[M1V0]

I had a search through the forum and couldn't find anything relevant, but I'm looking to check out Ingleby Incline at some point soon (ie this weekend maybe).

(a) what guide is necessary to find my way around/can anyone share a couple of photos of relevant pages so I don't need to buy a guide that may not get much use?
(b) is it worth going this time of year? I'm unfamiliar with this venue and not aware of seeping, etc.

Thanks

[webbo]

There are 2 guides Franco’s which is routes and limited bouldering and there’s the bouldering guide.
I’ve been once and my memory is you need the guide to find your way round.

[Will Hunt]

I reckon either of those guides would be well worth supporting.

[fatneck]

Agree with the above.

Having said that, we visited a couple of years ago and the landscape had changed significantly since the guides came out which added to the challenge...

Oh and I seem to recall Richie Crouch broke something off the Bear Pit problem (Bears Paw?) which may now be significantly harder!

The Carriage is a brilliant boulder. Good luck!

[Franco]

There are a few good problems, but it's mostly a bit rubbish. Try and go there in a breeze if you can.

My guide's got all the good problems at ingleby in, but it's done in a pretty shit way.

Will's guide is just a knock off of my guide, so with even less and even worse. Betaguides is out of print and the pages will blow away before you get out of the car.

In summary: don't go there and don't buy any guides. 

[M1V0]

My guide's got all the good problems at ingleby in, but it's done in a pretty shit way.

You're really selling your guide here, you're a natural-born salesman!

[M1V0]

Thanks everyone for the advice, mostly keen to check out Sleepy Hollow. The plan is to check out Caley or something, but Ingleby is a touch closer to home if real bouldering venue plans go awry.

[Franco]

It's pretty much unsaleable anyway, now Will's scanned it into his guide. 

[Bradders]

Thanks everyone for the advice, mostly keen to check out Sleepy Hollow. The plan is to check out Caley or something, but Ingleby is a touch closer to home if real bouldering venue plans go awry.

Sleepy Hollow is a fantastic problem, would be a black star in Font no sweat. Really lovely spot in the woods too. Just a shame there are so few other things there! As Franco says it really needs a good breeze.

Worth mountain biking the approach, 99% of which is on good non-tarmaced roads or tracks.

Don't go to Caley this time of year. You will not be getting the best of it.

[M1V0]

So far what I'm learning from this thread is "don't visit the NE for bouldering"!

I'm based near Durham as of recent, what is worth visiting at this time of year? For the mid-7s+ range?

[BID]

If Franco doesn't see this, ping him on Instagram. I assume you'll get a fairly thorough answer :D

[Bradders]

So far what I'm learning from this thread is "don't visit the NE for bouldering"!

I'm based near Durham as of recent, what is worth visiting at this time of year? For the mid-7s+ range?

I imagine Goldsborough Carr will be your closest. Faces South so gets lots of sun, but also lots of wind so I think can still be good later into Spring.

Caley is, in my humble opinion, the best crag for bouldering in the UK. Sadly however it becomes an overgrown humid jungle during Summer, and I've had some horrendous sessions there stumbling about in the foliage. To be fair, it's probably not that bad just yet and particularly the top / crag end will be okay still, you're just not going to see it at its best. There are lots and lots of other venues in North Yorkshire that are better further into Summer, off the top of my head; Rylstone, Kilnsey bouldering, Goyden, Rolling Gate, Ash Head, Flaystones, Great Wolfrey, Eavestone and Great Roova.

I would pick up a copy of Lee Robinson's NYM bouldering guide. There are lots of venues in the Moors for bouldering although whether they're good in Summer is another thing. Boulby springs to mind as probably a good option.

[SA Chris]

Agree there's tons of moorland stuff that's fine in summer if you pick your day and not after cutting edge grades. A cool overcast day and a strong breeze it might as well be winter.

[M1V0]

Not heard of Goldsborough and didn't realise how close it was, must have almost passed it a couple of times going to the plant nursery in Eggleston already. Might check that out instead this weekend then.

For Caley, I get it won't be the best right now, the main interest there is Zoo York, is that a "don't bother, come back later" type problem? Sadly, I'll be moving out of the area (hopefully) at the end of Summer, so keen to find some places that won't be shit.

[User deactivated.]

Not heard of Goldsborough and didn't realise how close it was, must have almost passed it a couple of times going to the plant nursery in Eggleston already. Might check that out instead this weekend then.

For Caley, I get it won't be the best right now, the main interest there is Zoo York, is that a "don't bother, come back later" type problem? Sadly, I'll be moving out of the area (hopefully) at the end of Summer, so keen to find some places that won't be shit.

Conditions do matter, but I did the Drey a couple of summers ago, which is a 7C sloper problem at Caley. It was mid 20's on the day and I'd failed on it the previous winter in good conditions. The difference was i'd just got stronger for it to not matter. 

You'll need very strong fingers for Zoo York, but I'd imagine it's not particularly conditions dependent as far as grit goes. Get yourself a portable fan and give it a go!

[Steve R]

I'm based near Durham as of recent, what is worth visiting at this time of year? For the mid-7s+ range?

Copied and pasted my reply re North York Moors from this thread:

'Some NYM ones... can say with confidence these would be regarded good quality anywhere and are fine when it's hot. ie. too hot for grit:

Sleepy Hollow sit start 7B+ at Ingleby Incline
Chasing Rainbows 7B (sit ~7B+) and Fragments 7B+ at Round Crag, Blakey Ridge
Mighty Oak 7B at Oak crag, Blakey again
Edge of Glory sit ~7B and Wings of Insanity 7B+ at Roseberry topping
Cold War 7B, and others at Thorgill
Dark Angel and its variations ~7B-7C+, (& Requiem 8A) The Mechanical Turk 7B, Chuckie Egg (highball) 7B  at Stoupe Brow

All the above are fine with one or two pads apart from Chuckie Egg maybe.  Also, I've 'Hunt-proofed' the grades to some extent.  Most are given more generous numbers on ukc logs but think the above more inline with peak, etc.' 

On ingleby specifically, I'd echo Bradders' post - worth visiting for Sleepy Hollow alone and worth taking a bike if you can and lock it up somewhere near the start of the incline itself.  Sleepy hollow tends to be a bit damp so probably best to have a couple of dry days before going.  You could probably get away with a visit sans guidebook.  Sleepy hollow is roughly here:
https://w3w.co/palms.cheese.arranges  (that might be the boulder or possibly a bit too far north can't really tell but it's in that vicinity)
To get to it, start up the incline but hang a left onto the forestry track visible on sat image.  After about 150-200(?) m there's a little path that heads off right quite steeply up through the woods (pine trees) the path isn't particularly defined but follow your nose and you'll find the boulder up there.
If you continue up from sleepy hollow, you cross a fence at the top edge of the woodland and you're on a path.  If you head right (looking in toward crag above) you arrive at bear pit and bitch slap in a couple of minutes.  Unfortunately big brown bear is now all but ruined due to a large boulder slipping out of the hillside and coming to rest under it and think the 7a to the right has a broken (now unpleasant?) hold.

[Bradders]

Also, I've 'Hunt-proofed' the grades to some extent.  Most are given more generous numbers on ukc logs but think the above more inline with peak, etc.' 

Ha was going to say, those are rather stingy in my opinion!

[Smith42]

If you are thinking of 7C-8A problems, Goldsbrough has some brilliant problems and link ups in this range, start with Beths Traverse and take it from there.  Most problems start under a roof so are always shaded and if you get a breeze then conditions will likely be excellent.