[Fiend]

Didier Berthod is back in the game! FA of  a line he's called The Crack of Destiny on the Squamish chief. 5.14 and harder than cobra apparently.

Wow hadn't heard this. Googling unearthed this pretty interesting piece on him from last year:

https://english.elpais.com/sports/2022-11-15/didier-berthod-from-rock-climbing-star-to-monk-and-back-again.html

Good little read that!

[SA Chris]

https://gripped.com/news/didier-berthod-frees-new-squamish-5-14-trad/?utm_source=flipboard&utm_content=topic%2Fclimbing

hard to see where the route goes.

[lukeyboy]

Didier Berthod is back in the game! FA of  a line he's called The Crack of Destiny on the Squamish chief. 5.14 and harder than cobra apparently.

Wow hadn't heard this. Googling unearthed this pretty interesting piece on him from last year:

https://english.elpais.com/sports/2022-11-15/didier-berthod-from-rock-climbing-star-to-monk-and-back-again.html

Really interesting, thanks

[Kingy]

Jana Švecová Nova 8B+ (Holstejn crag at Moravsky Kras in Czech Republic).

A kind of half way house to the full Terra Nova 8C+ by Adam Ondra (her next goal).

[Bradders]

Jana Švecová Nova 8B+ (Holstejn crag at Moravsky Kras in Czech Republic).

A kind of half way house to the full Terra Nova 8C+ by Adam Ondra (her next goal).

Had thought of mentioning this. Totally, totally different beta to Ondra. Looks absolutely nails.

Weird to describe it as an FA though.

[remus]

Weird to describe it as an FA though.

It is a bit raven tor-esque, but as I understand it it does add a couple of sit moves that aren't part of Terranova, so it's not quite a case of pulling on in the middle of an existing problem and calling it an FA.

[Dingdong]

Jana Švecová Nova 8B+ (Holstejn crag at Moravsky Kras in Czech Republic).

A kind of half way house to the full Terra Nova 8C+ by Adam Ondra (her next goal).

Had thought of mentioning this. Totally, totally different beta to Ondra. Looks absolutely nails.

Weird to describe it as an FA though.

Luckily she didn’t campus any of the moves 

[remus]

Mat Wright has added a new line up at Pavey Ark. Looks like it takes the wall between Lexicon and Six Pence (I don't know the crag so just going off pics) https://www.instagram.com/p/CurHEmqNVro/?img_index=1

Mat said it was very bold, and based on the pic it looks like it might have gear in the same break as Lexicon but keep going to a higher bit of the crag?

No name or grade yet.

[lukeyboy]

Very cool!

... same break as Lexicon but keep going to a higher bit of the crag?

No name or grade yet.

Hopefully a less shit one 

[Adam Lincoln]

Thats Charlie woodburns old project. So must have been bold and hard!

[36chambers]

Very cool!

... same break as Lexicon but keep going to a higher bit of the crag?

No name or grade yet.

Hopefully a less shit one 

Suprême Lexicon

[Tony]

Looks like it takes the wall between Lexicon and Six Pence

That really would be finding another dimension in the wall given how close Lexicon and Sixpence are:
https://www.frcc.co.uk/routes/lexicon/

[Adam Lincoln]

Looks like it takes the wall between Lexicon and Six Pence

That really would be finding another dimension in the wall given how close Lexicon and Sixpence are:
https://www.frcc.co.uk/routes/lexicon/

Its an obvious gap and proper line.

[El Mocho]

Is it the wall to the right of Sixpence rather than between Sixpence and Lexicon?

[csl]

Is it the wall to the right of Sixpence rather than between Sixpence and Lexicon?

Looks like it to me, you can see the grassy ledge to the right of Mat in the link Tony S posted

[Will Hunt]

Is it the wall to the right of Sixpence rather than between Sixpence and Lexicon?

Looks like it to me, you can see the grassy ledge to the right of Mat in the link Tony S posted

Thank fuck. All I could think when I read the original description was that Lexicon was tight enough already.

[remus]

Whoops, sorry for the confusion. I assumed Six Pence went somewhere right of the grassy ledge, didn't realise it was so close to Lexicon.

[Tony]

Is it the wall to the right of Sixpence rather than between Sixpence and Lexicon?

Yes, mea culpa. I got my Sixpence and Impact Day mixed up. Sorry!

There’s a bit of space in there, not much of a line, except when chalked up, but that’s true of many of the routes on that wall. Still good routes.

[remus]

Mat Wright has added a new line up at Pavey Ark. Looks like it takes the wall between Lexicon and Six Pence (I don't know the crag so just going off pics) https://www.instagram.com/p/CurHEmqNVro/?img_index=1

Mat said it was very bold, and based on the pic it looks like it might have gear in the same break as Lexicon but keep going to a higher bit of the crag?

No name or grade yet.

Magical Thinking, E10 7a.

[remus]

Matt Helliker has added a new line to Doyden Point on the north Cornwall coast that he's called Anapanasati. He's suggested E9.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuzqslttiXk/

[lukeyboy]

Matt Helliker has added a new line to Doyden Point on the north Cornwall coast that he's called Anapanasati. He's suggested E9.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuzqslttiXk/

It sounds like all the options on a UKB poll rolled into one

[Nike Air]

 Quality comment

[jwi]

I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top

[remus]

I know nothing, but I do know that no 7c+ has a 7B boulder on top

 

[Fiend]

What does E-Grader (or logic) give for a Font 7B boulder problem with over 12m groundfall potential??

P.S. Lovely coastline / climbing around there and great to see exciting and dubiously graded developments!