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Significant First Ascents (Read 259540 times)

sherlock

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#25 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 13, 2022, 09:25:02 am
I wonder where it is in relation to Iain's route?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/reiff_in_the_woods-3969/find_meat_on_bones-551293

Hard to find info for a lot of stuff up in the NW!
Different crag. Ossuary Block is on Reiff in the Woods side of the glen and Wicket Gate is over the road on the Stac Pollaidh side.

shark

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#26 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 11:45:48 am
I wonder where it is in relation to Iain's route?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/reiff_in_the_woods-3969/find_meat_on_bones-551293

Hard to find info for a lot of stuff up in the NW!
Different crag. Ossuary Block is on Reiff in the Woods side of the glen and Wicket Gate is over the road on the Stac Pollaidh side.

Any take on how good/hard/significant this is?

shark

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#27 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 12:54:13 pm
Got a message from Mat Wright. He says Robbie Phillips has been working this so he will no doubt comment on it in due course.
Mat says Robbie has found some placements that he’d written off as too poor to bother with.

sherlock

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#28 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 02:07:29 pm
I wonder where it is in relation to Iain's route?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/reiff_in_the_woods-3969/find_meat_on_bones-551293

Hard to find info for a lot of stuff up in the NW!
Different crag. Ossuary Block is on Reiff in the Woods side of the glen and Wicket Gate is over the road on the Stac Pollaidh side.

Any take on how good/hard/significant this is?
Sorry Shark, no idea but doubt Smally does soft touches!

andy moles

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#29 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 03:10:43 pm
If you mean the new route, it's on the same wall as an E6 from 2015 called Pine Martens with Guns, given two stars by Ian Taylor, who's probably better placed than most to judge relative quality in the northwest. So it must be a pretty good wall.

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#30 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 03:16:16 pm
The rock up there is amazing. Don't get there nearly often enough...

sherlock

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#31 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 03:22:11 pm
If you mean the new route, it's on the same wall as an E6 from 2015 called Pine Martens with Guns, given two stars by Ian Taylor, who's probably better placed than most to judge relative quality in the northwest. So it must be a pretty good wall.
Ah, sorry,I thought he meant Iain Small's route on the Ossuary Block.

Ian T

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#32 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 04:39:58 pm
I watched Robbie do it today. Not E9.

Will Hunt

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#33 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 05:17:54 pm
Is this Jeopardy or Live Fast that we're talking about?

GazM

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#34 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 05:25:34 pm
Live Fast. Ian was sending out live updates from the crag today. The Highlands scene has never known such excitement.

Although Robbie and Alex Moore repeated Jeopardy yesterday and thought more like E7 (according to his insta).

andy_e

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#35 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 06:40:07 pm
Robbie and Alex both found Jeopardy raiser and safer than Mat suggested, so it's no surprise that Robbie did Live Fast quickly. Did Alex do it too?

Cornish

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#36 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 14, 2022, 07:19:31 pm
Flashed it. Apparently Matt doesn’t own RPs, just imagine.

andy moles

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#37 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 10:01:26 am
Route to be renamed Place RPs, Live Longer

shark

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#38 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 12:14:39 pm
Write up from Robbie.

E7 with additional gear, probably E9 the way Mat did it

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgB87Ids5jH/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Robbie says there’ll be a video on Alex’s insta of his flash

Fiend

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#39 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 12:27:17 pm
How the fuck to people get to climbing E2 without RPs, let alone E7/9 or E11??  :blink:

shark

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#40 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 12:47:50 pm
Write up from Robbie.

E7 with additional gear, probably E9 the way Mat did it

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgB87Ids5jH/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Robbie says there’ll be a video on Alex’s insta of his flash

Mat has also posted. Implies that the additional cams Robbie placed are in an adjacent route and in his opinion off line.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgB8o2Qjd1E/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

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#41 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 01:07:20 pm
The world of first ascents is so interesting and there’s so many variables that when you’re putting up a line it’s so easy to have your blinkers on and not spot a sequence or gear placement that then gets the line downgraded, as long as you’re honest about it and adjust it that’s all gravy. All part of the learning experience. I don’t think there’s anyone here who’s put up an FA and not had someone downgrade it.

Good to see Mat speak openly about his thoughts too, could have just wiped the post but he stuck with it.

The route also looks great regardless of grade, a nice addition to the crag and the grade will settle (as it always does) with more ascents.

Fiend

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#42 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 01:12:43 pm
The world of first ascents is so interesting and there’s so many variables that when you’re putting up a line it’s so easy to have your blinkers on and not spot a sequence or gear placement that then gets the line downgraded, as long as you’re honest about it and adjust it that’s all gravy. All part of the learning experience.
It definitely is a prominent aspect of it. Whenever I've unearthed new stuff I've been very attentive to working out what is logical and what would make most sense to future ascentionists, what is the best way to describe a route, if there are any "rules" or options how valuable do they make it etc etc. Quite important when you're setting a path for others to follow, and not always easy to get the balance right.

Carliios

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#43 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 01:25:10 pm
The world of first ascents is so interesting and there’s so many variables that when you’re putting up a line it’s so easy to have your blinkers on and not spot a sequence or gear placement that then gets the line downgraded, as long as you’re honest about it and adjust it that’s all gravy. All part of the learning experience.
It definitely is a prominent aspect of it. Whenever I've unearthed new stuff I've been very attentive to working out what is logical and what would make most sense to future ascentionists, what is the best way to describe a route, if there are any "rules" or options how valuable do they make it etc etc. Quite important when you're setting a path for others to follow, and not always easy to get the balance right.

Yep, all very true. Despite spending time to work out best sequence I’ve had people who are a bit taller roll by and break my beta where I was unable too. These things happen. Good on Mat for speaking openly about it though and sharing his thoughts. Like I’ve said to him it’s all part and parcel of first ascents

remus

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#44 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 01:49:09 pm
There's a great story from one of the bleausards (Jacky Godoffe?): he spent a couple of days working on a techy new ~7C and was very proud to tell his mates about his new discovery, so they could go and try it out for themselves. Of course the second ascensionist then did a 6C dyno past all the hard climbing!

Bonjoy

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#45 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 15, 2022, 04:32:10 pm
I usually make the point in regards to boulder problems, but it seems applicable here too. It's makes sense to state what parameters a grade  is based on, even if you personally think it's obvious/self-evident, and even if it makes the climb look/sound like an eliminate. Revealing unspoken/unwritten rules after they're broken is suboptimal. I've been caught out by this a few times.
« Last Edit: July 15, 2022, 04:43:52 pm by Bonjoy »

scragrock

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#46 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 16, 2022, 09:32:20 am
Coming soon :2thumbsup:

Lots of F.A nonsense on the horizon from an up and coming edition of the Gneiss Times re Robbie Phillips{Captain America} and his Avengers End Game crew that recently hit the Highlands with predictable results despite the summer heat.


SA Chris

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#47 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 18, 2022, 02:27:16 pm
even if you personally think it's obvious/self-evident, and even if it makes the climb look/sound like an eliminate. Revealing unspoken/unwritten rules after they're broken is suboptimal. I've been caught out by this a few times.

This is so true. assume LCD and work backwards. "you sure you aren't supposed to reach across and use that? It's going to be a hard move if you don't " Duh.

yetix

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#48 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 20, 2022, 10:26:46 pm
Shawn R has done the story of 3 worlds 8c+,assuming a low start to 2 worlds?

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#49 Re: Significant First Ascents
July 20, 2022, 10:42:59 pm
Looks to be that, definitely finishes up SOTW. This seems to be one of the 'secret' ascents, hopefully more footage will be coming out soon.

Video description says he did it twice cos he dabbed the tree - interesting that picking up a chalk bag from the floor is fair game  ;)

Vid link

 

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