[JamieG]

I was thinking about popping out to check this fairly local quarry to me soon and noticed in the UKC description the landowner has asked that people don't climb here with a fairly recent update (20th April).
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cown_edge_rocks-9802/#overview

The BMC RAD database lists no access issues. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=2378

Looking at the CROW access map it looks like the edge lines right on the edge of what is considered CROW land and what is private, but I'm not sure where the quarry sits on the edge.

Not having been before, I don't know how hidden you are in the quarry, I presume on the edge you will be seen from the road, but maybe not in the quarry. What is the best approach here? Is it worth getting the access rep to get in touch with the landowner and find out what the issue is.

[mrjonathanr]

What is the best approach here? Is it worth getting the access rep to get in touch with the landowner and find out what the issue is.

I know nothing about the particulars but that sounds eminently sensible.

[JamieG]

I've sent an email to the BMC access rep for the area to see if they can shed some light on the situation. Hopefully it will get cleared up. Looking at google maps, it might be because the quarry sort of looks like it is in the middle of a field? Maybe they don't want people disturbing their sheep/cows, which is sort of fair enough I suppose.

[bolehillbilly]

I had a quick visit en route to Lancashire last year.  I parked on the corner of Monks Road, walked back south towards the Hayfield road and took a steep path up the hill then over a stile on the left.  The quarry is a sunken pit on the ridge so isn't visible from the road, a footpath runs about 20m from and parallel to the quarry, there are some great views from the path across the plain and also back to Kinder from the path.  From memory there's no access barrier to the quarry, just a rocky slope, don't remember cows but maybe sheep.  Looking on the CROW map it looks like a line of yellow goes through at least part of the quarry but could be wrong as the resolution isn't great.
If theres been a concern sounds like access rep is a good bet, it could well turn out to be the landowner worried about liability or pissed off by local youth being local youth with graffiti, litter and fires and hopefully be easily resolved by some access work. There were plenty of people on the path when I was there and it could well be a response to issues around lockdown/post lockdown use, i'd imagine it was a popular spot for a local party/gathering.
I think Fiend and tomtom both have some beta videos posted on here somewhere which will give you a flavour of the quality  .
I had a decent hour break bouldering here and a picnic on top,  tomtom's problem looked like the pick but i didn't get time to try it.
Hopefully things will get resolved, let us know how it goes.

[Fiend]

Yes the quarry is completely secluded, IIRC the only sheep you're likely to share it with are skeletal ex-sheep. I could imagine there being a problem with yoofs and fires and grafitti tho - it's not super-grim but it is that sort of location.

The one good thing to do there would be TT's problem but without the sidewall, serious gaston action. It's definitely worth a visit if you live in Charlesworth.

[JamieG]

I got a reply from the access rep and they are apparently aware of the situation. According to them the quarry isn't on access land (some of the crag is however) and the owner doesn't want climbing. So I don't know how much progress will be made there. There was also a discussion about the people being asked to leave here. https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/crag_access/cown_rocks_access_outside_glossop-746546 It seems the the owner was looking for sheep that might use the quarry for lambing.

There are also a couple reference to a local guide being published, which might have increased activity but I can't see anything online, so am not sure what they are talking about.

Cheers for the info bonehillbilly. Sounds like if you keep a low profile it might be okay. Especially once lambing is over for the year. I'd seen a couple of the videos before so that's why I thought I'd pop up. I'm pretty local living in Mossley.

[JamieG]

Cheers Fiend. Did you also have a look at the beast? Looks quite cool but apparently a bit high.

[Fiend]

Nope, definitely looks like a three star classic way to avoid the other side of the crack/groove tho 

Painted Devil direct no sidewall is the obvious project to do.

[JamieG]

Ok fair enough. I'll go have a gander one day and hide from the farmer. :-)

[Fiend]

Msg me if you do, I'll pop out and give it a look assuming my elbow isn't too bad. Nice and shady spot.

[JamieG]

Will do.

[bolehillbilly]

If you sneak in do me a grade check on Fingers Crossed too, probably a bit stiff at 6B.

[Johnny Brown]

The land is apparently joint owned by two farms. One of them sent an email to Henry about 6 weeks back, who circulated it around the local BMC access team. I think the issue was bounced back to the office as none of us knew the site.

A careful look at the map shows neither quarry nor crag are on CROW land, although were the promised review ever to happen I think a good case could be made.

Looking at photos on UKC shows graffiti etc - agree that making the case that climbers are more likely to prevent such damage would be the way to go.

[JamieG]

I've had another email from Henry Folkard (BMC access rep for the area I think) and he reckons the best plan is just to let it all quieten down and take it from there. Sounds like there wasn't an issue with climbing before, but maybe there has been an increase in activity recently (local guide released?) which is annoying the landowner. Hopefully, with a bit of time interest is likely to die down again. It isn't the most extensive venue by the looks of it, so I suspect most people will climb what they want to in a couple visits. I'll probably give it a good while before I head up. Definitely until lambing is over, if this is what is causing the tension.

[JamieG]

Found the local guide that has been mentioned. It's called 'Moorland Grit – New routes and Bouldering in the North-West Peak District', was published last year and seems to cover a lot of the areas around Glossop. Presumably Cown Edge too and hence the increase in interest. Hadn't seen it before. Anyone got a copy?

[tomtom]

Surprised there have been access issues - if you go there on a sunny weekend day there are quite a few people walking around - its a popular dog walking area too...

I've always parked at the crest of Monks road, then walked along the path just above the edge (where access is not allowed - is this the actual issue?) before bearing left along a faint sunken road toward the quarry. Rock is decent quality - enough for a quick 90 min visit if you've never been. I suspect outside of lambing time there are no real issues? Oh well

[JamieG]

Cheers Tomtom. Yeah I was planning in parking in that layby when I visit. I like coming back over that road from the peak, since you get such a nice view across Manchester.

I was interested in trying out the problems on the el diablo wall, including your link up problem. Did you trying the painted devil problem or any others too? Definitely looks like it is worth a little visit if you are a local. :-)

[bolehillbilly]

Is it the Cockerel books guide? If so I looked at a copy at Wilton fest but didn't buy as it's the wrong side of the mountains for me. It would be well worth picking up if only to save some research time if you're looking for obscure local new problem potential.

[JamieG]

Yeah that’s the one. I’ve ordered a copy. Hopefully it’s got a good selection of local esoterica for me. Then we can get banned from more crags. 

[cheque]

Found the local guide that has been mentioned. It's called 'Moorland Grit – New routes and Bouldering in the North-West Peak District', was published last year and seems to cover a lot of the areas around Glossop. Presumably Cown Edge too and hence the increase in interest. Hadn't seen it before. Anyone got a copy?

Yeah I’ve got it, I also have the even more niche (and basically a Pamphlet- it covers three crags) “Recent Developments in and around Saddleworth” that came out even more recently. Probably good for the local who’s bored of all the longer-established venues in the area but neither have tempted me to visit any of the crags covered yet.

[JamieG]

Found the local guide that has been mentioned. It's called 'Moorland Grit – New routes and Bouldering in the North-West Peak District', was published last year and seems to cover a lot of the areas around Glossop. Presumably Cown Edge too and hence the increase in interest. Hadn't seen it before. Anyone got a copy?

Yeah I’ve got it, I also have the even more niche (and basically a Pamphlet- it covers three crags) “Recent Developments in and around Saddleworth” that came out even more recently. Probably good for the local who’s bored of all the longer-established venues in the area but neither have tempted me to visit any of the crags covered yet.

Sounds great. I can spend ages looking at details, problems and photos of crags I’ll never visit.

[steveri]

BMC RAD has now been updated to say: “The landowner unfortunately doesn't allow climbing at the crag.”

[tomtom]

Cheers Tomtom. Yeah I was planning in parking in that layby when I visit. I like coming back over that road from the peak, since you get such a nice view across Manchester.

I was interested in trying out the problems on the el diablo wall, including your link up problem. Did you trying the painted devil problem or any others too? Definitely looks like it is worth a little visit if you are a local. :-)

The hardest problem there - that may be painted devil (up off two small crimps) feels impossible without the block/sidewall to the right - and with it is too easy/a different problem. It’s had no repeats (I think) so may just be made up…

The Cockerel guide arrived yesterday - and whilst it may be good if you want sub E2 route and Sub F6B problems anything harder it’s not too much use (got nothing I think). Ok for finding estotetica and maybe some armchair project spotting but I may not open it again…. 🤷‍♂️

Shame about the access. I expect on a chilly autumn midweek no one would notice - access to the quarry is almost completely out of sight… I’d chance it if I had any pressing unfinished business there.. 😁

[tomtom]

(Re-read and the above sounds a bit snarky re guidebook - it’s fine just not quite what I was expecting..)

[JamieG]

Yeah, agree about the guidebook. Good for pointing you at new places but not much for the keen boulderer. I’ll definitely have to make a trip up there  Good to know it’s easy to hide. Seems like some of the older established problems are a bit/very soft, but that will get ironed out with time.