the shizzle > news
Significant First Ascents
remus:
--- Quote from: andy moles on June 17, 2022, 10:17:04 am ---Be cool if this thread was used not just for hard ascents but also new things of significant quality.
--- End quote ---
I'd be well psyched on that. I really like significant repeats as a place to hear about ascents that are interesting but a bit more niche so carrying that vibe over to hear would be mint.
Bradders:
--- Quote from: andy moles on June 17, 2022, 10:17:04 am ---Be cool if this thread was used not just for hard ascents but also new things of significant quality.
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Yep, use it for whatever you deem worthy; it's called significant first ascents not "hard first ascents" ;)
CapitalistPunter:
--- Quote from: BrutusTheBear on June 17, 2022, 08:58:30 am ---
--- Quote from: Duma on June 17, 2022, 08:36:20 am ---Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?
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Ache Ball died :wavecry: quite a long time ago, still gets logged on UKC every now and then though. It should start on a double undercutty ish feature low on the arete making a hard move right hand into the crimp on the overhanging face. This start has simply fallen off and therefore impossible. It has also developed a big hold near the arete that makes it much easier to move to the 'jug' on the overhanging face. People are starting right hand in the crimp and using the new extra hold (why wouldn't you), around 6b this way..the original 8a/7c+ problem is simply not possible anymore.
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I climbed the low start of this back when I was just getting solid around the 7B mark. Not sure if it has deteriated even more since then, but its likely 7A+ 7B from where I started in this vid.
Its a big shame! The original movement looked brilliant
https://www.instagram.com/p/CEttXrYjbQa/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Duma:
Squire has done his Hartland project at 8C, Paradise Found
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfUIeQUjC5q/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
He sounds pretty chuffed!
Maybe should get its own thread but had already been mentioned here.
edshakey:
Not all significant FAs have to be hard, but hard ones are usually significant for at least that reason.
Nomura Shinichiro, Gakido, 8C+. Nice riverside setting too, looks beautiful. Never heard of the guy, one of many Japanese crushers.
Only 3 sessions too! Crazy quick to establish a boulder of that difficulty. I wonder how fast he's managed other things, must be tearing it up in Japan.
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