-standing E10 projects on the Aberdeen seacliffs. One for Remus' list:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/long_haven_quarries-3201/coldfinger-683151

Nice one Gordy. (Lennox)

Despite having just checked the list I somehow totally missed that it was on there....  :chair:

SA Chris

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#442 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 21, 2023, 02:34:51 pm
A set of impressive hard routes on that wall now. Good effort.

Wellsy

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#443 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 21, 2023, 02:58:19 pm
Waddage

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#444 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2023, 10:02:13 am
Mat Wright has climbed a new E10 called Black Thistle in Glen Nevis.

Goes up the blunt arete of Pandora's Buttress, to the right of Dave Mac's Misadventure (E8). Possibly to a shared finish? I saw his rope on this a couple of weeks ago, kinda surprised it hadn't been done by the Mac previously as it's very conspicuous, even from the road.

remus

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#445 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2023, 10:21:02 am
Good knowledge. Noticed some hints on his insta a few weeks ago and been waiting for some more detail to emerge.

andy moles

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#446 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2023, 10:52:05 am
Horrendous time of year to have a hard project at Polldubh! Lucky for him there have been a decent number of breezy days.

SA Chris

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#447 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2023, 10:37:30 pm
Either midgy or roasting in there right now. Good going.

Bradders

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#448 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 30, 2023, 09:42:40 pm
Another new 8C in the South West for Solly

https://www.instagram.com/p/CwlEFB4NKhs/?igshid=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

Seen some other pics floating about, looks like an incredible bit of coastal rock.

SA Chris

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#449 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 31, 2023, 08:13:47 am
Mat Wright has climbed a new E10 called Black Thistle in Glen Nevis.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/08/black_thistle_e10_7a_-_first_ascent_by_mat_wright-73432

full splab now here.

Quote
starting climbing had to wait until I was old enough to take my own path at sixteen.
strange that this would be regarded as old these days. I was 20 before I knew rock climbing was even a thing.
« Last Edit: August 31, 2023, 08:21:33 am by SA Chris »

 

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