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Significant First Ascents (Read 248571 times)

Duma

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#225 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 20, 2023, 07:55:29 pm
Ondras new thing is a link too?

Kingy

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#226 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 20, 2023, 08:05:54 pm
oh yes so it is! guess that theorys out the window...

remus

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#227 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 20, 2023, 09:10:55 pm
I think it's just because Ondra and Stefano have a bigger media presence. Ondra in particular has a pretty impressive squad who work with him by the sounds of it. Jorge's one man IG account is the dark horse of pro climbers!

andy moles

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#228 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 08:00:56 am
This was interesting to me at least, just noticed that Dan Varian has done the project wall left of The Mission in Torridon this month, which I believe he's been trying on and off for many years:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_magna_strata-679930

lukeyboy

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#229 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 08:11:37 am
This was interesting to me at least, just noticed that Dan Varian has done the project wall left of The Mission in Torridon this month, which I believe he's been trying on and off for many years:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_magna_strata-679930

Brilliant, thanks for sharing. Looks to me like it goes up the middle of the rippled face to the R of Malcs Arete. From the road you'd expect a route up that face to be about 5+, amazing that it's so hard but still possible. It's a lovely bit of rock.

scragrock

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#230 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 08:23:46 am
This was interesting to me at least, just noticed that Dan Varian has done the project wall left of The Mission in Torridon this month, which I believe he's been trying on and off for many years:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_magna_strata-679930

Yup, i confirm its been years in the making. i had a conversation with Dan as he was working/cleaning it on a rope some years back, he thought it was hard, then popped a crucial pebble and suspected it might not go.
I would appear that it does go ;D
Great effort Dan and a fine addition to Torridon.

remus

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#231 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 08:38:14 am
Quality name game too.

Bradders

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#232 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 09:23:41 am
Really flipping cool.

GazM

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#233 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 10:50:54 am
Think Dan's been trying it off and on for 11 years. Amazing persistence. Expect we'll be waiting just as long (or forever?) for a repeat. I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.

remus

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#234 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 12:32:29 pm
Expect we'll be waiting just as long (or forever?) for a repeat. I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.

Dunno, having 2 or 3 grades in hand can make up for quite a lot. Hopefully it doesn't linger unrepeated for years.

sherlock

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#235 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 04:52:55 pm
Think Dan's been trying it off and on for 11 years. Amazing persistence. Expect we'll be waiting just as long (or forever?) for a repeat. I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.
Nice one Dan, was great to hear you finally got it done! Excellent strike in a small connies window too  :2thumbsup:!

Fiend

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#236 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 07:25:30 pm
Great stuff.



Left of this. Rock aesthetics are pretty decent!

Duma

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#237 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 08:08:00 pm
Fuck me that looks amazing!

SA Chris

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#238 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 26, 2023, 10:00:19 pm
So psyched |Dan has done this.

OT but If it was closer, i would love to put some time in in The Mission (which Richie is on in that pic). I expect it would be more likely to go down to a steeling fingered mature gent than Malc's.

you can see there is quite a gap between the Mission and Malc's here. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_mission-102944#videos

Bonjoy

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#239 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 09:29:58 am
I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.
"The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top."

SA Chris

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#240 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 09:44:27 am
unless he's spragging quarks it's not hard.

GazM

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#241 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 10:38:03 am
"The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top."
Superb. Perhaps its actually good fodder for some Olympic style slab magician.
Where did that description come from? Pers. comm, or is there something juicy online?

Bonjoy

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#242 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 11:54:20 am
Pers comm. Dave say hi, from Ceuse etc...

teestub

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#243 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 12:38:57 pm
Amazing! Can’t be many harder things worldwide at this sort of angle? I have some vague recollections of hard face climb boulders in Japan maybe?

andy moles

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#244 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 12:43:44 pm
I was looking closely at this yesterday. It may be a slab, but it's like 89.9°. Unbelievably thin, I can't imagine adhering to it the whole way up. Then again, I can't get off the ground on The Mission. Stunning bit of rock. How do I share a photo?






Tom de Gay

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#245 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 01:22:55 pm
Amazing! Can’t be many harder things worldwide at this sort of angle? I have some vague recollections of hard face climb boulders in Japan maybe?
Kakusei is a true slab at Ogawayama, graded 5-Dan, which is something like 8B+/8C.

The left hand exit that he runs a few laps on for a warm up is 8B! Also no pads, as per first ascent.

SA Chris

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#246 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 01:56:46 pm
I was looking closely at this yesterday. It may be a slab, but it's like 89.9°. Unbelievably thin, I can't imagine adhering to it the whole way up. Then again, I can't get off the ground on The Mission. Stunning bit of rock. How do I share a photo?

upload to IG and link.

cowboyhat

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#247 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 02:02:20 pm
Think Dan's been trying it off and on for 11 years. Amazing persistence.

Presumably waiting for some chargers to be installed en route

remus

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#248 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 02:23:17 pm
Kakusei is a true slab at Ogawayama, graded 5-Dan, which is something like 8B+/8C.

The left hand exit that he runs a few laps on for a warm up is 8B! Also no pads, as per first ascent.

That looks hardcore! When you said no pads I assumed the top wouldn't be mega thin and 15ft off the ground.

SA Chris

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#249 Re: Significant First Ascents
February 27, 2023, 02:33:22 pm
Fair enough, no pads as per FA, at least have a spotter. Couldn't believe height when they changed views.

 

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