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DNA, 9c, Ramirole (Read 9799 times)

SA Chris

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#25 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:25:01 am
Funny you should mention this. Just last week I dug out 3 folders of slides in the back of a cupboard (some 1000 or more) and an old slide viewer, and my daughter was fascinated and sat for ages looking through them, and referred to them as "real" pictures. I have an old slide projector in the garage somewhere, that was given to me about 10 years ago and has never been used, maybe I should dig it out. A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

jwi

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#26 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:37:25 am
Re: images. I think that most people can tell the difference between a photo and a digital illustration. Most images we get bombarded with on social media belongs to the latter category, completely destroyed by heavy-handed editing done by careless humans and banal machine learning algos.

JamieG

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#27 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 11:59:56 am
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

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#28 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 01:27:12 pm
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

You need The Carousel


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#29 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 02:21:38 pm
How flipping good does Ramirole look?! Why on earth aren't the cream of the crop there all the time instead of all the other usual suspects?

seankenny

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#30 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 02:38:12 pm
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

I’d love to see this and he isn’t even my dad!

JamieG

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#31 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 04:14:45 pm
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

You need The Carousel



Good shout. I loved Mad Men. What a show!

jwi

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#32 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 05:46:34 pm
How flipping good does Ramirole look?! Why on earth aren't the cream of the crop there all the time instead of all the other usual suspects?

Low pay-grade for high effort? Isn't that the usual explanation?

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#33 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 09:21:00 pm
How flipping good does Ramirole look?! Why on earth aren't the cream of the crop there all the time instead of all the other usual suspects?

Because it's liable to be hot in summer, risks being wet in Spring/Autumn, until recently had an approach involving fixed ropes and an ab, the accomodation options are awkward without a van or a trust find,  moving around the bottom of the crag involves moving up and down fixed ropes, and there's not much good stuff below 8a if your belayer doesn't climb hard... So while it's awesome, it's not a chilled and easy crag in the way that somewhere like Margalef, Siurana, or Rodellar is. Though that has at least some of the same challenges, and the pros should all have a van, so I guess a lot of it is just what's fashionable currently!

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#34 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:08:41 pm
Sounds like the Diamond. Does it have a bird ban? No. Unless the venue has an 8 weeks-long season and 50% of that time connies are shit due to too greasy then it's a convenience crag. Weak. Now where was that year-long French visa again...

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#35 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:12:18 pm
I did not think that the approach down the gully with the fixed ropes was particularly bad. Perhaps inconvenient for dogs.

It’s true that the crag looks incredibly hard. The nice looking lines basically starts at 8c.

abarro81

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#36 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 13, 2022, 02:31:52 pm
https://eveningsends.com/who-cares-about-the-worlds-hardest-route

"what’s popular on the Internet should not be conflated with what’s valuable or important" - someone should force every insta image to have this as a banner across the top

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#37 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 13, 2022, 11:34:31 pm
 :greed:this crag is nowhere near diamond level of approach. It's a really easy decent down a gully which is all roped up (it's easy enough that you could do it with out the ropes) and then there's about a 15meter section of via ferata then it's just walk along a path for 5 minuets and your there. I went in march and it was almost all bone dry. I didn't climb there though as everything looks too hard. The good lines looked to be around 8c and up

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#38 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 14, 2022, 10:46:37 am
If you go back, The long 8a+ on the left (Et Dieu Créa la Flamme) is fully world class. As is the long classic 8b+ right of the bowl with the hard stuff (Le Feu Occulte)

SA Chris

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#39 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 16, 2022, 08:57:40 am
Sounds less tiring approach than Ceuse.

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#40 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 23, 2022, 06:25:25 pm
Ondra post on DNA:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd6JmTzKwFJ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

interesting he mentions all Sebs routes are sandbagged

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#41 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 28, 2022, 09:27:14 am
Good photo and breakdown of DNA by Seb Bouin

https://www.instagram.com/p/CeDx8h7DZ2o

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#42 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 29, 2022, 10:54:08 pm
This series of posts by Seb has been really good to read. I've personally got so much from reading about his process and I think it's an amazing way to share what must have been such an insane personal journey for him.

Instagram was made for this. By serialising it in this way it moves away from a traditional magazine article (don't get me wrong insubscribe to Grimper and Klettern still) and away from a single Instagram post that evaporates into the ether.

He articulates each Post well and I got a lot from seeing how he approached his year in the way he worked his mental strategy, motivation, physical training, tactics..

Good stuff

 

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