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Significant First Ascents (Read 202787 times)

sirlockoff

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#525 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 22, 2024, 08:49:03 pm
also da fuck is starting boulders from standing on someone's shoulders? this opens up a lot of new climbs in the Peak  :popcorn:

Stu Littlefair

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#526 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 22, 2024, 09:10:13 pm
That’s just a Mike Adams “sit start”, no?

teestub

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#527 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 22, 2024, 09:15:54 pm
also da fuck is starting boulders from standing on someone's shoulders? this opens up a lot of new climbs in the Peak

Prior to the tough start off the deck being added, Cocoa Team Special at Rylstone had a similar first ascent in ‘84, inspired by the Czech sandstone human pyramid action https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rylstone-548/the_cocoa_team_special-363047

https://www.emontana-magazine.com/human-pyramids-sandstone/




SA Chris

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#528 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 23, 2024, 11:14:30 am
Also doesn't Bishop look like a stunning place (for those like me who've not been).

The whole Eastern Sierras are amazing. Great boudering, sport, trad, big mountains, ice, plus easy access to ski resorts and backcountry, as well as natural hot springs, great hiking, ghost towns, Mono Lake, etc etc. Definitely worth a visit.

Will Hunt

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#529 Re: Significant First Ascents
May 23, 2024, 11:17:53 am
also da fuck is starting boulders from standing on someone's shoulders? this opens up a lot of new climbs in the Peak  :popcorn:

This has since been done properly. Outrageously they gave it a different name.

remus

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#530 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 03, 2024, 04:13:59 pm
Niky Ceria has made the first ascent of a problem he's called Pneuma (previously the Lahja Project, or 'gift' in Finnish).

No grade offered, but Nalle and Aidan Roberts have both put some time in to it so suspect it won't be easier than 8C. More importantly, what a good looking piece of rock!

https://www.instagram.com/p/C7wW7P4N_Ex/

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Bradders

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#532 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 06, 2024, 01:45:47 pm
El Mocho.

A rather dashing patterned shirt.

BIG Leviathian 8B

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C73ptwPtsEf/?igsh=MWpyY3B6YXRhbnBidw%3D%3D

https://www.instagram.com/ray_wood/p/C73w9B7NK1y/?img_index=1



Came here to post this, great stuff. Got to be one of the best hard problems in the UK. Also enjoyed the collapse into a heap at the end  :2thumbsup: :strongbench:

SA Chris

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#533 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 06, 2024, 01:54:36 pm
Should have called it My Amigo the Leviathan. Looks like a really cool bit of a climbing, and a strong look.

sirlockoff

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#534 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 06, 2024, 02:49:51 pm
uhoh bransby 8B, so... UK's second 9A?

spidermonkey09

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#535 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 06, 2024, 03:27:28 pm
I bet this gets more repeats than Lanny Bassham! Great effort Ben, what a feature.

duncan

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Fiend

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#537 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 06, 2024, 09:26:50 pm
I bet this gets more repeats than Lanny Bassham! Great effort Ben, what a feature.
Of course it will, it's got nowhere near the grim Rylstone walk-in  :smartass:

remus

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#538 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 07, 2024, 06:56:16 am
That looks well good, quality line and a cheeky kneebar at the end.

PeteHukb

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#539 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 08, 2024, 12:56:04 pm
By total coincidence, I just had a look at the UKC logbooks to decide whether an obscure little E4 at Ilkley would be a good choice for a ground-up solo effort. Single Solo O/S logged, and that user's most recent logged climb? Big Leviathan.

jwi

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#540 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 09, 2024, 04:13:26 pm
Tanguy Merad had a good couple of days on the 8th and 9th of April, establishing La cinquantaine éclatante 9a+, Brouncha 9a and then Hannigraal 9b at L’Abattoir near Grenoble.

https://planetgrimpe.com/incroyable-tanguy-merard-propose-hannigraal-9b-a-grenoble/

To improve search score: Tanguy Merard ;)

Video show-casing the routes here:


Duma

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#541 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 13, 2024, 06:10:05 pm
https://www.instagram.com/stories/jimpopeonarope/3389625855653612231?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igsh=MXdqcXZ4OGMxMTFnbA==

Can't remember/find where his repeat of Highball That You Bastards! was discussed a couple of weeks ago, but it looks from the IG story linked that Jim Pope has done new one under/left of that route (and HTYB got another repeat). Got to be hard, surely?

apologies if this isn't new, my kinder knowledge is extremely poor

remus

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#542 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 13, 2024, 06:21:38 pm
Good spot, fairly sure that's a new one.

Fiend

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#543 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 13, 2024, 06:29:22 pm
Looks like insta is now back to forcing a log-in to even view stuff again, so that can suck my ringer. Unlike any hard grit first ascents which are always welcome.

remus

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#544 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 13, 2024, 06:39:43 pm
For your viewing pleasure.


Fiend

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#545 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 13, 2024, 06:59:13 pm
Thank you. I thought that might just be bad beta for HTYB but then checked the video and it foot traverses onto the death flake so I guess not!

Duma

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#546 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 14, 2024, 05:51:45 pm
https://www.instagram.com/stories/jimpopeonarope/3389625855653612231?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igsh=MXdqcXZ4OGMxMTFnbA==

Can't remember/find where his repeat of Highball That You Bastards! was discussed a couple of weeks ago, but it looks from the IG story linked that Jim Pope has done new one under/left of that route (and HTYB got another repeat). Got to be hard, surely?

apologies if this isn't new, my kinder knowledge is extremely poor

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C8M82PMt6zi/?igsh=MXFza3c0cGsyYnpkNw==

Confirmed. Polar Front E9 6c

Tom de Gay

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#547 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 14, 2024, 05:54:43 pm
That flake has the structural integrity of filo pastry. It's a good effort finding a way through.

andy popp

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#548 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 15, 2024, 08:08:20 am
I love how the Peak's moorland crags are always just there, in the background, ready and waiting for the next fool (meant in the best possible way) to conceive a mad passion for them.

andy popp

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#549 Re: Significant First Ascents
June 15, 2024, 10:27:50 am
And bravo Jim!

 

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