[Duma]

Ondras new thing is a link too?

[Kingy]

oh yes so it is! guess that theorys out the window...

[remus]

I think it's just because Ondra and Stefano have a bigger media presence. Ondra in particular has a pretty impressive squad who work with him by the sounds of it. Jorge's one man IG account is the dark horse of pro climbers!

[andy moles]

This was interesting to me at least, just noticed that Dan Varian has done the project wall left of The Mission in Torridon this month, which I believe he's been trying on and off for many years:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_magna_strata-679930

[lukeyboy]

This was interesting to me at least, just noticed that Dan Varian has done the project wall left of The Mission in Torridon this month, which I believe he's been trying on and off for many years:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_magna_strata-679930

Brilliant, thanks for sharing. Looks to me like it goes up the middle of the rippled face to the R of Malcs Arete. From the road you'd expect a route up that face to be about 5+, amazing that it's so hard but still possible. It's a lovely bit of rock.

[scragrock]

This was interesting to me at least, just noticed that Dan Varian has done the project wall left of The Mission in Torridon this month, which I believe he's been trying on and off for many years:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_magna_strata-679930

Yup, i confirm its been years in the making. i had a conversation with Dan as he was working/cleaning it on a rope some years back, he thought it was hard, then popped a crucial pebble and suspected it might not go.
I would appear that it does go
Great effort Dan and a fine addition to Torridon.

[remus]

Quality name game too.

[Bradders]

Really flipping cool.

[GazM]

Think Dan's been trying it off and on for 11 years. Amazing persistence. Expect we'll be waiting just as long (or forever?) for a repeat. I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.

[remus]

Expect we'll be waiting just as long (or forever?) for a repeat. I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.

Dunno, having 2 or 3 grades in hand can make up for quite a lot. Hopefully it doesn't linger unrepeated for years.

[sherlock]

Think Dan's been trying it off and on for 11 years. Amazing persistence. Expect we'll be waiting just as long (or forever?) for a repeat. I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.

Nice one Dan, was great to hear you finally got it done! Excellent strike in a small connies window too  !

[Fiend]

Great stuff.



Left of this. Rock aesthetics are pretty decent!

[Duma]

Fuck me that looks amazing!

[SA Chris]

So psyched |Dan has done this.

OT but If it was closer, i would love to put some time in in The Mission (which Richie is on in that pic). I expect it would be more likely to go down to a steeling fingered mature gent than Malc's.

you can see there is quite a gap between the Mission and Malc's here. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/torridon_celtic_jumble-2860/the_mission-102944#videos

[Bonjoy]

I don't know how it climbs but suspect it's the complete anti-style for most modern powerful boulderers.

"The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top."

[SA Chris]

unless he's spragging quarks it's not hard.

[GazM]

"The sequence now is crazy, I have to side crab and lower my hips, then grab a half a 5p pebble and get in balance to bump my rh across the slot into more of a crimp, then I can lock up to a higher pebble and whip over for a hold on the top."

Superb. Perhaps its actually good fodder for some Olympic style slab magician.
Where did that description come from? Pers. comm, or is there something juicy online?

[Bonjoy]

Pers comm. Dave say hi, from Ceuse etc...

[teestub]

Amazing! Can’t be many harder things worldwide at this sort of angle? I have some vague recollections of hard face climb boulders in Japan maybe?

[andy moles]

I was looking closely at this yesterday. It may be a slab, but it's like 89.9°. Unbelievably thin, I can't imagine adhering to it the whole way up. Then again, I can't get off the ground on The Mission. Stunning bit of rock. How do I share a photo?

[Tom de Gay]

Amazing! Can’t be many harder things worldwide at this sort of angle? I have some vague recollections of hard face climb boulders in Japan maybe?

Kakusei is a true slab at Ogawayama, graded 5-Dan, which is something like 8B+/8C.

The left hand exit that he runs a few laps on for a warm up is 8B! Also no pads, as per first ascent.

[SA Chris]

I was looking closely at this yesterday. It may be a slab, but it's like 89.9°. Unbelievably thin, I can't imagine adhering to it the whole way up. Then again, I can't get off the ground on The Mission. Stunning bit of rock. How do I share a photo?

upload to IG and link.

[cowboyhat]

Think Dan's been trying it off and on for 11 years. Amazing persistence.

Presumably waiting for some chargers to be installed en route

[remus]

Kakusei is a true slab at Ogawayama, graded 5-Dan, which is something like 8B+/8C.

The left hand exit that he runs a few laps on for a warm up is 8B! Also no pads, as per first ascent.

That looks hardcore! When you said no pads I assumed the top wouldn't be mega thin and 15ft off the ground.

[SA Chris]

Fair enough, no pads as per FA, at least have a spotter. Couldn't believe height when they changed views.