[shark]

11.7-10 Average 162.3 down 1.1lb

M. AM Home warm up. PM/Eve. Tor. Low humidity so way better than previous Monday. Workout on Bens. Found yet another alternative foothold for cross thru move. Struggled to engage shoulder to place the toe hook after throw move for some reason which held me back trying to link the crux section which was my aim. Quit when I failed to do second move of the start. Moved on to Crag X. Half a dozen attempts on JR from ground with best go coming off going for slot in roof. Then had a go on the start of Moffatrocity managing first 5 moves. Finished off at Rubicon with some traversing. Love this type of day. Have to try hard and ticks several training boxes in beautiful locations.

T.

W.

T.

F. Home warm up. Trad day 4. Out with Simon K to Staden. I led the Nails E1 and he led the eliminate E1/2 to its left. I then did Welcome to Hard Times E2 backing the sorry looking thread up with 5! decent sideways wires before committing to the crux. First did it 38 years ago! Simon did Captain Reliable E2 and I finished off by soloing Joint Effort HVS - something I’d done a couple of times in the past. Good day. Would have pushed the grade more if we’d gone to High Tor.

S.

S. PM Mobility / Core routine


Was meant to be at LPT this week but various things got in the way. Seem to be altering plans a lot at the moment. Had arranged a trad day on weds but partner at risk was in contact with someone with covid. On weds morning felt tired and unmotivated so  gave climbing a miss altogether that day. On Friday was meant to go to High Tor but winds forecast so figured Staden more sensible. Looking at diary last time I had more than 2 days off was beginning of March so overdue a break. Felt tired even after the trad day so will take a few more days off.

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Shark. Sounds like you had a busy day touring peak lime classic venues.

Monday -
Rest day

Tuesday
Mileage session, aim to do 30problems in 45 mins on the 2017 At 25degrees.

I got half way through this but my knee, down climbing and the repeated drops from the board got to me and I stopped and did 4on:4off of feet on the ground traverses on the splat board.
Finished with 4x 30s hollow body holds and tried bicycles with my feet in the rings. 3 sets of 20.

Felt a bit fed up and lost with my training at the end of the session. Hard to be motivated when I can’t climb or train as I want to.

Wednesday -
Rest day

Thursday -
Mileage session on the 2017 Moonboard.
Taking at least 2min rest between problems. I did 19 problems in the session, 16 were flashed. 3 problems I didn’t do in two attempts. One of the 3, I tried it 4 times, this was the last problem of the session.

In the evening I did a 60min peloton ride. So unfit!!!

Friday -
Conditioning after work
 3min rests between reps
4×3 tuck pull ups
Bench Press
1set of 8 50kg
4 sets of 4 75kg
Pull ups
2sets of 4 BW
4sets of 4 BW plus 8kg
Overhead press
1sets of 10 bar only
3 sets of 8 30kg
Single Arm Preacher Curls
3sets of 8 15kg plus dumbbell
3sets if 8 10kg. Overhand curls

Saturday -
60min peloton ride.

Sunday. - Worked

Will try and get back on some routes this coming week.

[Duma]

Sounds like a couple of nice days Shark. Sorry about the knee Gav, hope it improves soon. Ok on the bike though?

M - Cheddar, pigs hole. Couldn't find a catch so went for a go at Woody's Traverse - 18 move rising traverse that gets 7A+ in the guide, but is easily 7B, or maybe more appropriately 7c+. Scatty lime traversing in a litter strewn cave smelling of piss was a bit of a comedown after Font last week, but it was nice to be out, and at least it's far enough up the gorge to avoid most of the boy racers. Did the moves pretty quickly but was really struggling with the 4th/5th move from the start. Eventually realised I wasn't engaging the Egyptian enough, and a couple of attempts later scraped through to the end. Topped up my womble points by taking home a couple of disposable braais and some mcdonald's detritus too.
T - 8 hr shift. 2 min plank.
W - 12 hr shift.
T -  2 min plank with variations and a few press ups. TCA pm, hour of new oranges (6A-6B+) flashed nearly all.
F - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. 8k run, hilly(ish), trail, 41 min. 1:20 plank
S - Cheddar, Freaky Wall. Repeated Numb Ones (6b+) to warm up, then OS attempt at On Radio (7b+) that ended just past last bolt. Steady second go. Did Sunday Shocker (7a) first go, but have done all the routes it links before. OS of Tarmac Terminator (7a) next, then chuffed to get the OS of Manic Depression (7a+). Pretty knackered by now but tried Manchmals (7b+), not close on the OS, barely scraped up it second go. Excellent day, followed by pint and pickled egg in the Crown
S - Run, 10k, hilly, got a bit lost, 1:04.

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 132 min

[James Malloch]

M. Rest day - found a lovely swimming spot near Margalef.

T. Can Verduras. Did a 6A at the sector to the right and then tried O’Mar Galef (7a+). Went to put draws in thinking it would be hard and then found myself high up above the crux. Dropped the last move the the chains after missing a hold. Went really smoothly next go.

W. Rest day at Parque Sama. Weird place but fun enough to wander around for a few hours.

T. Short visit to Taragona and then Drove to Malgrat de Mar for Zora’s acro yoga festival.

F. Can Boquet bouldering. Arrived at midday on full sun. Failed on lots of 6A/B but did three 6Cs and some easier bits.

S. Walk along the beach and general chill.

S. Back to Can Boquet. Did the 6B+ I failed on on Friday. Managed a 7B and another 7B + 7A which were both very soft.


Good few days bouldering but keen to get back on the sport again. Tuesday was the first route I actually wanted and even though I fell, I wasn’t actually worried or thinking about falling at all, even on the onsight. Need to tap into that psyche again when we next stop!

[Coops_13]

T: Stone Summit Atlanta. Different gym to the usual, much better but still not a great fingerboard set up. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW *2, +10lb *2, 15mm *2. Boulders V4-6 X4 - nice to pull a bit harder. Shoulder press 40lb X6 *3, Chest press 50lb X5 *3.

T: G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +10lb, +20lb *2, +25lb *2. Kilterboard 40deg 1V3, 2V4, 5V5. Shoulder press 45lb, chest press 50lb X5 *3sets.

F: Core

S: Big Elk Meadows. Sanctuary. Warmed up and tried a couple of V5s, vert and nt my style but good fun. Hand seems to be fine once warm but slow to warm up. Put in some burns on Shapeshifter V8 but no cigar. Definitely a way off that grade in terms of fingers, PE, climbing at the moment.

S: G1. Legs. Squats 165lb X5 *5. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X6 *3sets. Lower Body Stretching. 10 mins stairmaster at setting 7 (kept it light as first time doing it). Core. 3 mile hike up Skunk Canyon

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - very tired. Light boxing bag.
Tue - garage session 3. Increasing volume on last set.
Wed - board climbing, tired. High point on project. Lasted short. Season over?
Thu - thruster x10, snatch pulls x10, x10. Ab wheel dynamic x5, static 10", x2, x6.
Fri - rest.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - thruster and snatch pulls, pull ups, loaded carries.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T.
W.
T. Board session in the evening. Not quite going full beans and sticking to open handing, feeling good though and fingers feeling alright.

F. Some light stretching late night. Other half, 6 months postpartum and having sworn blind she didn't want to do any exercise or yoga at the moment, decided to join in and then admitted she felt really good after, success!

S. Her folks looked after little one and we went the fuck out for food and drinks, bloody lovely.

S. Board session in the evening. Warmed up well bearing in mid Ned's approach of working up to 3 max hangs (described in length in his interview with Nugget podcast). Fingers felt good, jumped on the board and pulled hard. Even worked on a few moves off the hard undercut/sidepulls which are pretty intense, probably the hardest moves on the board yet. Feel very much on an upward trajectory at the moment with the consistent board sessions, improving week on week, and I've recovered a bit of lock off strength on both arms now which is nice. Very much keeping in mind Ned's philosophy of consistency and not changing things up for the sake of it, if its working. Worked well for me 5 years ago when I had a long spell of fingerboarding and steady gainz.

New mid term goal: get a bit more bendy
Long term goal, as ever: more outdoor climbing

[duncan]

M (early am) -  “There is a six hour wait y’know” said the woman in front of me. The Whittington A+E is like a posh nightclub: the door staff look you over in the queue hoping they can say you’re wasting your time. The clipboard wielder took one glance at my sausage foot and ushered me forward. My name was on the list and I was coming in! Lots of investigations, the main finding being my CRP was 289 (blood marker for inflammation; 2 is normal, 10 is high). Diagnosis: cellulitis of unknown origin. I spent the rest of the night there on an IV antibiotic drip.
T - F - Daily IV antibiotics. Leg deteriorated a bit.
S - Consultant decided I probably had a saphenous vein thrombosis, added a blood thinner to the antibiotics and ordered an ultrasound to confirm. This all makes sense to me as my inner thigh was where everything first started hurting and there is a palpable cord there.
S - IV antibiotics. I did some shoulder stability exercises. Feeling a bit better?
M - Ultrasound scan. No clot detected! Sonographer says it can take time for clots to become visible. Nurse practitioner thinks it’s ‘just’ an infection. Takes me off the anticoagulants and puts me on a different antibiotic. Orders me to be less mobile and spend most of the day with my feet up. Not sure I buy all this but will comply for a couple of days. Leg still looks like a frankfurter.

Not much training this week! I could have done a bit more but, not surprisingly, didn't have much enthusiasm.

Supposed to be going to Ceuse in 10 days. Given I’m currently struggling with a flight of stairs this is highly unlikely. In theory, an infection should get better in this timescale with the right antibiotics but progress seems very slow at the moment and current medical advice is not to travel.

[SA Chris]

Um, this isn't NNFN! This sounds horrible, nothing obvious caused the onset?

[Fiend]

Poor duncan, and best wishes.

[User deactivated.]

Good write up on the Monday entry. 'Clipboard wielder' is particularly poetic. 

Hope you get well soon, Duncan!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Get well soon Duncan... Celulitis sounds horrible!

Missed out a couple of weeks I think, been crazy busy with work and prepping for the Verdon...

Summary of week 662:

Sheaf bloc PE x 2 (working the traverse - supposedly 6C but more like F7b) and some easy sport.

663:

Sheaf bloc x 2 and some easy sport...

Last week:

M: Nowt
T: Sheaf bloc - Full traverse! Felt like the living end when I first tried it and still didn't feel easy but managed to hang on... Now to try the start from the far end (meaning all the hard climbing is condensed)...
W: Rest
T: Works - Did loads, felt hard!
F: Heeley bloc with daughter, couldn't touch the traverse!
S: Nowt
S: Depot - Comp problems and pink circuit (V3-V5) - Did most problems 1st or 2nd go (and if it seemed like it was gonna take more than that just didn't bother) but flagged towards the end of the circuit... Tired!

Good week of PE and Power volume (although looking at Sunday I'm thinking I should have tried harder problems with less volume)... Came to the conclusion a few weeks ago that I'm okay on indoor routes up to F7a+/b but need some more power and PE to do owt harder... Doesn't help that I find indoor bouldering completely uninspiring at the mo - if I can't flash it I really cannot be arsed  ... The Sheaf bloc, however, is bloody brilliant!

Verdon next week with Jus so will just do whatever this week as I'm probably going to spend the whole week crapping my pants and gibbering up F6's... Ace!!

[Snoops]

M (early am) -  “There is a six hour wait y’know” said the woman in front of me. The Whittington A+E is like a posh nightclub: the door staff look you over in the queue hoping they can say you’re wasting your time. The clipboard wielder took one glance at my sausage foot and ushered me forward. My name was on the list and I was coming in! Lots of investigations, the main finding being my CRP was 289 (blood marker for inflammation; 2 is normal, 10 is high). Diagnosis: cellulitis of unknown origin. I spent the rest of the night there on an IV antibiotic drip.
T - F - Daily IV antibiotics. Leg deteriorated a bit.
S - Consultant decided I probably had a saphenous vein thrombosis, added a blood thinner to the antibiotics and ordered an ultrasound to confirm. This all makes sense to me as my inner thigh was where everything first started hurting and there is a palpable cord there.
S - IV antibiotics. I did some shoulder stability exercises. Feeling a bit better?
M - Ultrasound scan. No clot detected! Sonographer says it can take time for clots to become visible. Nurse practitioner thinks it’s ‘just’ an infection. Takes me off the anticoagulants and puts me on a different antibiotic. Orders me to be less mobile and spend most of the day with my feet up. Not sure I buy all this but will comply for a couple of days. Leg still looks like a frankfurter.

Not much training this week! I could have done a bit more but, not surprisingly, didn't have much enthusiasm.

Supposed to be going to Ceuse in 10 days. Given I’m currently struggling with a flight of stairs this is highly unlikely. In theory, an infection should get better in this timescale with the right antibiotics but progress seems very slow at the moment and current medical advice is not to travel.

Duncan…get back and get a second opinion.
You can get compartment syndrome from either a tear or infection…swelling will close the veins.
Sounds a bit weird to just be an infection, and even if was (as above could cause thrombosis)
In which case you absolutely should be on heparin (blood thinners)

[duncan]

Thanks everyone

Um, this isn't NNFN! This sounds horrible, nothing obvious caused the onset?

No obvious bites, several people looked. Some dry skin cracks but these don't appear to be the focus of infection.

I drove more-or-less non-stop for six hours a week previously, which offers a possible mechanism for a thrombus.

I've got a follow-up in a couple of days and I will raise some of these points.

[Aussiegav]

Best of luck Duncan.  Speedy recovery. 

[SA Chris]

Thanks everyone

Um, this isn't NNFN! This sounds horrible, nothing obvious caused the onset?

No obvious bites, several people looked. Some dry skin cracks but these don't appear to be the focus of infection.

I drove more-or-less non-stop for six hours a week previously, which offers a possible mechanism for a thrombus.

I've got a follow-up in a couple of days and I will raise some of these points.

Sounds like bad news, my daughter seems very vulnerable to infections and started developing cellulitis after scraping her arm on a tree at school, luckily the antibiotics kicked in quickly. Hope you get over it soon.

[JohnM]

That sound horrendous and scary. Hope you have a speedy recovery Duncan.

Better late than never...

M - Trail run 33.22km +1940m

T - Can't remember?

W - Biking 32.4km

T - Trail run 7km +254m

F - Drove to France

S - Fly fishing in the Morvan.

S - Drove back from France

[James Malloch]

Supposed to be going to Ceuse in 10 days. Given I’m currently struggling with a flight of stairs this is highly unlikely. In theory, an infection should get better in this timescale with the right antibiotics but progress seems very slow at the moment and current medical advice is not to travel.

If things do improve then let me know as we will likely be out there around then. Happy to help carry ropes etc up if helpful. Not certain on our plans but all forecasts lead to Ceuse…