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Significant First Ascents (Read 120507 times)

Scouse D

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#275 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 11:22:48 am




Quote


 we crafted a solid log platform


[/quote]

Always climb better after one of those

teestub

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#276 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 11:42:30 am
On a point of order, I don't think that's a 5 star line (assuming 5 is the max score). It's a cool wall but it's basically a 2-number-grades-harder Manson's Wall. On the same bit of rock, the groove/ramp to the right is the better line.

The fuck are you talking about? Are you saying a climb up a blank wall can’t be 5*?

SA Chris

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#277 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 11:59:57 am
Nice armchair Will.

abarro81

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#278 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 12:10:54 pm
I think this might be a misunderstanding between "an x star line" and "an x star problem"? With line and problem maybe having been used interchangeably in teestub's original post?

teestub

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#279 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 12:18:54 pm
I think this might be a misunderstanding between "an x star line" and "an x star problem"? With line and problem maybe having been used interchangeably in teestub's original post?

Yes, feel free to replace ‘line’ with ‘problem’ (or bloc 🤮) in first post. But I also stand by the second post, Freak Brothers and Amandla being two examples that spring to mind.

Will Hunt

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#280 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 12:52:14 pm
For sure, if this were written up in the UK you'd likely give it 3 stars. But if we're talking lines and rating out of 5 then probably not so much. Best line of crimps on a leaning wall that springs to mind is The Lash - the diagonal striations naturally drawing the eye/climber upwards: beauty.

Please accept two further bicep emojis by way of apology.
 :strongbench: :strongbench:

Dingdong

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#281 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 01:06:18 pm
I think this might be a misunderstanding between "an x star line" and "an x star problem"? With line and problem maybe having been used interchangeably in teestub's original post?

Yes, feel free to replace ‘line’ with ‘problem’ (or bloc 🤮) in first post. But I also stand by the second post, Freak Brothers and Amandla being two examples that spring to mind.

Alternatively: puzzle

Will Hunt

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#282 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 01, 2023, 03:45:56 pm
Photos and video here that show much better how steep it is:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CpOBuWzDz-E/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Caramba.

GazM

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#283 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 06:22:32 pm
Magna Strata news coming to ukc.
 https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2023/03/what_is_the_worlds_hardest_slab_boulder-73268

Did they just read this thread to write that article?

Kingy

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#284 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 06:35:11 pm
Yeah, looks like they're copying us!  :-\

Ross Barker

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#285 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 07:23:19 pm
On the topic of hard slabs, has anyone put time into Endless Nameless? Possibly at the risk of opening another Gaskins did-he-or-didn't-he discussion...

Kingy

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#286 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 08:19:13 pm
On the topic of hard slabs, has anyone put time into Endless Nameless? Possibly at the risk of opening another Gaskins did-he-or-didn't-he discussion...

I know Nik of this parish spent some time on it a while ago, which i remember reading about on a blog years ago. i stood under it last year and its filthy, would take a bit of effort to clean

Bradders

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#287 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 08:27:38 pm
On the topic of hard slabs, has anyone put time into Endless Nameless? Possibly at the risk of opening another Gaskins did-he-or-didn't-he discussion...

If I remember correctly Mike Adams has at least done all the moves.

Kingy

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#288 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 08:44:14 pm

I know Nik of this parish spent some time on it a while ago, which i remember reading about on a blog years ago.

Just remembered, the info I read is in an interview with Nik in the back of the Lancashire bouldering guide

r-man

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#289 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 10:45:48 pm
On the topic of hard slabs, has anyone put time into Endless Nameless? Possibly at the risk of opening another Gaskins did-he-or-didn't-he discussion...

If I remember correctly Mike Adams has at least done all the moves.

I don't think Mike has even tried it. He has done all the moves on Information Highway Revisited, the awesome arete in Montcliffe quarry. Gaskins gave that 7C+, Mike thought 8B.

r-man

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#290 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 03, 2023, 10:49:15 pm
On the topic of hard slabs, has anyone put time into Endless Nameless? Possibly at the risk of opening another Gaskins did-he-or-didn't-he discussion...

I know Nik of this parish spent some time on it a while ago, which i remember reading about on a blog years ago. i stood under it last year and its filthy, would take a bit of effort to clean

Yeah, though the line Nik worked is at the left end of the slab, whereas Endless Nameless goes up the middle.

andy moles

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#291 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 04, 2023, 06:57:32 am
Yeah, looks like they're copying us!  :-\

The cUKCoo effect.

Bradders

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#292 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 04, 2023, 07:03:16 am
On the topic of hard slabs, has anyone put time into Endless Nameless? Possibly at the risk of opening another Gaskins did-he-or-didn't-he discussion...

If I remember correctly Mike Adams has at least done all the moves.

I don't think Mike has even tried it. He has done all the moves on Information Highway Revisited, the awesome arete in Montcliffe quarry. Gaskins gave that 7C+, Mike thought 8B.

Ahhh that's what I was thinking of. Cheers.

Bradders

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#293 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 04, 2023, 09:57:04 am
This seems fairly significant to me; first ascent of the lower standing start to Imothep in Font, I.e. not stepping in off the boulder to the left. Sounds like good progress on the sit too!

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpIjBI4oEUn/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Moo

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#294 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 04, 2023, 10:52:13 pm
Wow that’s pretty cool, the sit has to be amongst the best projects in front.

remus

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#295 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 06, 2023, 10:34:38 pm
Looks like Orrin Coley did his multi year project at Forest Rock today to add Ultra Instinct 8C

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/forest_rock-1171/ultra_instinct-680703

Bradders

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#296 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 07, 2023, 06:26:46 am
Looks like Orrin Coley did his multi year project at Forest Rock today to add Ultra Instinct 8C

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/forest_rock-1171/ultra_instinct-680703

Ah that's ace, he's put so much time into that! Sit start still to go  ;D

Well done Orrin if you're reading  :strongbench:

sherlock

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#298 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 07, 2023, 09:39:34 am
That looks incredible. Hope theres some footage.

Duma

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#299 Re: Significant First Ascents
March 07, 2023, 09:48:27 am
what shoes is he wearing in those shots?

 

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