[teestub]

This vid from the FA of the higher start shows what looks to be a glorious pinch hold

[casa]

Was there climbing in that Panton vid? i spent most of the vid watching the dog

[Duma]

Seb has done the FA of the direct start to Jumbo Love, adds 20 m of 9a before the crux of the original: Supréme Jumbo Love 9b+, 70m, and hardest route in the Americas

https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgdJYfpHDO/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[jwi]

Very cool. Seb Bouin really does everything he tries now, doesn't he?

Deeply disappointed that he did not grade it 9b/b+. I feel almost betrayed.

The Darth Grader calculator says 9b+ though.

[Fultonius]

Seb has done the FA of the direct start to Jumbo Love, adds 20 m of 9a before the crux of the original: Supréme Jumbo Love 9b+, 70m, and hardest route in the Americas

https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgdJYfpHDO/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Surely Jumbo Lover was THE name do it? Or Mumbo Jumbo....

[SA Chris]

The Darth Grader calculator says 9b+ though.

All hail Darth.

Skinny Love?

[Fiend]

Very cool. Seb Bouin really does everything he tries now, doesn't he?

Deeply disappointed that he did not grade it 9b/b+. I feel almost betrayed.

The Darth Grader calculator says 9b+ though.

9b/c??

Mumbo Jumbo would be better.

Good effort.

[jwi]

More importantly, will the French spelling of Suprême stand? I see that the route is reported as being named “Suprême Jumbo Love” in all online media, but surely that is just copy-paste? Or is suprême referring to the sauce?

[mrjonathanr]

I can see a tie-in with Bouin’s cooking sauces and condiments working nicely here. Saussois Sauce, Buoux Béchamel, Verdon Velouté… it worked for Paul Newman 
Pity he missed the obvious name Jambalaya.

[jwi]

This is a good occasion to re watch the uncut ascent of Jumbo Love by Ethan Pringle



(I found the reel rock segment of the same footage almost unwatchable, but you can find it on Rouge Bêtise TV)

[jwi]

About a month ago Lucien Martinez did the first re-ascent of Chicken Deluxe since it lost 17 sika-holds in a tragic accident. Significant for me as I belayed on it quite a bit as I have tried one of the easy routes at Super Manjoc all autumn without success. Also clearly the hardest route in the South-West of France. And obviously 9b, but Lucien took 9a+ for it.

Long interview here https://fanatic-climbing.com/lucien-martinez-propose-chicken-deluxe-9a-lucien-martinez-frees-chicken-deluxe-9a/

Super-manjoc now has four nines side by side and one more a few routes to the left. There are a few more routes in the 9th grade some 100 m down along the cliff band, so plenty to go at for strong climbers who likes steep physical climbing.

[Duma]

Excellent interview, thanks for the link Jonas

[edshakey]

New 8C+ for Drew Ruana, linking 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+



Not the most aesthetic, and with a pretty disappointing finish, but clearly hard.

Much more interestingly, that is his 99th 8B+ or higher this year. Absolutely incredible volume of top end climbing - is there anyone else doing this?

[SA Chris]

https://www.climbing.com/people/drew-ruana-colorado-bouldering-interview/

While studying full-time? Impressive

[MischaHY]

New 8C+ for Drew Ruana, linking 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+



Not the most aesthetic, and with a pretty disappointing finish, but clearly hard.

Much more interestingly, that is his 99th 8B+ or higher this year. Absolutely incredible volume of top end climbing - is there anyone else doing this?

YOU'RE PSYCHED DOG. YES DREWDOG PSYCHE WOO 

Gotta love it tho aintcha

[edshakey]

YOU'RE PSYCHED DOG. YES DREWDOG PSYCHE WOO 

Gotta love it tho aintcha

COME ON BEAST, GET THIS MOVE BRO

Can somebody invest some time in getting a study done on whether being referred to as "beast" does in fact make you a beast? It'd be a shame to miss out on all that untapped strength that the Americans are clearly using!

[Wellsy]

New 8C+ for Drew Ruana, linking 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+



Not the most aesthetic, and with a pretty disappointing finish, but clearly hard.

Much more interestingly, that is his 99th 8B+ or higher this year. Absolutely incredible volume of top end climbing - is there anyone else doing this?

That is a route, you can't fool me!

What does 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+ give as a sport grade?

[edshakey]

That is a route, you can't fool me!

What does 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+ give as a sport grade?

Not sure on rests, but he doesn't really rest until the point which I assume is between the final 2 boulders?

Harshest is
8A - good - 8B+ - good - 8A/+ = soft 9b+

Kindest is
8A - none - 8B+ - none - 8A/+ = 9c

A reasonable middle ground that seems to reflect his ascent?
8A - bad - 8B+ - medium - 8A/+ = hard 9b+

If we accept Darth grader's calculations, it's at least a solid 9b+, maybe a /c too.

[remus]

Much more interestingly, that is his 99th 8B+ or higher this year. Absolutely incredible volume of top end climbing - is there anyone else doing this?

JackPal is on >100 8th grade problems in the UK this year. Need to get him to up his game for next year.

On the darth grader maths, there's an added rope faff factor so you can take a bit of the suggested grade.

[Bradders]

Not a repeat, but Jakob sounds odds on to do Alphane in January, further cementing its position as the Keen Roof of 9A.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CmephvEDPw3/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[Fiend]

Pretty sure that would be a repeat

[jwi]

On the darth grader maths, there's an added rope faff factor so you can take a bit of the suggested grade.

This is pretty much how I understood Fountainbleau traverse grades: long 7b boulder ~ 7c traverse ~ 8a route.

Good climbers rarely toprope entire routes, but if they did they would know that climbing an 8b on a clean toprope without clipping or unclipping anything feels about 8a. (This style is called "try-or-fly" by a local enthusiast who likes to toprope wildly overhanging routes and taking absolutely huge swings when falling.)

[lukeyboy]

New 8C+ for Drew Ruana, linking 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+



Not the most aesthetic, and with a pretty disappointing finish, but clearly hard.

Much more interestingly, that is his 99th 8B+ or higher this year. Absolutely incredible volume of top end climbing - is there anyone else doing this?

That is a route, you can't fool me!

What does 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+ give as a sport grade?

This looks hard and shit, in equal measure.

[owensum]

New 8C+ for Drew Ruana, linking 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+



Not the most aesthetic, and with a pretty disappointing finish, but clearly hard.

Much more interestingly, that is his 99th 8B+ or higher this year. Absolutely incredible volume of top end climbing - is there anyone else doing this?

That is a route, you can't fool me!

What does 8A into 8B+ into 8A/+ give as a sport grade?

This looks hard and shit, in equal measure.

yeah he's up there with ondra for this type of climb

[SA Chris]

I'd have appreciated a spot rather than shouting. Looks hard.