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DNA, 9c, Ramirole (Read 9695 times)

jwi

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DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:10:03 pm
Sébastien Bouin has finally done DNA, his longstanding project in Ramirole, tentatively given 9c

https://www.instagram.com/p/CdLWSLMDKgt/

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#1 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:11:42 pm
9c and looks utterly class. Bravo.

jwi

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#2 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:12:34 pm
I was hoping that it would be given 9b+/c, but you cannot get everything you wish for.

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#3 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:16:05 pm
He kind of has without actually writing it down.

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#4 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:45:49 pm
Looks incredible - is there much else on that wall?

I was hoping that it would be given 9b+/c, but you cannot get everything you wish for.
Because slash grades are amusing? Or something else

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#5 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:54:58 pm
Looks incredible - is there much else on that wall?

I was hoping that it would be given 9b+/c, but you cannot get everything you wish for.
Because slash grades are amusing? Or something else

Because Seb has a penchant for them and it drives the editor of Grimper Magazine nuts.

More seriously, even though Seb Bouin has done about 30 routes 9a+ or harder, 10 of those first ascents, not one of his harder routes has been repeated. They have not even attracted any serious attempts AFAIK. (A few of his 9as have been repeated by various local climbers)

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#7 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 05:57:39 pm
They have not even attracted any serious attempts AFAIK.

Now when I think about it, Hugo Parmentier has actually tried La Rage d'Adam

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#8 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 09:45:44 am
I wonder which of the suitor will step up first; Ondra, Ghisolfi, Megos?

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#9 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 09:46:10 am
They have not even attracted any serious attempts AFAIK.

Now when I think about it, Hugo Parmentier has actually tried La Rage d'Adam

Well, I suppose AO did also try it, pre-conception as it were  ;D

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#10 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 10:27:55 am
DNA 9c for Seb??

Glad 9cs and 9As are coming thick and fast this decade. More like the future we all hoped for.

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#11 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 11:41:08 am
I wonder which of the suitor will step up first; Ondra, Ghisolfi, Megos?

Surely Ondra has to step up to the plate and try to repeat someone else’s 9c!?

Though ghisolfi seems to be more psyched on repeats…

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#12 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 11:51:22 am
Bosi as rank outsider?

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#13 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 12:21:46 pm
Bosi as rank outsider?

Too much beauty in the Verdon. He’d get distracted with the views.

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#14 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 01:49:17 pm
He's from Edinburgh, he's seen all the beauty he needs to for a lifetime

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#15 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 08:18:28 am
I think Ghisolfi has expressed an interest in trying Silence this year around his competition commitments.

It is to be hoped that the world's elite do make the effort to try it and get the graded confirmed, or otherwise.

I wonder if there will be a video of the send. I suppose Seb may have got fed up of setting up his tripod 250+ times. Or maybe there was a film crew lurking about.

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#16 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 10:21:40 am
Is Ramirole a pain to get to, or wet all the time? Does seem odd that Sebs routes there have seen so little interest.
At least if Ondra has moved to Arco he's a bit closer than from Brno.

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#17 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 10:37:51 am
Looks like an amazing wall!

Interesting to see a comparison with Silence.

DNA: 8c sport into 8A Boulder into 8A+ Boulder into an 8c+ Sport

Silence: 8b sport into a hard 8C Boulder into an 8B Boulder into a 7C+ Boulder.

Both sound brick hard. I guess that rests etc play a big part in the difference between the Boulder grades needed for equivalent overall grades. I was a bit surprised to see how different the “hardest” parts were.

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#18 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 10:40:16 am
Is there anyone else than Ondra and Schubert who have the necessary endurance levels for DNA, if Seb's breakdown is correct? Anyone who wants to do it need to be able to climb 8c well within the lactate threshold. (Which is actually correct according to what my tables says about a well-rounded 9c climber's stamina).

Is Ramirole a pain to get to, or wet all the time? Does seem odd that Sebs routes there have seen so little interest.
At least if Ondra has moved to Arco he's a bit closer than from Brno.

Ramirole is climbable most of the year except winter. It seeps after long spells of rain of course, but anytime during April-October should be mostly fine. It is fairly popular among strong French climbers in the summer as far as I understand.

Seb's routes at Pic Saint-Loup should be climbable most of the year but preferably in spring and autumn, and his route in Russan is always dry but should probably only be attempted in December-February.

The issue with Ramirole is that it is not obvious to me where to stay.

I am keen to go to Ramirole this summer to check out... eh... easier routes. I have only been there one single day, but I realise that staying in La Palud is not doable as it is too far to drive every day, especially in the summer (the traffic!). The places around the Lac de Sainte-Croix (Moustiers etc) are a bit too popular in the summer and too expensive as well. I don't have a van and I am not planing to camp. The left bank of Verdon is pretty empty of human habitats. Anyone has some ideas?
« Last Edit: May 07, 2022, 10:51:02 am by jwi »

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#19 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 12:10:00 pm
It is a flippin’ brilliant looking cave and cool the hardest route in France is back at where it all began.



The issue with Ramirole is that it is not obvious to me where to stay.

I am keen to go to Ramirole this summer to check out... eh... easier routes. I have only been there one single day, but I realise that staying in La Palud is not doable as it is too far to drive every day, especially in the summer (the traffic!). The places around the Lac de Sainte-Croix (Moustiers etc) are a bit too popular in the summer and too expensive as well. I don't have a van and I am not planing to camp. The left bank of Verdon is pretty empty of human habitats. Anyone has some ideas?


Studio in Trigance for €75, 20 mins. to the Tunnel du Fayet parking.

Provence in summer isn’t going to be cheap…(Edit: as I don’t need to tell you!).

« Last Edit: May 07, 2022, 12:28:25 pm by duncan »

jwi

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#20 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 12:19:51 pm
The eponymous route Ramirole looks absolutely insane. If I could onsight 8b it would on top of my lists of multi pitch routes to try in the world.

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#21 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 06:13:00 pm
Ramirole is climbable most of the year except winter. It seeps after long spells of rain of course, but anytime during April-October should be mostly fine. It is fairly popular among strong French climbers in the summer as far as I understand.

Unless it's a wet year.. we went in Sept 2018 and it was mostly wet. Usually Sept/early Oct sounds like a decent bet though (or summer if it's cool or you're well adapted to the heat).
I think without a van you have to suck up a drive, either from Palud or I think maybe staying to the south would work - Bargemon looks to have a few things on airbnb.
Apparently there's a new walk in that avoid the fixed ropes and is a more chilled approach too (coming from the East somehow)

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#23 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:06:41 am
Good write up

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#24 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:12:35 am
https://eveningsends.com/who-cares-about-the-worlds-hardest-route

The deluge of information we constantly bombard ourselves with tends to desensitise! But I do think there's more to it; social media specifically makes things more unmemorable.

Perhaps on a related note, I recently caught myself gazing at an unremarkable 35mm film print for almost 10 minutes, enjoying the softness, grain, and 'flaws'. I flick past hundreds of technically excellent, high resolution digital stills without a seconds pause on a day to day basis. They're just not very tangible. 

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#25 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:25:01 am
Funny you should mention this. Just last week I dug out 3 folders of slides in the back of a cupboard (some 1000 or more) and an old slide viewer, and my daughter was fascinated and sat for ages looking through them, and referred to them as "real" pictures. I have an old slide projector in the garage somewhere, that was given to me about 10 years ago and has never been used, maybe I should dig it out. A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

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#26 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:37:25 am
Re: images. I think that most people can tell the difference between a photo and a digital illustration. Most images we get bombarded with on social media belongs to the latter category, completely destroyed by heavy-handed editing done by careless humans and banal machine learning algos.

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#27 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 11:59:56 am
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

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#28 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 01:27:12 pm
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

You need The Carousel


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#29 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 02:21:38 pm
How flipping good does Ramirole look?! Why on earth aren't the cream of the crop there all the time instead of all the other usual suspects?

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#30 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 02:38:12 pm
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

I’d love to see this and he isn’t even my dad!

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#31 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 04:14:45 pm
A projected slide seems to hold a luminary magic that is hard to reproduce.

Absolutely this! When I was a kid, my Dad used to occasionally bring back a projector from work and show us his slides from his time spent working in Antarctica at the end of the 70s. Absolutely loved it! The memory of the dimmed lights and grainy photos of penguins, icebergs, weather balloons etc is bring back some strong nostalgia. The clunk of advancing slides, the occasional upside down one, my dad telling stories. It seemed so magical, like a window into another world! Amazing! Maybe I'll have to get him to do it again sometime.

You need The Carousel



Good shout. I loved Mad Men. What a show!

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#32 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 05:46:34 pm
How flipping good does Ramirole look?! Why on earth aren't the cream of the crop there all the time instead of all the other usual suspects?

Low pay-grade for high effort? Isn't that the usual explanation?

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#33 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 09:21:00 pm
How flipping good does Ramirole look?! Why on earth aren't the cream of the crop there all the time instead of all the other usual suspects?

Because it's liable to be hot in summer, risks being wet in Spring/Autumn, until recently had an approach involving fixed ropes and an ab, the accomodation options are awkward without a van or a trust find,  moving around the bottom of the crag involves moving up and down fixed ropes, and there's not much good stuff below 8a if your belayer doesn't climb hard... So while it's awesome, it's not a chilled and easy crag in the way that somewhere like Margalef, Siurana, or Rodellar is. Though that has at least some of the same challenges, and the pros should all have a van, so I guess a lot of it is just what's fashionable currently!

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#34 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:08:41 pm
Sounds like the Diamond. Does it have a bird ban? No. Unless the venue has an 8 weeks-long season and 50% of that time connies are shit due to too greasy then it's a convenience crag. Weak. Now where was that year-long French visa again...

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#35 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:12:18 pm
I did not think that the approach down the gully with the fixed ropes was particularly bad. Perhaps inconvenient for dogs.

It’s true that the crag looks incredibly hard. The nice looking lines basically starts at 8c.

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#36 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 13, 2022, 02:31:52 pm
https://eveningsends.com/who-cares-about-the-worlds-hardest-route

"what’s popular on the Internet should not be conflated with what’s valuable or important" - someone should force every insta image to have this as a banner across the top

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#37 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 13, 2022, 11:34:31 pm
 :greed:this crag is nowhere near diamond level of approach. It's a really easy decent down a gully which is all roped up (it's easy enough that you could do it with out the ropes) and then there's about a 15meter section of via ferata then it's just walk along a path for 5 minuets and your there. I went in march and it was almost all bone dry. I didn't climb there though as everything looks too hard. The good lines looked to be around 8c and up

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#38 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 14, 2022, 10:46:37 am
If you go back, The long 8a+ on the left (Et Dieu Créa la Flamme) is fully world class. As is the long classic 8b+ right of the bowl with the hard stuff (Le Feu Occulte)

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#39 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 16, 2022, 08:57:40 am
Sounds less tiring approach than Ceuse.

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#40 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 23, 2022, 06:25:25 pm
Ondra post on DNA:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cd6JmTzKwFJ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

interesting he mentions all Sebs routes are sandbagged

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#41 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 28, 2022, 09:27:14 am
Good photo and breakdown of DNA by Seb Bouin

https://www.instagram.com/p/CeDx8h7DZ2o

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#42 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 29, 2022, 10:54:08 pm
This series of posts by Seb has been really good to read. I've personally got so much from reading about his process and I think it's an amazing way to share what must have been such an insane personal journey for him.

Instagram was made for this. By serialising it in this way it moves away from a traditional magazine article (don't get me wrong insubscribe to Grimper and Klettern still) and away from a single Instagram post that evaporates into the ether.

He articulates each Post well and I got a lot from seeing how he approached his year in the way he worked his mental strategy, motivation, physical training, tactics..

Good stuff

 

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