[Bradders]

To complement the significant repeats thread, where the new route / problem isn't significant enough to deserve its own thread.

[Fiend]

Has Caff done anything recently??

[remus]

New one from Solly Kembal Dory called Megalodon (at Heartland quay?) He's suggested 8B+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Ce3qT9Nj0fc/

[Bradders]

Feel like this should go in here. Sounds like DG had a monster season in Switzerland and capped off nicely.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cey5A2EDtid/

[BrutusTheBear]

New one from Solly Kembal Dory called Megalodon (at Heartland quay?) He's suggested 8B+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Ce3qT9Nj0fc/

  It’s in the roof right next to the sadly no longer existing Ache Ball.  Hartland Quay.  A venue with a whole lot of quality 8+ boulders.

[Duma]

Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?

[remus]

Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?

I think Squire's thing is more in the roof proper (kinda to the left of kraken if you're looking in to the cave). I've not been though and this is all just based on IG pics so take it with a pinch of salt.

[BrutusTheBear]

Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?

Ache Ball died quite a long time ago, still gets logged on UKC every now and then though.  It should start on a double undercutty ish feature low on the arete making a hard move right hand into the crimp on the overhanging face.  This start has simply fallen off and therefore impossible.  It has also developed a big hold near the arete that makes it much easier to move to the 'jug' on the overhanging face.  People are starting right hand in the crimp and using the new extra hold (why wouldn't you), around 6b this way..the original 8a/7c+ problem is simply not possible anymore.

[BrutusTheBear]

The ever fluctuating beach levels can confuse things also.

JAWS Starts to the right of Acheball and goes out to the lip through the steep twin crackish feature above it, here's Solly on it, you can see his feet on the Acheball 'jug'.  https://www.instagram.com/reel/CewH4q0jh6r/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I think Megalodon shares the finish of Jaws but starts from a designated hold deeper in the cave.  I was there when Solly was trying it but wasn't really paying much attention to what he was doing, a ladder was required to access the moves that day...apparently at the moment you can reach everything off the ground (that could change overnight).

[andy moles]

Be cool if this thread was used not just for hard ascents but also new things of significant quality.

[remus]

Be cool if this thread was used not just for hard ascents but also new things of significant quality.

I'd be well psyched on that. I really like significant repeats as a place to hear about ascents that are interesting but a bit more niche so carrying that vibe over to hear would be mint.

[Bradders]

Be cool if this thread was used not just for hard ascents but also new things of significant quality.

Yep, use it for whatever you deem worthy; it's called significant first ascents not "hard first ascents" 

[CapitalistPunter]

Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?

Ache Ball died quite a long time ago, still gets logged on UKC every now and then though.  It should start on a double undercutty ish feature low on the arete making a hard move right hand into the crimp on the overhanging face.  This start has simply fallen off and therefore impossible.  It has also developed a big hold near the arete that makes it much easier to move to the 'jug' on the overhanging face.  People are starting right hand in the crimp and using the new extra hold (why wouldn't you), around 6b this way..the original 8a/7c+ problem is simply not possible anymore.

I climbed the low start of this back when I was just getting solid around the 7B mark. Not sure if it has deteriated even more since then, but its likely 7A+ 7B from where I started in this vid.

Its a big shame! The original movement looked brilliant

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEttXrYjbQa/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[Duma]

Squire has done his Hartland project at 8C, Paradise Found
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfUIeQUjC5q/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
He sounds pretty chuffed!

Maybe should get its own thread but had already been mentioned here.

[edshakey]

Not all significant FAs have to be hard, but hard ones are usually significant for at least that reason.

Nomura Shinichiro, Gakido, 8C+. Nice riverside setting too, looks beautiful. Never heard of the guy, one of many Japanese crushers.



Only 3 sessions too! Crazy quick to establish a boulder of that difficulty. I wonder how fast he's managed other things, must be tearing it up in Japan.

[Bradders]

Whilst we're on very hard new things, Matt Fultz has put up a new 8C+, which to me just looks to be a "big grades for bad beta" version of Jade. Significant though since those are some very small grips for a big chap.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CfUxqupPIH9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Note: watching with the sound on could easily be misconstrued as a bit NSFW...

[JamieG]

Whilst we're on very hard new things, Matt Fultz has put up a new 8C+, which to me just looks to be a "big grades for bad beta" version of Jade. Significant though since those are some very small grips for a big chap.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CfUxqupPIH9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Note: watching with the sound on could easily be misconstrued as a bit NSFW...

Haha, "smooth and strong, baby!" I think I need a cold shower!

[remus]

Whilst we're on very hard new things, Matt Fultz has put up a new 8C+, which to me just looks to be a "big grades for bad beta" version of Jade. Significant though since those are some very small grips for a big chap.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CfUxqupPIH9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Note: watching with the sound on could easily be misconstrued as a bit NSFW...

That'd be right at home at the tor.

[abarro81]

That'd be right at home at the tor.

Powerband into Generation Game but for the V16 climber... Or a mirror image of James' King of Griff's link

[User deactivated.]

Not all significant FAs have to be hard, but hard ones are usually significant for at least that reason.

Nomura Shinichiro, Gakido, 8C+. Nice riverside setting too, looks beautiful. Never heard of the guy, one of many Japanese crushers.



Only 3 sessions too! Crazy quick to establish a boulder of that difficulty. I wonder how fast he's managed other things, must be tearing it up in Japan.

I love the purity of this one, it reminds me of Burden of dreams! I wonder if there's a possible sit / lower start.

[abarro81]

-

[Ross Barker]

New E9 up in Scotland from Mat Wright, looks pretty tasty!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf6pSNIDtxf/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[CapitalistPunter]

New E9 up in Scotland from Mat Wright, looks pretty tasty!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cf6pSNIDtxf/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Good stuff! Hopefully its not already in a guide

[Fultonius]

I wonder where it is in relation to Iain's route?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/reiff_in_the_woods-3969/find_meat_on_bones-551293

Hard to find info for a lot of stuff up in the NW!

[andy moles]

He did a new E7/8 at Reiff recently as well.