[harrison]

A friend told me about this this weekend, see the comments in the feedback section here https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gardoms_edge-95/marks_roof_left-hand-28951

I doubt it can be repaired but it sounds like the hold is still there if anyone can check it out.

Sounds like a pretty daft way to break it.

[User deactivated.]

If they managed a solid 5 seconds in half crimp i'll let them off

[Carliios]

I think that was Adam taking the piss. It broke off whilst we were climbing it and yeah not sure there’s much chance of it getting glued back on but we left it there in case someone wanted to try (we would try and fix it but have no clue how to glue holds so would likely just fuck it up). At least it’s not a giveaway at 6C+ anymore, actually feels on grade now 

[Bradders]

Which one is it? Doesn't sound like it's the flake near the top thankfully, always thought that was ripe for breaking.

Anyway, perhaps you could learn how to do it Carlos?

[Wellsy]

BID agreed its now worth the grade and I definitely thought it was soft before so it's probably made the problem better tbh!

[User deactivated.]

BID agreed its now worth the grade and I definitely thought it was soft before so it's probably made the problem better tbh!

This makes no sense. I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt that you're not trying to say harder automatically equals better, but if the grade being out is a problem then a downgrade would have been favorable to hold breakage!

On a separate note, I thought this problem was actually better than the more famous Mark's roof to the right.

[Carliios]

Which one is it? Doesn't sound like it's the flake near the top thankfully, always thought that was ripe for breaking.

Anyway, perhaps you could learn how to do it Carlos?

I have actually been looking into hold repair, I just didn’t want to jump into it with a more complex repair. Unfortunately the flakes on the side of marks roof are just very brittle, not sure it’s fixable :/

[Wellsy]

BID agreed its now worth the grade and I definitely thought it was soft before so it's probably made the problem better tbh!

This makes no sense. I'm going to give you the benefit of the doubt that you're not trying to say harder automatically equals better, but if the grade being out is a problem then a downgrade would have been favorable to hold breakage!

On a separate note, I thought this problem was actually better than the more famous Mark's roof to the right.

Sorry, I should have said more appropriate for for grade, yes. It probably would be "better" for it to have remained the same and got 6C but at 6C+ it is now apparently quite stiff and potentially worth the original 7A grade.

[Bonjoy]

Went for a look. The remaining hold was okay but the flake coming off underneath looked to have made the remaining bit vulnerable to also breaking off too. So have stuck the hold back on. The rock isn't brilliant,  so I'd suggest whoever tries it first is well padded. I think it's solid though.

[Duncan campbell]

Can’t believe you have just made that problem worse Bonjoy!! 

[Carliios]

Went for a look. The remaining hold was okay but the flake coming off underneath looked to have made the remaining bit vulnerable to also breaking off too. So have stuck the hold back on. The rock isn't brilliant,  so I'd suggest whoever tries it first is well padded. I think it's solid though.

Thank you for fixing it Jon! You’re an absolute legend!

[CapitalistPunter]

Great stuff Jon, cheers.

The problem "full circle" was ruined (I think) because of the hold breakage too so its good that its back on, even if the breakage made Marks Left Hand better in the head of sandbaggers.

[BID]

My name has been used in vane in this thread. My sandbagging comments on the problems quality were not for public consumption.
I've had my fill of arguements online.

Glorious work as ever Bonjoy.

Carlos, Adam, I hope your wad child has learnt his lesson about one arm hanging crucial edges :D

[CapitalistPunter]

We will keep him tucked away in a lab to prevent any more breakages

[harrison]

Went for a look. The remaining hold was okay but the flake coming off underneath looked to have made the remaining bit vulnerable to also breaking off too. So have stuck the hold back on. The rock isn't brilliant,  so I'd suggest whoever tries it first is well padded. I think it's solid though.

I ended up there last weekend and its an awesome repair, it felt really solid and good colour matching; if you look at it you can tell, but if you're not staring right at it its not obvious - great job. Thanks Bonjoy!

Nice its back because that crimp is characteristic for the problem imo, matching the left part of the hold is meh.

Some heroes already trying to take a grade increase for the broken hold when they climbed it after it was repaired 

[Carliios]

Went for a look. The remaining hold was okay but the flake coming off underneath looked to have made the remaining bit vulnerable to also breaking off too. So have stuck the hold back on. The rock isn't brilliant,  so I'd suggest whoever tries it first is well padded. I think it's solid though.

I ended up there last weekend and its an awesome repair, it felt really solid and good colour matching; if you look at it you can tell, but if you're not staring right at it its not obvious - great job. Thanks Bonjoy!

Nice its back because that crimp is characteristic for the problem imo, matching the left part of the hold is meh.

Some heroes already trying to take a grade increase for the broken hold when they climbed it after it was repaired 

Now that it's been fixed it should probably get regraded to it's proper grade of 6C, that'll teach them for trying to take 7A! 

[steveri]

Good work!

The real problem is it needs taking off the default tick list of every aspiring boulderer.

I went back to Gardoms after a long break …13 people milling around Marks Roof. It needed a supermarket deli ticketing system.

I dunno, I’m probably a massive grouch but there’s a shortlist of stuff everyone heads to: Marks Roof, Trackside, Gorilla Warfare, Deliverance, blah…

Spread the load people, loads of quiet venues/problems just as good.

[abarro81]

Classics in being popular shocker

[Wellsy]

Went for a look. The remaining hold was okay but the flake coming off underneath looked to have made the remaining bit vulnerable to also breaking off too. So have stuck the hold back on. The rock isn't brilliant,  so I'd suggest whoever tries it first is well padded. I think it's solid though.

I ended up there last weekend and its an awesome repair, it felt really solid and good colour matching; if you look at it you can tell, but if you're not staring right at it its not obvious - great job. Thanks Bonjoy!

Nice its back because that crimp is characteristic for the problem imo, matching the left part of the hold is meh.

Some heroes already trying to take a grade increase for the broken hold when they climbed it after it was repaired 

Now that it's been fixed it should probably get regraded to it's proper grade of 6C, that'll teach them for trying to take 7A! 

I'd support that genuinely tbh

[CapitalistPunter]

It would possibably make the traffic die down a bit but I hate sandbagging culture. How will we compete with the Americans if we sandbag all our problems by 2 grades!

[BID]

We don't compete with the children. Let them play.

And CP, you're talking about 8Bs being sandbagged lol. Let us sandbag our 7As and 6Cs down here in the lower decks.

[CapitalistPunter]

True bottom feeders scurrying to downgrade classics

[Ross Barker]

Wait, there are people who actually think Mark's Roof LH is 7A in its unbroken/repaired state?

[Will Hunt]

Downgrade this problem and, like the Augean stables, tears will flow like a river through the streets of London, cleansing them of their sin.

[Fiend]

V5 in the BMC guide so 6C+. Not sure what the debate nor falsely "taking" 7A is about??