[rjtrials]

Not sure what she's fine on the boulders but she's sport climbed up to 8b+.

And E9. She's no slouch.

The 8b+ is often logged as 13c. There is v8ish climbing quite close to the ground, then it eases up.

The E9 is only 13a climbing though, right?

Not saying either ascent is not an amazing personal effort, but  people making a living from videos of repeats that aren't  actually hard often operate at the softest end of the scale possible.

[SA Chris]

Bumlog graphics aside, it's quite a good vid, just about 10 minutes too long. Wonder what the old bolt is from?

Glad to hear they are setting up a Patreon account though, I will definitely sign up*

* will I fuck

[andy popp]

This is getting pretty unseemly.

[User deactivated.]

people making a living from videos of repeats that aren't  actually hard often operate at the softest end of the scale possible.

'Influencers' have a paying audience (through advertising potential) by way of their relatability, rather than skill. They may well be skilled, but this isn't usually as important.

This isn't exclusively a 21st century phenomenon. In other lifestyle sports like skateboarding, BMX, etc. there have always been highly regarded participants with prestigious sponsorship deals that could never place well in a contest, but are characters with a unique way of expressing themselves.

[User deactivated.]

Was just wondering if anyone - not one of the grade sceptics for this one tho - would care to speculate on an old skool E grade for an old skool beer towel onsight for this one??

The Prow is 8A and E9?

[Bradders]

Not sure what she's fine on the boulders but she's sport climbed up to 8b+.

And E9. She's no slouch.

The 8b+ is often logged as 13c. There is v8ish climbing quite close to the ground, then it eases up.

The E9 is only 13a climbing though, right?

Not saying either ascent is not an amazing personal effort, but  people making a living from videos of repeats that aren't  actually hard often operate at the softest end of the scale possible.

Oh right, yeah, sorry I'd forgotten E9 is easy.

[abarro81]

His point is not that E9 is easy, it's that in some circumstances it's physically easy enough so as to not tell you that much about someone's ability to
1. Climb 8A or
2. Tell 8A from 7C
Both of which are true.
[caveat, I have only read the thread, I refuse to watch videos like that unless strictly necessary for giving people shit]

[abarro81]

This is getting pretty unseemly.

I disagree, if you're going to play the game with social media you can't expect people not to share their views.

[Bradders]

His point is not that E9 is easy, it's that in some circumstances it's physically easy enough so as to not tell you that much about someone's ability to
1. Climb 8A or
2. Tell 8A from 7C
Both of which are true.
[caveat, I have only read the thread, I refuse to watch videos like that unless strictly necessary for giving people shit]

I know, I'm being facetious because I knew there'd be this kind of reaction to mentioning it here.

[andy popp]

This is getting pretty unseemly.

I disagree, if you're going to play the game with social media you can't expect people not to share their views.

Fair enough, of course (that you disagree). I just don't think it's a good look to have so quickly slid from taking the mick out of a pretty terrible video to doubting the climber's ability, on the basis of very little at all from what I can see.

[User deactivated.]

No one is saying anything bad about Anna or her climbing ability. If Daniel Woods were to put up a 9c route tomorrow, I'd give him the benefit of the doubt, but I'd have asked the same question - what's he done in this style before? Now I've learnt about Anna's documented hard ascents in other styles, I give her the benefit of the doubt too. E9 and 8b+ seem way harder than f8A to me anyway!

[yetix]

On a old YouTube video she says how she did 7c+ in a few goes in Bishop. (I'm not sure which my gf showed it me a long time ago with regards to boulder grades being sexist - but that's a diff topic entirely)

She was also close on rh of darkness I believe recently here in MW, not sure if she did it in the end (completely diff style though).

Also the FA of the slab was done off a rope apparently? But got a boulder grade? There's rumours it was done since above pads, but no confirmation? If that's the case she got the FA? So can propose what she wants? (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong and someone has actually done it above pads first)

There's been a bunch of men trying (off a rope) and failing since she did it and proposing the grade. I've seen 2 people anyhow in a couple of days and hadn't seen anyone else on it in the weeks before.

[lukeyboy]

From my armchair, she appears to be a climber that excels at a particular style (necky vert/slab on micro holds) and this fits that perfectly. She also has form of seemingly huge leaps from previous performance (e.g. OUATITSW). Given her sport and trad ascents, this seems credible.

I also think it's completely fair to ask the question, which is all that anyone has done - no one has made any claims about foul play.

I should also add that I refuse to watch that tottering turd of clickbait.

[Teaboy]

There’a a video of her doing Sway on in a session here:

[Andy W]

There’a a video of her doing Sway on in a session here:

She doesn’t do it though, she misses out the first move which is the hard one.

[Teaboy]

Ah, right you are. I had a quick scroll through to check it was Sway on she was on but didn’t twig that she didn’t do the start.

[36chambers]

She doesn’t do it though, she misses out the first move which is the hard one.

I actually thought kodus if she did the second move on that, that's still pretty nails. But nope, she skips that one too. So just the end, after all the hard climbing is over.

[CapitalistPunter]

The last move is given 7A and it's soft at that.

[Andy W]

Regeneration, is a sit start as well isn’t it?

[abarro81]

  As per Andy's Q, does Regeneration really start from a crouch like that? I remember trying from a sit and failing, but assumed that was my shitness not it being a crouch start?

[Andy W]

As per Andy's Q, does Regeneration really start from a crouch like that? I remember trying from a sit and failing, but assumed that was my shitness not it being a crouch start?

It’s a sit, I was just being polite 

[AMorris]

Regeneration is certainly a sitter, and hauling off the deck to snatch into the holds is probably the hardest move because of lack of feet. After that pretty steady. There is a good (and soft, which is nice) left hand extension which traverses into the last move of Sway on too. Had a play on Sway On when I was there and the first move is desperate, second tricky, the rest 6C ish iirc (not that I can climb even 6C nowdays, gotta love PIP synovitis...)

[Ross Barker]

Looks like they didn't even start The Ramp from the bottom of the ramp either!

[Wood FT]

They looked like they had a nice day out. I'm jealous.

[andy moles]

They looked like they had a nice day out. I'm jealous.

Back yourself G, it's totally achievable.