T - Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...
Quote from: Duma on May 08, 2022, 10:03:17 pmT - Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...This reminded me of the nalle video of that circuit. Just watched it again - really impressive stuff! Nice one for doing so much of it. Black 22 looks terrifying!
Quote from: James Malloch on May 09, 2022, 06:06:22 pmQuote from: Duma on May 08, 2022, 10:03:17 pmT - Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...This reminded me of the nalle video of that circuit. Just watched it again - really impressive stuff! Nice one for doing so much of it. Black 22 looks terrifying!Ha, I had the same thought. Really impressive doing it all in a day. Kind of a shame though that Duel is included, in a way, since it's so much harder than everything else. Doesn't really make sense. Especially since the 7C+ that's included was originally 7A+ until it broke. Just added it up and it comes to about 173 Vpoints!
Quote from: Bradders on May 10, 2022, 08:05:21 amQuote from: James Malloch on May 09, 2022, 06:06:22 pmQuote from: Duma on May 08, 2022, 10:03:17 pmT - Cuisiniere, late to the crag after catching up on sleep, warmed up around La Mouche while the others were working it. Then over to Mosquito Coast, aka 22 black. Amazing looking highball slab is one of the few left on the classic circuit I've not done, so was keen for a go while there was a few pads around. Sadly no send, didn't really get past halfway and we weren't making much progress so moved on. Repeated De Fin en Aiguille (30 black), so good! Thought I'd have my traditional doomed attempts at Barbatruc (28 black) while I was there, have tried this on every visit pretty much over the last 20 years, it's a one mover off good crimps to a decent edge on top of the boulder, there's even decent footholds - looks way too easy for its grade (7B). Then you pull on and it's bunched and awkward, and any attempt at upward movement is somehow instantly translated outward... Anyway, this time I finally worked out something that didn't throw me straight backwards, and a few goes later snagged the top! Massive grin, great to get something I've tried over such a long period. Only 4 left from this circuit/life goal now, if only Duel wasn't so far out of my pay grade...This reminded me of the nalle video of that circuit. Just watched it again - really impressive stuff! Nice one for doing so much of it. Black 22 looks terrifying!Ha, I had the same thought. Really impressive doing it all in a day. Kind of a shame though that Duel is included, in a way, since it's so much harder than everything else. Doesn't really make sense. Especially since the 7C+ that's included was originally 7A+ until it broke. Just added it up and it comes to about 173 Vpoints!I should punter you for even thinking of V grades when on the subject of one of the most classic circuits!