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Olympic qualification Paris 2024 (Read 2451 times)

Potash

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Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 01:44:37 pm
I've been reading the newly released qualification system for the Paris 2024 Olympics.

I am obviously ignoring the Speed.

They are going to hand out three spots at the 2023 World Championships, five at the continental cups (one per continent) and retain two for the host and the universality place.

This leaves 10 places for an invitational qualification series with an unknown process.

All sounds very dodgy


SA Chris

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#1 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 02:34:22 pm
invitation if you have climbed 9a+ or harder in the preceding year.

jwi

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#2 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 02:53:37 pm
so like one hundred invitees?

SA Chris

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#3 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 03:23:45 pm
yup, fight it out gladiator style.

Dexter

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#4 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 03:47:14 pm
Invitations for previous medalists? Is that a thing?

Also surely as a UK bouldering forum it should be a deathmatch of 8C boulderers not 9a+ route climbers.  Are there climbing gear based weapons involved? Boulder pads, clipsticks and ropes?

mattbirddog

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#5 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 04:07:31 pm
Hiya,

Invitation for the urban series events will be based on 2023 world cup performance so almost certainly will be say...top 40 overall ranks invited or top 40 over boulder and lead.

So really, the journey to Paris starts sooner than World Champs in Bern for most athletes.

Potash

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#6 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 04:46:22 pm
It really does appear that the selection method is aiming to select the best climbers from over a year prior to the Olympics.

If the 40 invites (still sounds dodgy and a weird stitch up) leading to 10 places are based on positions in the 2023 world cup series and there are 3 places from 2023 World Championships that means that 13 out of 18 competitive places will be awarded on the basis of performance over a year prior to the Olympics.

This seems harsh for any climbers who are actually good at climbing when the Olympics take place as opposed to aging has-beens who are squatting in places that they gained based on what happened 12 month previously.

Looking at Athletics it appears you can qualify up to 4 weeks prior to the Olympics which is surely much better for selecting people who are actually "currently" good at climbing.

Moo

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#7 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 10:10:01 pm
It’s not like the French to do dodgy stuff in competitions  :-\

abarro81

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#8 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 19, 2022, 10:42:28 pm
Invitation for the urban series events

Is this a typo or is Olympic climbing trying to be street?

mattbirddog

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#9 Re: Olympic qualification Paris 2024
May 20, 2022, 06:54:35 am
No, you are correct.

The IOC is putting breakdancing, skating, BMX and climbing together. I agree whilst the others make total sense, for climbing in a traditional sense feels like a bit of a stretch.

I guess most indoor walls and climbers are from urban areas so that's how you wrap your head around it? Plus all will be held in Cities.

mattbirddog

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If the 40 invites (still sounds dodgy and a weird stitch up)

Couple of thoughts:

- this combined event, yet again, is something only a couple of Spanish climbers have actually competed in so far and is only been run a handful of times prior to the Olympics so if I was an athlete I would really want to secure qualification asap so I can prep before going on the world's biggest sporting stage.

- the Urban series runs until June, the Olympics start in July so you have time for in form athletes to qualify a month out - albeit from the 2023 pool.

- Continentals allow for a 'Colin Duffy' to come out of nowhere to win it, although I would argue that this is a lot more unlikely in the Europe or Americas blocs this time around.

- To hit the 'Olympic Spirit' mark, the Olympics qualification rules will always try and get a fair spread of athletes with the continental qualification spot, tripartite etc and limiting to two spots per country.

Whilst this creates an artificial representation of the world's best (which lets face it would be predominantly Japanese, French and US with smatterings of other nations to fill the numbers), it meets the 'Olympic Spirit' test.

We can watch the IFSC world cups to watch utter domination of power countries week in week out!

Bradders

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Whilst this creates an artificial representation of the world's best (which lets face it would be predominantly Japanese, French and US with smatterings of other nations to fill the numbers), it meets the 'Olympic Spirit' test.

Don't forget the Slovenians!

SA Chris

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breakdancing

Slightly OT, but WTF. Breakdancing was cool in the mid 80s, are there that many people who compete?

abarro81

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No, you are correct.

The IOC is putting breakdancing, skating, BMX and climbing together. I agree whilst the others make total sense, for climbing in a traditional sense feels like a bit of a stretch.

I guess most indoor walls and climbers are from urban areas so that's how you wrap your head around it? Plus all will be held in Cities.

Haha, I really hope all the urban events are won by people off the back of flashing 9a in Ceuse just to show how crap that concept is  :lol: Between that branding and everything going to Discovery it seems like the IFSC is doing its best to make comp climbing irrelevant to most rock climbers

mattbirddog

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Don't forget the Slovenians!

Agreed, but bar Janja's cameo in Meiringen they have had a pretty awful season so by their usually very high standards and they are looking light on the men's side of the drawer whereas France, Japan and USA dominate across both sides of the comp.

Expect the Slovenian women to do well in Lead season tho as usual.

danm

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No, you are correct.

The IOC is putting breakdancing, skating, BMX and climbing together. I agree whilst the others make total sense, for climbing in a traditional sense feels like a bit of a stretch.

I guess most indoor walls and climbers are from urban areas so that's how you wrap your head around it? Plus all will be held in Cities.

Haha, I really hope all the urban events are won by people off the back of flashing 9a in Ceuse just to show how crap that concept is  :lol: Between that branding and everything going to Discovery it seems like the IFSC is doing its best to make comp climbing irrelevant to most rock climbers
It's an IOC decision not an IFSC one

 

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