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New 9A on the block? (Read 30161 times)

36chambers

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#100 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 29, 2022, 05:00:29 pm
A short interview with Simon Lorenzi about his recent attempts on Alphane https://planetgrimpe.com/simon-lorenzi-est-alle-essayer-alphane-le-nouveau-9a-bloc-et-nous-en-parle/

I found this (google translated) statement quite interesting

Quote
In terms of level, I'm pretty sure 'Alphane' isn't any harder than 'Suddenly Alone' given the progress and connections I've made in bouldering in this heat. The only way to be sure will be to try in good conditions, because it's impossible to know how different the bouldering will be with 15°C less.

I've seen a few places disregard Soudain Seul as a possible 9A, stating Alphane as the 3rd (after BOD and ROTSW). It would be cool if Simon did go back and manage a reasonably swift repeat of Alphane.

owensum

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#101 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 29, 2022, 10:05:47 pm

I've seen a few places disregard Soudain Seul as a possible 9A, stating Alphane as the 3rd (after BOD and ROTSW). It would be cool if Simon did go back and manage a reasonably swift repeat of Alphane.
[/quote]

Given the access and Lorenzi's/Robert's apparent progress, my money is on Alphane being repeated before the end of the year.

moose

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#102 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 29, 2022, 10:33:35 pm
Given the access and Lorenzi's/Robert's apparent progress, my money is on Alphane being repeated before the end of the year.

I suspect you're correct, but "apparent progress" can be misleading - especially with power-stamina routes and problems.  Obviously there are levels to this kind of stuff, but I have direct and indirect experience of finding all the moves easy but then spending months falling from "easy" ground.

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#103 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 29, 2022, 11:30:46 pm
Didn't Shawn have all of the moves after only a few sessions as well? 

remus

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#104 Re: New 9A on the block?
September 27, 2022, 05:34:02 pm
Looks like Bosi is planning on spending some time on Alphane https://www.instagram.com/p/CjA72UCDBSv/

spalmer

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#105 Re: New 9A on the block?
September 28, 2022, 09:18:12 am
Currently listening to the recent Nugget Climbing podcast with Drew Ruana, where he says he’s put in around 70 sessions on Megatron! Interestingly, he doesn’t mention anything about a Raboutou FA.

Liamhutch89

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#106 Re: New 9A on the block?
September 28, 2022, 09:23:50 am
70 sessions! How do they do it?

I'm about 7 sessions into my project and ready to give up on climbing altogether!

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#107 Re: New 9A on the block?
September 28, 2022, 10:30:41 am
Pffft, you're such a Soul Climber, LH89.

Ask shark for spiritual guidance about the long term misery of multi-decade projecteering.

Liamhutch89

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#108 Re: New 9A on the block?
September 28, 2022, 10:46:56 am
Pffft, you're such a Soul Climber, LH89.

Ask shark for spiritual guidance about the long term misery of multi-decade projecteering.

In the aims for 2023 thread I'll be stealing your posts from previous editions. Fuck goal climbing!  :beer2: 

(just this last one I promise)


BillyTheMountain

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#110 Re: New 9A on the block?
October 24, 2022, 01:25:49 pm
Currently listening to the recent Nugget Climbing podcast with Drew Ruana, where he says he’s put in around 70 sessions on Megatron! Interestingly, he doesn’t mention anything about a Raboutou FA.

Drew posted a comment on reddit possibly implies Shawn has done Megatron. He posted:
"Meg is probably harder. Shawn said so at least. It’s a lot more brutal on skin and conditions which has a huge effect on long term project"

In response to someone else saying:
 "Shawn has also sent the Megatron project supposedly, so i feel like he would have a good idea on the difficulty comparison to grade Alphane v17"

teestub

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#111 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 15, 2022, 05:22:04 pm

remus

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#112 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 15, 2022, 05:38:23 pm
Need to have a whip around so we can send Will and Aidan out there to nab a quick repeat and allude to how it isn't as hard as some grotty limestone proj back in the uk.

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#113 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 01:26:18 pm
https://instagram.com/giuliano_cameroni?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Looks like shawn is trying burden, also looks like much of the wooded area has gone which might mean better conditons are more common?


Liamhutch89

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#114 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 01:35:13 pm
2nd ascent of Burden sweepstake, place your bets:

Aidan Roberts
Will Bosi
Vadim Timonov
Shawn Raboutou
Giuliano Cameroni
Other

I'll tentatively go Timonov

yetix

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#115 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 01:46:30 pm
Toru given he's linked the first crux to the 3rd move which is better than others I believe by a bit?

Or Shawn seems a fair vote. Sounds like it would suit him if it's quite powerful?

Not sure if timonov will get to try it again soon with current Russian/Finnish boarder situation?

remus

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#116 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 02:00:48 pm
My bet would be on one of the japanese wads. Toru has been putting time in recently and has good form on ratty crimps.

Has Timonov climbed any 8C+? Big jump otherwise!

Muenchener

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#117 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 02:11:10 pm
Will Timonov be able to get a Finnish visa in current circumstances?

Liamhutch89

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#118 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 02:56:55 pm
Has Timonov climbed any 8C+? Big jump otherwise!

I still want to believe that he who can do the most pullups can climb the hardest  ;D

Bradders

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#119 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 04:00:23 pm
Toru I reckon. I think Will said he wasn't keen, otherwise I think he'd have a great shout.

I wonder whether, due to height, Shawn will be able to do the wide foot beta, or if he'll have to go with Nalle's original harder looking sequence.

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#120 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 07:52:14 pm
My bet would be on one of the japanese wads. Toru has been putting time in recently and has good form on ratty crimps.

Has Timonov climbed any 8C+? Big jump otherwise!

He's done off the Wagon sit. Not sure about any others.

remus

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#121 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 10:13:29 pm
My bet would be on one of the japanese wads. Toru has been putting time in recently and has good form on ratty crimps.

Has Timonov climbed any 8C+? Big jump otherwise!

He's done off the Wagon sit. Not sure about any others.

Hmm, have you got a link? A few places mention him doing the normal start but can't see the sit reported anywhere. Might be getting confused with Sergei Topishko?

yetix

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#122 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 21, 2022, 11:53:06 pm
He has a post about doing the stand 20 plus times but not doing the sitter, idk if he returned...

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#123 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 22, 2022, 11:42:58 am
Is any of the current elite clearly stronger than Nalle was six-seven years ago? (I am not following bouldering with any greater interest then alpine rock climbing for instance, so I would not know). A reasonably quick repeat, like in two trips or so, is maybe only possible for someone who is clearly better than Hukkataival was, so that would be someone who consistently does 8C in a session and sometimes 8C+ in a session too. Is that Shawn Rabatou? (Again, I have no idea)

remus

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#124 Re: New 9A on the block?
November 22, 2022, 11:55:52 am
Is any of the current elite clearly stronger than Nalle was six-seven years ago? (I am not following bouldering with any greater interest then alpine rock climbing for instance, so I would not know). A reasonably quick repeat, like in two trips or so, is maybe only possible for someone who is clearly better than Hukkataival was, so that would be someone who consistently does 8C in a session and sometimes 8C+ in a session too. Is that Shawn Rabatou? (Again, I have no idea)

Yeah, I think it's fair to say the current crop (Shawn, Bosi, Aidan) are stronger than Nalle is/was, though I don't think anyone is currently on 8C+-in-a-session form. Burden is apparently pretty conditions dependent though so I suspect their margin is still small enough that they'll need to put a lot of time in to get form and conditions to line up.

 

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