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DNA, 9c, Ramirole (Read 9699 times)

jwi

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DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:10:03 pm
Sébastien Bouin has finally done DNA, his longstanding project in Ramirole, tentatively given 9c

https://www.instagram.com/p/CdLWSLMDKgt/

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#1 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:11:42 pm
9c and looks utterly class. Bravo.

jwi

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#2 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:12:34 pm
I was hoping that it would be given 9b+/c, but you cannot get everything you wish for.

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#3 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:16:05 pm
He kind of has without actually writing it down.

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#4 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:45:49 pm
Looks incredible - is there much else on that wall?

I was hoping that it would be given 9b+/c, but you cannot get everything you wish for.
Because slash grades are amusing? Or something else

jwi

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#5 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 02:54:58 pm
Looks incredible - is there much else on that wall?

I was hoping that it would be given 9b+/c, but you cannot get everything you wish for.
Because slash grades are amusing? Or something else

Because Seb has a penchant for them and it drives the editor of Grimper Magazine nuts.

More seriously, even though Seb Bouin has done about 30 routes 9a+ or harder, 10 of those first ascents, not one of his harder routes has been repeated. They have not even attracted any serious attempts AFAIK. (A few of his 9as have been repeated by various local climbers)

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jwi

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#7 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 05, 2022, 05:57:39 pm
They have not even attracted any serious attempts AFAIK.

Now when I think about it, Hugo Parmentier has actually tried La Rage d'Adam

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#8 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 09:45:44 am
I wonder which of the suitor will step up first; Ondra, Ghisolfi, Megos?

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#9 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 09:46:10 am
They have not even attracted any serious attempts AFAIK.

Now when I think about it, Hugo Parmentier has actually tried La Rage d'Adam

Well, I suppose AO did also try it, pre-conception as it were  ;D

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#10 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 10:27:55 am
DNA 9c for Seb??

Glad 9cs and 9As are coming thick and fast this decade. More like the future we all hoped for.

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#11 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 11:41:08 am
I wonder which of the suitor will step up first; Ondra, Ghisolfi, Megos?

Surely Ondra has to step up to the plate and try to repeat someone else’s 9c!?

Though ghisolfi seems to be more psyched on repeats…

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#12 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 11:51:22 am
Bosi as rank outsider?

Adam Lincoln

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#13 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 12:21:46 pm
Bosi as rank outsider?

Too much beauty in the Verdon. He’d get distracted with the views.

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#14 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 06, 2022, 01:49:17 pm
He's from Edinburgh, he's seen all the beauty he needs to for a lifetime

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#15 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 08:18:28 am
I think Ghisolfi has expressed an interest in trying Silence this year around his competition commitments.

It is to be hoped that the world's elite do make the effort to try it and get the graded confirmed, or otherwise.

I wonder if there will be a video of the send. I suppose Seb may have got fed up of setting up his tripod 250+ times. Or maybe there was a film crew lurking about.

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#16 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 10:21:40 am
Is Ramirole a pain to get to, or wet all the time? Does seem odd that Sebs routes there have seen so little interest.
At least if Ondra has moved to Arco he's a bit closer than from Brno.

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#17 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 10:37:51 am
Looks like an amazing wall!

Interesting to see a comparison with Silence.

DNA: 8c sport into 8A Boulder into 8A+ Boulder into an 8c+ Sport

Silence: 8b sport into a hard 8C Boulder into an 8B Boulder into a 7C+ Boulder.

Both sound brick hard. I guess that rests etc play a big part in the difference between the Boulder grades needed for equivalent overall grades. I was a bit surprised to see how different the “hardest” parts were.

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#18 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 10:40:16 am
Is there anyone else than Ondra and Schubert who have the necessary endurance levels for DNA, if Seb's breakdown is correct? Anyone who wants to do it need to be able to climb 8c well within the lactate threshold. (Which is actually correct according to what my tables says about a well-rounded 9c climber's stamina).

Is Ramirole a pain to get to, or wet all the time? Does seem odd that Sebs routes there have seen so little interest.
At least if Ondra has moved to Arco he's a bit closer than from Brno.

Ramirole is climbable most of the year except winter. It seeps after long spells of rain of course, but anytime during April-October should be mostly fine. It is fairly popular among strong French climbers in the summer as far as I understand.

Seb's routes at Pic Saint-Loup should be climbable most of the year but preferably in spring and autumn, and his route in Russan is always dry but should probably only be attempted in December-February.

The issue with Ramirole is that it is not obvious to me where to stay.

I am keen to go to Ramirole this summer to check out... eh... easier routes. I have only been there one single day, but I realise that staying in La Palud is not doable as it is too far to drive every day, especially in the summer (the traffic!). The places around the Lac de Sainte-Croix (Moustiers etc) are a bit too popular in the summer and too expensive as well. I don't have a van and I am not planing to camp. The left bank of Verdon is pretty empty of human habitats. Anyone has some ideas?
« Last Edit: May 07, 2022, 10:51:02 am by jwi »

duncan

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#19 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 12:10:00 pm
It is a flippin’ brilliant looking cave and cool the hardest route in France is back at where it all began.



The issue with Ramirole is that it is not obvious to me where to stay.

I am keen to go to Ramirole this summer to check out... eh... easier routes. I have only been there one single day, but I realise that staying in La Palud is not doable as it is too far to drive every day, especially in the summer (the traffic!). The places around the Lac de Sainte-Croix (Moustiers etc) are a bit too popular in the summer and too expensive as well. I don't have a van and I am not planing to camp. The left bank of Verdon is pretty empty of human habitats. Anyone has some ideas?


Studio in Trigance for €75, 20 mins. to the Tunnel du Fayet parking.

Provence in summer isn’t going to be cheap…(Edit: as I don’t need to tell you!).

« Last Edit: May 07, 2022, 12:28:25 pm by duncan »

jwi

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#20 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 12:19:51 pm
The eponymous route Ramirole looks absolutely insane. If I could onsight 8b it would on top of my lists of multi pitch routes to try in the world.

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#21 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 07, 2022, 06:13:00 pm
Ramirole is climbable most of the year except winter. It seeps after long spells of rain of course, but anytime during April-October should be mostly fine. It is fairly popular among strong French climbers in the summer as far as I understand.

Unless it's a wet year.. we went in Sept 2018 and it was mostly wet. Usually Sept/early Oct sounds like a decent bet though (or summer if it's cool or you're well adapted to the heat).
I think without a van you have to suck up a drive, either from Palud or I think maybe staying to the south would work - Bargemon looks to have a few things on airbnb.
Apparently there's a new walk in that avoid the fixed ropes and is a more chilled approach too (coming from the East somehow)

jwi

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#23 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:06:41 am
Good write up

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#24 Re: DNA, 9c, Ramirole
May 12, 2022, 10:12:35 am
https://eveningsends.com/who-cares-about-the-worlds-hardest-route

The deluge of information we constantly bombard ourselves with tends to desensitise! But I do think there's more to it; social media specifically makes things more unmemorable.

Perhaps on a related note, I recently caught myself gazing at an unremarkable 35mm film print for almost 10 minutes, enjoying the softness, grain, and 'flaws'. I flick past hundreds of technically excellent, high resolution digital stills without a seconds pause on a day to day basis. They're just not very tangible. 

 

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