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Significant First Ascents
lukeyboy:
--- Quote from: jwi on May 06, 2024, 04:18:13 pm ---Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.
Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard
HVS 7b?
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That looks terrifying!
remus:
Doesn't sound like a typical headpoint experience either.
--- Quote ---I knew I wasn’t ready. I estimated my chances of falling at around two out of three, which is not enough for a block of this type. Plus, even though I had unlocked the moves, I hadn't yet managed to rope from the ground. At the same time, I was also afraid of not finding the motivation to start the process from scratch next season. I had 20 crash pads and two good spotters with Fabien and Simon. We placed them at the foot of the boulder, and I told myself that a fall in the main crux would be scary but probably not dangerous in the event of a good save. As for recovery, I knew how to do it, I just had to trust myself. So I decided to give it a try.
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joe-m:
--- Quote from: jwi on May 06, 2024, 04:18:13 pm ---Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.
Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard
HVS 7b?
--- End quote ---
looks class, fair play that looks high!
jwi:
--- Quote from: remus on May 07, 2024, 07:47:14 am ---
--- Quote ---I knew I wasn’t ready. I estimated my chances of falling at around two out of three, which is not enough for a block of this type. Plus, even though I had unlocked the moves, I hadn't yet managed to link it on toprope. At the same time, I was also afraid of not finding the motivation to start the process from scratch next season. I had 20 crash pads and two good spotters with Fabien and Simon. We placed them at the foot of the boulder, and I told myself that a fall in the main crux would be scary but probably not dangerous in the event of a good save. As for the mantel, I knew how to do it, I just had to trust myself. So I decided to give it a try.
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Very lightly edited because current LLMs don't recognise climbing context.
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andy popp:
--- Quote from: Bradders on April 11, 2024, 09:51:33 am ---Keenan Takahashi has made the first ascent of The Gold Standard on the Golden Boulder in Bishop. This feels pretty significant; proper LGP stuff. The face was originally climbed by Sonnie Trotter and named Standing on the Shoulders of Giants, and so named because one literally had to stand on a partner's shoulders to reach the start holds. What a line!
https://www.instagram.com/p/C5loYhuJAz4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
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Now with particularly nice film:
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