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Significant First Ascents (Read 190391 times)

Wood FT

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#100 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 07, 2022, 09:25:14 pm
Hardest route at the cornice?

I've never tried Somehow Super (has anyone other than Ste?) but it definitely felt harder for me than Dreadnaught. Someone said Felix did the proj out of Powerplant the other day too, not sure how hard that is...

Whoa whoa, hold up, verify this please

abarro81

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#101 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 07, 2022, 09:56:24 pm
I have no verification, just what I was told at the crag yesterday...

Ru

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#102 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 07, 2022, 10:04:11 pm
Hardest route at the cornice?

I've never tried Somehow Super (has anyone other than Ste?) but it definitely felt harder for me than Dreadnaught. Someone said Felix did the proj out of Powerplant the other day too, not sure how hard that is...

Whoa whoa, hold up, verify this please

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/chee_dale_lower-10866/six_dinner_sid-664915

Wood FT

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#103 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 08, 2022, 08:48:54 am
Hardest route at the cornice?

I've never tried Somehow Super (has anyone other than Ste?) but it definitely felt harder for me than Dreadnaught. Someone said Felix did the proj out of Powerplant the other day too, not sure how hard that is...

Whoa whoa, hold up, verify this please

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/chee_dale_lower-10866/six_dinner_sid-664915

Waddage.

Blimey, that kid is so low-key. Makes everyone else seem like Michael Reardon.


spidermonkey09

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#104 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 08, 2022, 09:31:43 am
Thats great. Been a project for so long, and in such a central bit of the crag.

abarro81

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#105 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 08, 2022, 11:46:45 am
Good spot Ru. Low-key indeed!

James Malloch

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#106 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 19, 2022, 07:05:20 pm
Shawn Raboutou has proposed a 9A Boulder called Alphane.

Video out on Monday according to his Instagram post: https://www.instagram.com/p/ChczmRCDDdi/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

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#107 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 19, 2022, 09:01:42 pm
9A!

9s coming thick and fast  :2thumbsup:

Bradders

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Bradders

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#109 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 24, 2022, 06:50:40 pm
I think this is quite significant:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Chk6GYzvJmf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Decent video on YouTube about it too. Sounds like it hasn't ever been done before other than on top rope, which of course means it hadn't really been done at all prior to Anna's ascent. Considering it's slap bang in the middle of Magic Wood that's quite something!

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#110 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 24, 2022, 06:59:24 pm


"DANGEROUS climb on microscopic holds"  :-\

"SO I FELL OFF FROM THE HIGHEST I'D FALL FROM AND I WAS TOTALLY FINE climb on microscopic holds"  :yes:

Thankfully the climbing and ascent looks of a lot better quality than the clickbaitness. Good effort, some proper ratty vert there.

Bradders

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#111 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 24, 2022, 07:23:07 pm
Haha yes, ignore the clickbait and appreciate the achievement.

Carliios

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#112 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 25, 2022, 02:39:00 pm
My favourite bit is where they call it a ground up free solo  :lol:

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#113 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 25, 2022, 03:43:04 pm
Yeah what the flaming fuckbollox was that all about?? I didn't know "ground up" was so obscure and hard to grasp.

But the climbing was great, the heel thing was funky, as was her epiphany about the finger positions. Significant quality problem for sure.

andy moles

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#114 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 25, 2022, 05:48:30 pm
I just can't swallow this sort of thing without choking on the clickbait.  :sick:

Wood FT

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#115 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 25, 2022, 06:57:41 pm
Not adding another view to that shite.

JamieG

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#116 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 25, 2022, 10:30:04 pm
Thatís a shame. Itís very impressive climbing by Anna on a very cool boulder. But the clickbait and even worse cheesy Ďriskí bar chart cheapen the whole thing. I wish they just stated it as it was: an impressive first ascent of a highball 8A slab/wall. Thatís worthy of the plaudits without the bumf surrounding it.

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#117 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 25, 2022, 11:18:19 pm
Hate to go full UKB, but does anyone know if she's climbed boulders close to this level before? I'd never heard of her but just had a quick flick through Anna's insta/youtube and can't see anything above f7B+. She's a very good climber judging by the hard trad ascents on established routes, so i'm sure she's capable, particularly in this style. Just thought it would be incredibly bold to upgrade something if she hadn't climbed around that level before! No negativity intended, it's a good looking problem and I do love a 2 finger full crimp!

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#118 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2022, 07:33:48 am
Not sure what she's fine on the boulders but she's sport climbed up to 8b+.

Carliios

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#119 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2022, 07:51:00 am
Iíd be interested to see how it compares to Duel in Font. Iíd say similar micro crimp tekkers, maybe not as bold but you donít get hard grades for scary climbs, at least not in the UK right?

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#120 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2022, 08:04:38 am
you donít get hard grades for scary climbs, at least not in the UK right?
You do - E grades  :2thumbsup:

Was just wondering if anyone - not one of the grade sceptics for this one tho - would care to speculate on an old skool E grade for an old skool beer towel onsight for this one??

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#121 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2022, 08:23:44 am
Not sure what she's fine on the boulders but she's sport climbed up to 8b+.

Call me a believer then.

SA Chris

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#122 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2022, 08:31:15 am
Not a trace of doubt in your mind?

Bradders

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#123 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2022, 08:32:17 am
Not sure what she's fine on the boulders but she's sport climbed up to 8b+.

And E9. She's no slouch.

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#124 Re: Significant First Ascents
August 26, 2022, 08:50:33 am
Not a trace of doubt in your mind?

When she needed sunshine, she got rain.

 

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