[tommytwotone]

Cheers - a bit annoying as I'd actually got to the point of being able to do some exercise, even if it was exercise that I don't like and am really poor at...my swimming is more "semi-competent drowning avoidance"!


Had my fair share of upper body climbing tweaks, but this is my first one below the waist. Actually worse as it impacts literally everything you do. Had to borrow some crutches from a family member who broke her foot recently, and had to use one of them to be able to drop my kids off at school this morning.


Hoping the specialist gives me some good news, just a bit of a pain to have to wait so long.

[James Malloch]

I'd imagine it'll be less busy on a weekday, but being busy is part of the fun at Ceuse. Better to embrace it or it'll just wind you up. The easy routes just to the right of Cascade are normally quiet, think the sector is called Thorgal. The Grand Face is also almost always quiet and very good. Make sure you do Petit Illusion at Berlin; unbelievable 7a+.

Cent Patates and Blocage are both excellent but neither are 7b+ really; CP is 7b and BV solid 7c! Very different, CP more of a slab climb and Blocage brutal power endurance. So good!

Way less busy today! Tried Petite Illusion today after seeing your post. Awesome route! Managed to drop it on the onsight* going to the jug at the penultimate bolt. Got the sequence right but should have put a LF on to get the extra inch I needed rather than just rocking up.

Next go I fell a few moves earlier. Feeling pretty shattered and looking forward to a rest day tomorrow and then back on it next time we’re up. Maybe Blocage is a bit much for me at the moment!

Really enjoying it, not got scared yet other than on a polished 7a and taken plenty of falls which isn’t like me!

[spidermonkey09]

That's basically what I did on my onsight go. There's such a lot of good low 7s to do. Don't miss Un Pont Sur L'Infini and La Reine de Pommes, also Retour en Afrique. All absolutely brilliant. If you can be arsed my logbook from when I went back in 2018 has notes on basically everything I did so you can avoid the routes that are only 2 stars!

I'm going back in August and can't wait.

[James Malloch]

That's basically what I did on my onsight go. There's such a lot of good low 7s to do. Don't miss Un Pont Sur L'Infini and La Reine de Pommes, also Retour en Afrique. All absolutely brilliant. If you can be arsed my logbook from when I went back in 2018 has notes on basically everything I did so you can avoid the routes that are only 2 stars!

I'm going back in August and can't wait.

I’ll have a look at it, thanks. If I get my visa sorted I’ll be here around august too I think. Fingers crossed!

[Fiend]

Poor TTTTT, that sounds real bad luck just going again like that.

[duncan]

I remember the muddy pocket because I managed to simultaneously slip out of it and get the rope through the biner on the chains just as I started falling, was happy to call that a tick!

TICK!

Way less busy today!

Phew! As others have said, Un pont sur l'infini and eastwards is often much quieter.

Shifted in my seat, something in my knee went pop, excruciating pain. Had to be helped up the stairs to go to bed.

Good luck TTT.


M - see last week.
T - Shoulder conditioning: lock-offs at various angles, side planks, handstands.
W - Shoulders.
T - Shoulders, 5km walk.
F - Fingerboard: 15mm edge: 10s hangs with a 4 finger half-crimp, 5s “trying hard” one arm at a time with a 3 finger crimp. A decent session considering. 
S - Exhausted.
S - Fingerboard as Friday. 5km walk (to a concert at the Barbican). Exhausted.
M - Review appointment at the hospital. Leg is still somewhat swollen but looking less red and unhappy. The repeat US scan shows no DVT and blood tests are back to normal. Saw a different doctor who thinks the US does not rule out a superficial thrombus - ie the sapheous vein - but he's not concerned and the treatment for this is a simple NSAID or asprin rather than a stronger anticoagulant. He didn't want to restart antibiotics and was happy to sign a piece of paper saying I was fit to travel. I’m still a bit concerned about the somewhat conflicting advice from different people but I’m going to go to France and hope I get fit enough for the Céüse walk-in whilst I’m there. Walked 7km, longest in two weeks.

I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions for crags with a less onerous approach than Céüse?! Ideally with some easy stuff as I'll need to be pretty cautious for a day or two, not in the full sun, and within an hours drive! Orpierre seems a possibility?

[Fiend]

Glad there's progress, Duncan!

[jwi]

Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.

[Fultonius]

Sounds like some positive progress Duncan!

I would have though that as  long as you are "fit to fly" and have not been told by a GP/med professional not to fly, then you will be covered. I'm sure the tedious small print will explain it somewhere.

Hope Ceuse is good!

[spidermonkey09]

Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

[SA Chris]

Orpierre seems a possibility?

My first though, or Sisteron?

Glad it looks like things are improving.

[James Malloch]

I remember the muddy pocket because I managed to simultaneously slip out of it and get the rope through the biner on the chains just as I started falling, was happy to call that a tick!

TICK!

Way less busy today!

Phew! As others have said, Un pont sur l'infini and eastwards is often much quieter.

Shifted in my seat, something in my knee went pop, excruciating pain. Had to be helped up the stairs to go to bed.

Good luck TTT.


M - see last week.
T - Shoulder conditioning: lock-offs at various angles, side planks, handstands.
W - Shoulders.
T - Shoulders, 5km walk.
F - Fingerboard: 15mm edge: 10s hangs with a 4 finger half-crimp, 5s “trying hard” one arm at a time with a 3 finger crimp. A decent session considering. 
S - Exhausted.
S - Fingerboard as Friday. 5km walk (to a concert at the Barbican). Exhausted.
M - Review appointment at the hospital. Leg is still somewhat swollen but looking less red and unhappy. The repeat US scan shows no DVT and blood tests are back to normal. Saw a different doctor who thinks the US does not rule out a superficial thrombus - ie the sapheous vein - but he's not concerned and the treatment for this is a simple NSAID or asprin rather than a stronger anticoagulant. He didn't want to restart antibiotics and was happy to sign a piece of paper saying I was fit to travel. I’m still a bit concerned about the somewhat conflicting advice from different people but I’m going to go to France and hope I get fit enough for the Céüse walk-in whilst I’m there. Walked 7km, longest in two weeks.

I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Any suggestions for crags with a less onerous approach than Céüse?! Ideally with some easy stuff as I'll need to be pretty cautious for a day or two, not in the full sun, and within an hours drive! Orpierre seems a possibility?

Glad to hear your on the mend. I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

[James Malloch]

11.6-9 average 163.4 up 0.1lb

M

T

W. AM Home warm up. Tor. Temps ok when I arrived but soon got too hot. Played on Bens. Didn’t feel as fresh and good as I hoped after 4 days rest. However, more solid on cross thru finding that pulling body across as well as inwards helped. Also identified why I’ve been finding second move of crux section harder lately which is because I’m getting less out of the pocket when I’m extended because I’m holding it differently which in turn means theres more of my weight on the other arm on the crimp when swinging right leg out then in to toe hook. I’m sure this move will be ok in better conditions. Also next time will explore if I can make it easier by moving RF somewhere first. 

T.

F. Trad day 5. Earlyish start. Brief home warm up then High Tor with Simon K. He led Perseus which I followed. My aim was to do Lyme Cryme in a single pitch. Bit of offputting drizzle when I started but did the groove and runout to the break ok which I was dreading but then unexpectedly found myself pumped and scared on the crux groove in the bulge and ended up dogging past the terrible looking peg with the tat though might have done it clean with the confidence of an extra cam to back the peg. Felt like an ordeal to the top but chuffed with my rope work as there was no rope drag. Great way to do it as a single pitch especially as the midway belay is a faff to set up. Clearly still got a long way to go with trad fitness

S.

S.

Easier week this week. Feel like I’ve lost impetus and direction though plenty to look forward to. Mingulay in 10 days time for 5 days then out to Briancon with family and the Barkers for 10 days. Also Sonia keen to book flights for Chicago in mid October for the marathon so decided it would be silly not to tag on an RRG trip after as it’s only a short internal flight or 6.5hour drive. No climbing partners or accommodation sorted but worst case I can camp at Miguel’s and climb with randoms

What dates are you in Briancon? I think that might be our next stop.

[duncan]

Thanks everyone.

Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.

We're staying in walking distance of the crag, so RdM is a little further than one hour. Looks a decent option tho'.


[/quote]

I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

We're arriving on the 29th. Noted the idea of the e-bikes, I wonder where you rent them? I guess the pros have them in their campervans. Ironically the walk-in was my relative strength on previous visits but that was then...

If I take the walk slowly, allow a stop or two, take an afternoon nap, and make plenty of cups of tea I should be OK. I'll take a drybag and might stash some gear up there.

[James Malloch]

Thanks everyone.

Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.

We're staying in walking distance of the crag, so RdM is a little further than one hour. Looks a decent option tho'.

I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

We're arriving on the 29th. Noted the idea of the e-bikes, I wonder where you rent them? I guess the pros have them in their campervans. Ironically the walk-in was my relative strength on previous visits but that was then...

If I take the walk slowly, allow a stop or two, take an afternoon nap, and make plenty of cups of tea I should be OK. I'll take a drybag and might stash some gear up there.
[/quote]

You can hire them here, but it’s €40 per day so not the cheapest.

We’ve been walking up early to avoid the heat and climbing until lunch then having a 3 hour chill. But the forecast is looking good for cloudier, cooler days.

[Aussiegav]

Any advice on a A2 strain.  Apart from icing it. 4th day on today. And after a board session this evening, it’s tender & sore on my ring finger.
No acute incident or pop. Just felt sore at the end of the session.

[James Malloch]

Thanks everyone.

Depending on where you are staying, Rue de masque is also within one hour driving. Less than 60 km from Gap.

We're staying in walking distance of the crag, so RdM is a little further than one hour. Looks a decent option tho'.

I think we’re staying here (at the campsite) for another week at least. Maybe see you at the crag?

Not sure if it’s possible, but all the locals are on e-bikes. Looks like the pros often get them when here too - maybe you could hire one somewhere and cut out a lot of the walk? Not sure how intense any pedalling is, but sounds like it cuts out a lot of walking effort!

Happy to help with ropes etc too if you want a packhorse for a day to stash things up there.

Duncan - worth renting an ebike to take the edge off the approach? Glad things are improving though; I'd have thought the approach would be ok if you give yourself plenty of time to wander up in the mornings.

We're arriving on the 29th. Noted the idea of the e-bikes, I wonder where you rent them? I guess the pros have them in their campervans. Ironically the walk-in was my relative strength on previous visits but that was then...

If I take the walk slowly, allow a stop or two, take an afternoon nap, and make plenty of cups of tea I should be OK. I'll take a drybag and might stash some gear up there.

You can hire them here, but it’s €40 per day so not the cheapest.

We’ve been walking up early to avoid the heat and climbing until lunch then having a 3 hour chill. But the forecast is looking good for cloudier, cooler days.
[/quote]

Missed the link https://www.e-pedal.fr/fr/location-velo-vtt-electrique/

[Fiend]

Any advice on a A2 strain.  Apart from icing it. 4th day on today. And after a board session this evening, it’s tender & sore on my ring finger.
No acute incident or pop. Just felt sore at the end of the session.

I'm not the most experienced in these but i've had benefits from cross-taping over the knuckle so the finger can't actually go into a full crimp position. Sticking to climbing open-handed for now and at a lower load. For the acute stages a bit of rest and icing it in the short term ofc.

[James Malloch]

Any advice on a A2 strain.  Apart from icing it. 4th day on today. And after a board session this evening, it’s tender & sore on my ring finger.
No acute incident or pop. Just felt sore at the end of the session.

When I did mine (sounded similar) it was pretty painful but with no pop.

I took it easy climbing from then on for a while (3 months to be not thinking about it at all) and did density pulls 4/5 times a day. 30 seconds of Pulling hard enough on a hold to trigger the pain but never getting more than about 5 or 6 out of 10.

On the board I would just use grips which didn’t hurt.

I also used the pulley rings from Andy (process physiotherapy) which I think helped a lot when climbing too. I had a session with him too for the diagnosis to confirm an injury. The rings are basically a way to tape up real tight without constricting blood flow. £30 for 3 but worth it for my rehab.

[shark]

I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Was that a BMC staff member you spoke to or someone from the claim handling company? Best person to speak to about policies is Jim and if you need to escalate then Arun heads up the Insurance team. Their emails are here: www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-staff-list

What dates are you in Briancon? I think that might be our next stop.

3-10 June

[James Malloch]

I have a BMC multi-trip insurance from January. I phoned the helpline yesterday to ask if I was covered and the person was singularly unhelpful. I’m not sure they realised I already had a policy as they were just keen to sell. I’ve emailed but no reply as yet. Any thoughts?

Was that a BMC staff member you spoke to or someone from the claim handling company? Best person to speak to about policies is Jim and if you need to escalate then Arun heads up the Insurance team. Their emails are here: www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-staff-list

What dates are you in Briancon? I think that might be our next stop.

3-10 June

Ah cool. We’re probably staying in Ceuse for a week or two. And want to be in the Frankenjura around 20th June.

I’m keen for Briancon to visit a friend but the food near Arco is also quite a draw!

If we’re in the area I’ll let you know. I think we met at the 5/6 years ago but always nice to meet people from here.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Power au chocolat club...

M: 5 miler along Stanage and back - not run for ages and was well slow but was great!
T: Nowt
W: Sheaf bloc - Shut down! Utter, utter shite! Rest for Verdon!
T: Rest
F: Travel to Verdon
S: Dolce Vita F6b - Wow! Awesome and not a sandbag... Not too exposed either so felt well within my comfort zone! Best pitch was the last and still had some daylight so gave Jus the lead on Wide is Love F6a... SHIT THE BED! Almost had a breakdown, nearly missed the belay abbing in from the top, pulling the ropes with that level of exposure was almost too much to bear, chalkbag nearly falling off into the void halfway up was just the last straw... Had to have a little lie down after that! (climbing was piss tho!)
S: Dalles Grisis - Did some 4 pitch F6c (whose name escapes me)... Mostly F6a/b with one hard section... Great climbing!

Wow! Verdon is amazing, wasn't quite prepared for the feeling of utter commitment when abbing in and pulling the ropes on a hanging stance with no idea what lies below though... Quite a ride!

[Aussiegav]

That’s sounds amazing & trouser filling all in one Duncan