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Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022 (Read 3180 times)

shark

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Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 08, 2022, 12:18:20 pm
11.8-10 average 163.4 up 0.1lb

M. Drive back from Devon

T. AM Home warm up. PM Tor. Close, muggy, greasy - meh. Played around on Bens but linking crux section not on cards.

W.

T. Home warm up. Planned to rest but Donie called and we went to Stoney. Went on Dies Irae E2 which I remember waltzing up BITD but that was then. Had some foot slips on starting crack and then got pumped and scared crossing bulge so scuttled back and rested on a wire. Scared on top section and took ages to commit to move to peg and escaped left from there. Traumatic.
Donie stick clipped the peg on Kellogg and we both failed to make much of an impression on the boulder problem starting wall. 6c?. Don’t know if key holds have changed. Not tried it before but my understanding was that it climbed the wall because the groove directly below the peg was harder but in fact the groove is easier and is now the described start of Nice in Nice. 🤷‍♂️

F. High Tor with Simon King. He led Flaky Wall. Nice to follow this and felt steady on it throughout but not yet up to leading it again. I went on Darius. Took a long time but managed to it clean with manageable levels of trauma. Almost enjoyed it. Took the old school excursion right and back left to avoid the hardest section of the upper groove. Was a bit sketchy and had to try hard at the top. First time I did was in 1984!

S.

S.

Not done much trad climbing in last 5 years and finding it tough getting back into it. Hard not to make comparisons how I used to fare on trad routes. Not going to LPT this week so will climb local again and looking forward to trying Bens tomorrow (conditions look good) and then a couple more trad outings later in the week hopefully.

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#1 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 08, 2022, 01:02:48 pm
Thanks Shark.
Darius is a brilliant route. There’s about 6 amazing routes in that area that I can think of.

Deload Week. Which was timely after last the knee went again on Sunday. Spent the first 4 days of the week back on crutches. Felt better on Thursday, but not as it was prior to Sunday. Getting annoyed with it now.

Monday -
Rest day

Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday -
Rest day

Thursday -
10s hangs 4 with 10kg

Friday - rest day

Saturday -

Went to the School to see if I could do any easier climbing & a fingerboard & conditioning session
Warmed fingers up with feet on traverses using a 8:4 repeater timer. This was a really good warm up exercise.

Tried to do a easy warm up but knee wouldn’t cooperate. So I spent about 30 mins trying single moves on the 2019 board. My knee wasn’t feeling normal and I wasn’t going to risk pushing it hard. But my fingers got warmed up enough for the fingerboard.

Fingerboard session
2x10s hangs BW + 4kg
4x10s hangs BW+8kg
The 20mm edge on the Armstrong board feels smaller than the lattice edge.

Conditioning – 2min rests between reps

4x3 tuck pull ups. These feel hard still.

Bench Press
1set of 8 bar + 30kg (50kg)
4 sets of 4 bar + 55kg (75kg) noticing strength gains now. Could go up but I’ll consolidate these weight for now.

Pull ups
2sets of 4 BW
4sets of 4 BW plus 8kg

Overhead press
1sets of 10 bar only
3 sets of 8 30kg

Sunday - Rest day taking the youngest to Burbage North this afternoon as he wants to climb outside.

Got an appointment with the Knee Surgeon on Tuesday. Hoping I get a date for the arthroscopy

James Malloch

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#2 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 08, 2022, 07:21:09 pm
M. Drove to campsite near Barcelona. Went to the beach and found a nice seafood tapas place for dinner.

T. Long day in Barcelona. Went to a cafe that sounded fancy. Coffee was crap, pancakes were good. Went to the main cafe recommendation - amazing coffee and stocked up on lots of nice beans. First real cappuccino for 3-4 weeks. Loved it. Rest of barcalona was nice.

W. Drove to Mont Roig Del Camp. Pretty place to stay.

T. Bouldered at Mont Roig. Did about 10 problems from 6A+ to 6B+. Fun to potter around and chill. Stayed another night.

F. Drove to Margalef and went to Cruample 4 sector. Went up Fanatic 7a+ and got it first RP. Nice long route and good recommendation. Never felt like I’d fall but felt like a bit of a battle as I didn’t really sus a proper sequence. Went to another sector, didn’t find it, had lunch and decided to head home.

S. Back to the sector we didn’t find. Onsighted some fun routes (2x6b and 2x6c).

S. Went to Espadelles and did a really nice 6c+ called Kagaito Sakapoko. Got it second go. Felt harder than I expected, I guess I was tired but UKC votes are towards low 7a.

Went across to another sector opposite and tried a 7a+ called Rural Mafia. Found this really hard going bolt to bolt. Climb to a break was okay but the top half was pretty desperate (and no chalk). Managed to TR the top section with one tiny rest where I missed a hand hold. Think I’d have done it if I’d have got the right one, but fuck me it felt hard. Possibly tiredness but I wouldn’t have been surprised to have accidentally got on a 7b+.

Went back to the first sector for a 3* 6b and bottled the top as my elbows were feeling fucked (occasionally I get a weird spasm when sport climbing - today it was happening on both arms on the last route). Top roped it to finish off before a rest day tomorrow.

2 days of climbing left here before 4 days on the coast and then onto the french Alps.

Edit. Think we’re both struggling with volume. It’s a lot of climbing for us compared to usual. Hopefully have a lot more session fitness in a month or so.
« Last Edit: May 08, 2022, 07:39:09 pm by James Malloch »

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#3 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 08, 2022, 10:03:17 pm
M - TCA, planned circuits but got sucked into some more whites. Desultory go on circuit board but the hard one is too hard to be useful for anything but short PE, and the middle one is horrible. Then 12 hr night shift.
T - slept badly (~3hrs) then 12 hr night shift.
W - straight from night shift to station, train(s) to Font via London and Paris. Journey very smooth, faster and cheaper than I could have driven. Arrived mid afternoon, met gf and some mates who'd been there since last weekend. Was slightly damp from rain that morning, and I was feeling pretty broken by the lack of sleep, so just a walk in the forest that afternoon.
T -  Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...
Met the others over by the main area, did a couple more things - La Réta Franklin 7A and La Mouton 6B+, but mostly just sat and enjoyed being in the forest for the first time in ages.
F - Oiseaux, couple of goes at Action Direct (7A) but bit of a queue developed, so wandered over to the classic Satan m'Habite. Had done the stand to this years ago, but great fun repeating it (and confirming I didn't have the beans for the full line). After lunch Action Direct was free, got that done quickly, then psyched to flash Uruguay (7A). Few easier things to finish, but got sucked into trying the sit to one of them - Le Rouge-Gorge (assis). Felt full value for 6C, great full span moves to get into the stand.
S - Bois Rond, feeling pretty broken so did the full orange circuit, along with a few blues and two reds. Second half was barefoot and chalkless as I couldn't bear putting my shoes on by then! Managed to fit in La Quille (6B+) and a silly but fun dyno eliminate of it too
S - drive home

72 kg?

Excellent long weekend!

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#4 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 09, 2022, 12:08:51 am
M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

T: Hotel pool. 60 laps of the tiny (10m?) pool. First time swimming in four years, good phys.

W: G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW *2, +10lb *2, +20lb *2. Kilterboard 30deg 1V2, 3V3, 3V4. Weighted pull-ups +60lb X3 *3sets. Shoulder press, chest press 45lb X5 *3sets.

S: Boulder Canyon, Pop Rock. Warmed up and worked out the beta on Self Timer V4, sent that with some light soreness. Did the V6, Dirty Low Down first go after (different start). 4 felt hard, 6 easy…

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#5 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 09, 2022, 11:54:04 am
Missed the last couple of weeks but not a lot to report. Managed to squeeze in 3 decent woodie/fingerboard sessions between DIY, work, parenting and a trip to Center Parcs where I had the :shit:s. Had planned to climb on Saturday just gone but decided to stay home due to the overnight rain and being generally a bit knackered.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed a slight niggle in both my index fingers - bit of tenderness and swelling in the days after climbing. So I've lowered the intensity of my board sessions and moved to open handing for the time being, which seems to be working.

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#6 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 09, 2022, 01:15:57 pm
M - Westway. Short endurance (60-90 seconds) x8. Shoulder conditioning.
T - Rebuilt the loft board: 8’ x 8’ at 35°. Two or three moves at most and right now just pulling on feels hard. This is what I need to do. It will be too hot in summer but should be good over winter.
W - 10km walk.
T - Westway. Long endurance (10 mins. on / 10 mins. off x6. 300m climbing. Shoulder conditioning. Battered after this.
F - 10km walk. Booked trains and car for Ceuse.
S - Westway. Short endurance (60-90 seconds) x8.  Not firing on all cylinders. Not helped by packing two left shoes but also see tomorrow.
S - 38.4C, sweating and aches all over. Covid negative but feels exactly like how I was when I had it. First day with no exercise for 18 months.

Looks like an enforced rest week coming up.

Tempted to write an essay on getting back into trad. but the executive summary is it takes me about 25 trad. leads at a standard not too far off what I'm aiming for (E1-E3 leads if I'm aiming for E4) over not too long a period (2-3 months) before it feels like my head is not the major weakness.

Nibile

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#7 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 09, 2022, 05:07:24 pm
Power Club

Mon - achey upper back. Weights.
Tue - TBDL 80 kg x5 + 1' farmer's x12.
Wed - Lattice edge 85% x10. Bar work. Core rotations with 20 kg plate.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - board climbing, high point on current project. Still hard.
Sat - 2' wheel and thruster x10, x10.
Sun - light weights.

James Malloch

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#8 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 09, 2022, 06:06:22 pm
T -  Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...

This reminded me of the nalle video of that circuit. Just watched it again - really impressive stuff!

Nice one for doing so much of it. Black 22 looks terrifying!

Duma

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#9 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 09, 2022, 10:29:27 pm
Cheers, it has taken a loooot of visits to get this far though, and the remaining ones are 8A, 7C+, 7B+, and 7B/A+/A (depending on which book you trust), and the easier 2 are pretty scary!

Bradders

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#10 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 10, 2022, 08:05:21 am
T -  Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...

This reminded me of the nalle video of that circuit. Just watched it again - really impressive stuff!

Nice one for doing so much of it. Black 22 looks terrifying!

Ha, I had the same thought. Really impressive doing it all in a day. Kind of a shame though that Duel is included, in a way, since it's so much harder than everything else. Doesn't really make sense. Especially since the 7C+ that's included was originally 7A+ until it broke.

Just added it up and it comes to about 173 Vpoints!
« Last Edit: May 10, 2022, 08:37:08 am by Bradders »

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#11 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 10, 2022, 08:15:43 am
Last week I can't really remember exactly. I know I did quite a bit of indoor and outdoor climbing. I know I didn't get Beretta 7A+ done! So close

I did do a set of 5 weighted pullups with 30kgs added though which was cool (24, 26 and 30 were my sets I believe). And fingerboarded several times. And actually did some non-piss indoor climbing to the top of the wall. So generically positive!

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#12 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 10, 2022, 09:49:48 am
T -  Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...

This reminded me of the nalle video of that circuit. Just watched it again - really impressive stuff!

Nice one for doing so much of it. Black 22 looks terrifying!

Ha, I had the same thought. Really impressive doing it all in a day. Kind of a shame though that Duel is included, in a way, since it's so much harder than everything else. Doesn't really make sense. Especially since the 7C+ that's included was originally 7A+ until it broke.

Just added it up and it comes to about 173 Vpoints!

I should punter you for even thinking of V grades when on the subject of one of the most classic circuits!

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#13 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 10, 2022, 11:00:21 am
M - Indoor bouldering sesh. Good session - managed to finish a few boulders I couldn't even do the moves on a couple of weeks back.Got up most stuff I tried apart from stuff that was too intense on the right knee. Weights.

T - Hill training - up the trail following the gondola x 3 - 20km +2,606m.

W - Getting pumped session. A new session I am trying at least once a week where the aim is too get pumped. Easy! Various traversing around on the spray wall + 3 sets of foot on campus laddering. Weights.

T - Serious muscle soreness after Wednesday's hill session so decided to do an easy bike ride. Turned out to be a brutally hard bike ride as I inadvertently cycled down into a deep valley and had to grind out almost a vertical kilometer in 12km to get back out.

F - Indoor bouldering + weights. Trail run 10.3km +392m.

S - Short hike 6.68km +253m.

S - Bouldering + indoor routes (7a, 7b, 7c+ (fail), 7a+, 7a+, 7a+ (fail)).

Bradders

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#14 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 10, 2022, 11:27:32 am
T -  Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...

This reminded me of the nalle video of that circuit. Just watched it again - really impressive stuff!

Nice one for doing so much of it. Black 22 looks terrifying!

Ha, I had the same thought. Really impressive doing it all in a day. Kind of a shame though that Duel is included, in a way, since it's so much harder than everything else. Doesn't really make sense. Especially since the 7C+ that's included was originally 7A+ until it broke.

Just added it up and it comes to about 173 Vpoints!

I should punter you for even thinking of V grades when on the subject of one of the most classic circuits!

Yeah my bad, I felt slightly dirty whilst writing that post.

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#15 Re: Power Club 633 2-8 May 2022
May 10, 2022, 01:21:02 pm
Missed the post Sunday as was really feeling the affects of my friends 30th the night before..

S:
Felt as stiff as a board following 6 hours bouldering Saturday. Rested all day had a big roast for dinner.

M:
Went for a short session bouldering at Mother Cap and finally ticked off Conan The Librarian 6b+!

T:
Rest

W:
Had a strength assessment which was very interesting. Take home was I’m a weakling. Starting a training plan with the sheff climbing clinic so very interested to see the gains made over the first 6 week phase.

T:
Weather was too good to stay inside in the morning so went for a walk round Burbage and started cleaning some problems down, then had a short session at the school on my lunch just did some new problems on the 25° followed by an evening at the depot with a friend I’ve not seen for a while, so nothing too intense.

F:
Rest

 

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