[Duma]

You know, the "in a session" ones, too hard for the OS (though of course you give it a go), but not so nails it'll take multiple visits. For me this can be anything from 7b - 8a depending on style, so never quite sure when they'll turn up.
Seems to often get disregarded in favour of the cachet of the OS/flash, or the BIGGEST NUMBER limit projects, but man I love 3rd/4th redpoints, when you've not quite got everything dialled and scrape through with a bit of improv and desperation just in time for the pub.

[andy popp]

This is basically where I spent the entirety of my sport climbing career (such as it was), though some might dispute whether that was out of preference, laziness, or fear of pushing myself. 

[James Malloch]

This is basically where I spent the entirety of my sport climbing career (such as it was), though some might dispute whether that was out of preference, laziness, or fear of pushing myself.

Me too. I think unless there’s nothing else to do, I can’t imagine turning up to a crag each week to try something I’m likely to fail on when I could do some easier things I’ve not done.

I love quick redpoints!

Though I don’t feel the same about bouldering (if it’s very convenient for me to do quick after work sessions on).

[SA Chris]

all hail the RIAS.

For me it applies to problems too, going from getting shut down on first try to piecing it together, refining it making links and getting it in an session just as skin, strength or light are fading.

[teestub]

For me it applies to problems too, going from getting shut down on first try to piecing it together, refining it making links and getting it in an session just as skin, strength or light are fading.

Yeah same, love this sort of level at a day trip to a new crag. The Lakes seems to have quite a few small venues where there’ll just be a few warm ups then one main event to get stuck into for the day.

[Fultonius]

I've just realised that I have an aversion to them...  Maybe I should embrace!  I typically have a good O/S attempt on 7a/+/b* (if it looks like my style) and if I don't get them it's usually 2nd go.

I guess I always have the fear that 7b+/7c will not go in a day and for me >7c is almost always a multi-day effort.

[scragrock]

Middle ground for me is just that time i spend training{inside and out} , discovering, cleaning and developing. the rest is pretty much failing on projects old and new.
i do not Onsight/flash as a rule cause im shite.
I left my tick mentality behind long ago in favour of the long game not that i am pouring scorn on how folks derive pleasure or satisfaction from our sport, each to their own and keep smiling is the way i think

[abarro81]

Interesting... I think for me, routes this middle ground (RP in 1-2 sessions) are actually one of my less preferred levels. I love the headspace and the fight of a long onsight/flash... and at the other end the obsession of something hard and the flow of having something dialled, especially if getting pumped and gradually getting higher go by go... but the middle ground often doesn't quite give me either, and not many of my favourite climbing experiences come from this. I'd typically rather try a hard o/s or something that might take 5-10 days, I just find the processes more fun and rewarding. That said, I obviously still enjoy it (especially on a trip where you might not want to risk trying something harder) and find it the least stressful level to climb at mentally. In bouldering it's different - I really enjoy that level, I think because I don't like projecting boulders that much (unless they're long links that climb like routes!)

[petejh]

In a day is also a useful benchmark for unearthing relative strength/weakness. Max RP versus max ‘in a day’.
It’s hard for a fit but weak climber to get over the line on something as soon the moves require finger strength or power over a relatively low point. And hard for a strong but aerobically-challenged climber to have the session fitness to get over the line on something pumpy, once they’ve got pumped beyond a relatively low point in the day.

[jwi]

Yeah, RP in a day is probably the best gauge of actual physical capabilities and current shape. However...

Generally I prefer either onsight or long sieges, but it depends on rock-type and style as well. On e.g. white polished lime-stone where it is hard to see the holds, and especially if there are lots of undercuts I don't really like to onsight too much as the climbing becomes very slow; in those cases in-a-day redpoints can be a nicer alternative to onsighting. On easy-to-read rock, on the other hand, I rarely do a second try if I fail on the onsight. At some point I found that if I allow myself a second go on routes I hold back ever so slightly from going all out. For me, the ideal onsight or onsight attempt is one where I dug so deep that no more climbing is possible the same day, and preferably not the day after either.

For redpoints I have started to love the long siege. It might be because I don't improve that much on the sequence/flow after 2-3 goes. If I want to do stuff that is hard for me I have to keep trying until I get actually stronger on the moves or having a rare confluence of conditions and form. This take months, and so be it.

[TobyD]

I think for me this style is the perfect one when on holiday, or travelling because it is the least stressful, in many ways. You don't have the pressure of either being on the onsight (or flash), or of having invested a significant amount of time into it. That said, I've always found that redpoint anxiety is very difficult to deal with, if you don't suffer with it, then I can see that a more protracted RP could well be as enjoyable.
On a more local crag, I don't think I mind that much.