[Will Hunt]

Has anyone else tried this project and confirmed the grade? Very cool to see Sharma making a comeback.

[dunnyg]

Yeah, 9b seemed fair.

[Fiend]

The route is described here

Cheers JWI, that looks great, proper sharma style. Strong beard game too.

[Bradders]

Yeah, 9b seemed fair.

/+

[gme]

No news on this anywhere other than on here and reddit (which i suspect came from here).

Has this actually happened or has someone called it to soon.

[iwasmexican]

No news on this anywhere other than on here and reddit (which i suspect came from here).

Has this actually happened or has someone called it to soon.

see below- sounds like a first hand report

Sharma has climbed his Sleeping Lion project on El Pati. 9b or 9b+. The victory whoops were audible in Cornudella.

[gme]

Did he see him or hear some noise from Cornudella.

Find it hard to believe its nowhere on the internet other than here or has he gone all Sean Raboutou and not telling anyone until next year.

[UnkArl]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CqbAk3UMzqj/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Climbing Magazine are reporting it in an “exclusive interview”

[Ged]

9b± too. No slash grade.

[gme]

I spoke too soon. Seems like there is a move to hold off the insta spray until it can be released in a controlled media type of manner.

A well done UKB in being ahead of the curve.

[andy popp]

Grading disputes aside, having just watched various Insta videos, including one of a very long link he did last year, this just looks like an absolutely stunning, stunning route on an amazing, effectively untouched wall. The quality would seem more important than the grade really.

[Wellsy]

Mega impressive from Sharma. What a guy.

[highrepute]

Grading disputes aside, having just watched various Insta videos, including one of a very long link he did last year, this just looks like an absolutely stunning, stunning route on an amazing, effectively untouched wall. The quality would seem more important than the grade really.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cc0fS-oK7L3

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cj_WGEVgcVI

[lukeyboy]

Very cool. Great to see Sharma still up there with the best.

Also I think I'm safe in assuming that the name is a tribute to LST at Cheddar, I mean the resemblance is uncanny.

[shark]

Good interview by Sharma reflecting on getting his shit together to do this with the other things going on his life and other nuggets of wisdom (IMO best to scroll down past the guff to get to the actual interview)

https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana

[abarro81]

Good interview by Sharma reflecting on getting his shit together to do this with the other things going on his life and other nuggets of wisdom (IMO best to scroll down past the guff to get to the actual interview)

https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana

https://web.archive.org/web/20230331020752/https://www.climbing.com/news/exclusive-interview-chris-sharma-makes-5-15c-fa-in-siurana/

Should get you past the paywall

[duncan]

If you’ve not been to Siurana, El Pati is the showpiece. It has two clusters of hard routes at either end of the main part: the La Rambla sector on the left and routes around Kalea Borroka / Estado Critico on the right. There is a large gap between these two areas which had no routes on it until now. Sleeping Lion takes a blue streak up the middle. It looks amazing.

https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/spain/siurana/el-pati

It’s been quite warm in Siurana so Siuranella Est, which gets shade in the afternoon, has been a popular crag. It has a great view of El Pati on the other side of the valley. Sharma would turn up at around 5pm as the shadows started to creep up his route. The crowds on Sirunella had grandstand seats for his attempts. No pressure!

[Edited as first version could have been construed as a dig at gme. Not my intention, I thought he had a fair point and was surprised at the lack of buzz before the ‘official’ announcement.]

[Bradders]

Of much more local significance; Marco Giudice has done Jason's Roof without the use of the detached footblock to the left at the start. He's been working on it for a good while, and I have to say it looks like it adds some very good looking climbing and a fair bit of difficulty; it was a while ago that I was last there and chatted to him while he was on it but I'm sure he said it's something like adding a 7C or 7C+ to the start?

[yetix]

This looks awesome Nick! I guess it must be 8A+ish from my armchair using Paul Robinsons grade formula?

Do big cave links constitute significant FAs? Between ticking basically every 8A going last year and continuing to do so this year Jack Pal has done in hell through to lip service via the pilgrimage drop down today, which must be similiar to pilgrimage in difficulty and I believe is the first time anyone has gone from in hell to the lip (with desroy famously (?) punting off the last move of Clyde from the same start a fair few years back (think that's correct?))

Edit, now he's done Dernier atrocity into the same finish (lip service via the pilgrimage undercut match)

[36chambers]

Of much more local significance; Marco Giudice has done Jason's Roof without the use of the detached footblock to the left at the start. He's been working on it for a good while, and I have to say it looks like it adds some very good looking climbing and a fair bit of difficulty; it was a while ago that I was last there and chatted to him while he was on it but I'm sure he said it's something like adding a 7C or 7C+ to the start?

Hero! Always thought this looked like it would be a better problem than the original. Am I right in thinking he originally pissed the normal version? Must add a bit if this took some doing.

[Bradders]

This looks awesome Nick! I guess it must be 8A+ish from my armchair using Paul Robinsons grade formula?

The best roof on grit just got better!

Of much more local significance; Marco Giudice has done Jason's Roof without the use of the detached footblock to the left at the start. He's been working on it for a good while, and I have to say it looks like it adds some very good looking climbing and a fair bit of difficulty; it was a while ago that I was last there and chatted to him while he was on it but I'm sure he said it's something like adding a 7C or 7C+ to the start?

Hero! Always thought this looked like it would be a better problem than the original. Am I right in thinking he originally pissed the normal version? Must add a bit if this took some doing.

I don't know tbh but he's a bit of a monster, especially in this style, so it won't be easy! Psyched to try it!

[Kingy]

I believe is the first time anyone has gone from in hell to the lip (with desroy famously (?) punting off the last move of Clyde from the same start a fair few years back (think that's correct?))

I remember Liam getting really close to that link back in 2008 or so. Yeah, to my knowledge, nobody else has previously done an In Hell start all the way to the lip

[Steve R]

..... without the bloc

[crimpinainteasy]

Seb Bouin has made another 9b FA. Guy is on fire right now.

[jwi]

Seb Bouin has made another 9b FA. Guy is on fire right now.

Lucien Martinez writes about it here: https://www.grimper.com/news-30-ans-9b-our-seb-bouin

After having done the FA of Ariégeois Cœur Loyal in the morning of his thirtieth birthday, Seb celebrated by dragging everyone to the gym for a mega session, with lock offs, weighted pullups, campusing, bouldering, specific strength endurance and core, which destroyed Lucien (who is also an endurance monster).

Apparently you don't get the required endurance for stamina 9bs and 9cs without training.