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Power Club 632 25 April - 1st May 2022 (Read 4333 times)

Jack Andrew

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Power Club 632 25 April - 1st May 2022
May 01, 2022, 10:13:23 am
Really enjoyed my climbing this week, but it’s hard work after a 2 week holiday!

Weighed in at 82.7kg on Saturday, which is good, down 2 kilos so losing that water weight. Think I’ll stick to Saturday weekly weigh ins rather than daily as when I’ve done daily before it’s got a bit too into my head and may not be healthy for me.

S:
Moon board.
4 5+
2 6a
1 6a+
1 6c
1 7a

Projected hard moves

M:
Active rest, up at 6 am drove up to burbage walked through the woods had a look for some potential FAs and found some pretty interesting lines and gave them an initial scrub.

School rooms lunch break - TRX stuff
3x8 Y flies
3x8 T flies
6x3 pull-ups with a 5 second hold at the top
1x1 16kg weighted pull-up
1x1 24kg weighted pull-up
1x1 debatable 32kg weighted pull-up (40%PB!)  chin was over bar but barely

Came up with a list of 20 problems on the Moonboard for volume training too.

T:
Sore forearms! Probably over did it on Sunday. Active rest back to Burbage North to have some attempts at one of the blocks I found, got it third go but turns out had been done back in 2019. Soul crushing.

Went for a short walk at lunch

Back for a potter around burbage west. Tried right arête on Westworld but could figure it out. Did vague nose onsight.

W:
Rest all through the day, lots of forearm stretching.
Evening session at Anston with Tom. Went to have another session on Grape Crusher, has never really been something that felt super possible before, could slap out to the lip of the roof but never held the swing, today I managed to keep the heel on and control the cut to look for the foot jam, however I ran out of power after go number 5 maybe, then just dicked about on the footless trav at 6c.

T:
Full rest day

F:
Went for an early morning board session at the school and got a real flesh wound from smacking my elbow on a sharp hold doing a dyno, completed ripped my skin open. called it a day at that point! Butterfly strips and gauze to the rescue.

S:
Weight: 82.8kg down 2kilos since Sunday. Obviously won’t maintain that rate but nice to know it’s just holiday water weight.

Met with Alex H at climbing works for a movement assessment which was really interesting. Then up to Stanage for some pottering. Did:
Virgina Arête 5+
Steep Side sit 6a
Lone slab 6a
Did a bunch of variations on the block by the path after the gate all around 5+ / 6a

S:
Woke up feeling mega sore so will be resting today/maybe going for a potter on some east boulders later on but definitely no training.

duncan

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M - Nesscliffe with Bilbo. Warmed up on Batman and Short Crack (HVS/VS) then led Pant (E1, but perhaps better as a well-padded highball). First time at this impressive crag. I can see why the popular ethic is top-rope then lead, I’m not sure I’d fancy falling onto much of the gear.
T - Clogwyn yr Oen, another new-to-me crag. Led Pinky (VS) then went soloing to keep warm. Did Kirkus’ Climb, Kirkus’ Climb Direct (an almost completely different route which should be recognised as a great Welsh mountain classic), and Slack. I don’t trust myself to do this kind of thing very often now but it’s a total pleasure.
W - Craig y Clipiau, a third new crag and a very fine one. Let Brys (HVS+) and followed Bilbo up Thin Wall Special. Chilly and feeling pretty tired so called it a day.
T - Rest day exploring the south side of The Pass, walking about 10km. Bone dry.
F - Clogwyn y Grochan with Chris. Almost warm! Brant, Kaisergebirge Wall, Wind (excellent) and Hangover (a classic of course). A late departure, a diversion, a long drive, and so to bed at 2.30am.
S - Tired. Shoulder conditioning.
S - Tired. 10km walk.

A great few days in a very dry N Wales. Bouldering conditions would have been perfect and I hope some people were able to take advantage of them. Didn’t feel in the mood for trying hard for various reasons but enjoyed puntering around and visiting new crags. I’d only been to Blaenau and the Moelwynion once before on a rainy day in late autumn when the post-industrial landscape was beyond depressing. In the Spring sunshine the spoil heaps glistened and I’m keen to revisit. The new CC guide is very good and there is plenty to go at.

A month to prepare for Ceuse.

andy popp

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That sounds like a lovely few days Duncan, I'm jealous.

Duma

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M - 8hr shift. Eve TCA, 90 min on new white set (6B+ to 7A) tried to limit myself to flash goes, with limited success. 20 problems, 14 flashes, 2 second go, 2 third go, 2 failures (2 attempts on each). Stopped early to save skin and beans for Tues
T - Cheddar, Remnant. Bit nervous as now I know I can do it. Arrived about 4:30, had been really hot in the car but crag in shade and slight breeze so connies ok. Skin pretty thin though so that was a worry. Pulled past the crux of ELOOP and dogged up the rest of it to warm up and get the clips in Empire, messed about a bit at the top to get it really wired after last week's shambles. Next go fumbled the undercut at the start, then did it! No dramas at the top, thankfully. Tips were burning, would have only got one more go at best. Very pleased, and a little bit relieved... Did the link Jack was trying (Everyday Lives into Skullduggery) afterwards by the skin of my teeth  too. He did too, so time to stop at the crown for a celebratory pint and pickled egg.
W - Run, 8k, hilly (ish) trail, 40 min. Felt a bit clumpy but not run much since Jan.
T -  8hr shift. Rest, surprised by lack of DOMS after yesterday's run
F - 8hr shift. Nothing. Should have gone to the wall.
S - dad duty. Bit of a walk I guess.
S - max hangs session at home, not done these for aaaages, was a bit of a disappointment...
At 1 minute intervals:
2 x 5 pull ups on bar
1 x 3 pull ups on lattice big edge
1 x 10s BW hang both hands big edge
2 x 10s BW hang 1 hand big edge 1 hand 20mm edge.
Then at 2 minute intervals on the 20mm edge:
2 x 10s at BW
2 x 10s at +5kg
2 x 10s at +10kg
2 x 10s at +12.5kg (really struggled here, first hang only managed 8-9s, second hang completed but dropped into chisel for last second or 2.) This was pretty shocking, I'd expect to be somewhere between 20 and 30kg for actual max (ie 5s) and close to 20kg for 10s. So I tried:
1 x 5s at +21kg (all weight I had to hand) just about managed this, but def way off a couple of years ago.
Then eased down:
1 x 10s at +12.5kg
2 x 10s at +10kg
2 x 10s at +5kg
2 x 10s at BW
2 x 2 min plank later.

72 kg. Over 72 this weekend, need to sort it.

shark

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Thanks Jack


11.8-10 average 163.3 up 0.5lbs


M. Broken

T.

W.  PM/Eve Home warmup. Tor. Fresh but no wind. More warming up. Cross thru 2 x at first attempt. Throw at first attempt twice falling going for the pinch. Third time rubbish. Then tried form start and got to pocket this time. Crag X few attempts on JR. Best go falling off crossing thru to slot in bulge. Couple of laps on easy traverse at Rubicon to finish. Good day

T

F Wanted to start some trad practice in run up to Mingulay. Donie got in touch and persuaded me to go to an obscure quarry called Intake Quarry which had a ‘three star E3’.
AM Home warm up. Beautiful day. Quarry was similar to Horseshoe. Pointed at a 6b as a warmup. It had a butch spiky wide crack at the top. Not exactly a great warmup. After a bit of faffing realised I wasn’t going to be able to style it so lowered off the top bolt. The E3 looked good. Thought it was a bit ambitious but decided to give it a go. Predictably got intimidated, scared then pumped on the crux headwall and  rested on the gear. Then got to the top. Back on the ground decided I’d been a bit lame. After Donie top roped and stripped it I re-led it placing gear without drama. Thought I’d best leave it at that ending on a high note.

S. AM Some locks on bar. Toe lifts. Set of recruitment and speed pulls. Couple of laps of foot on campusing then drove to Devon

S.

Should have been at LPT Weds-Fri but Paul called in sick last minute and I couldn’t find a replacement. Getting closer to getting solid on the crux section of Ben’s. So heavy but doesn’t seem to matter on it.



James Malloch

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M. Drove to a mountain pass near Auzat (French Pyrenees) with the intention to climb the next day.

T. The mountains & snow were too tempting so skipped climbing to do a nice big walk. Breathtaking views and definitely made the right choice. Stayed near Ax les Thermes and had a physio video call after hurting my wrist in Font. Nothing serious and have a plan so I can still try hard on the trip.

W. Made it to Margalef.

T. Led a 6A+ and 6B on Bloc du Porc. Some locals put me off some routes and we changed sectors to Finestra. Tried an amazing 6c+ with literally no chalk. Fairly new route so no real rubber either. Happy to get pretty far o/s but scared myself a little so dogged the last third. Didn’t work out sequence so opted for a top rope and went up easily. Lesson learned.

F. Went to another sector and did a 5+,  6a, 6a+ and a real bouldery 6c second go after getting scared on the O/S.

S. Rest day and walked up to the dam and back. Lots of swimming for the dog.

S. Last day before a few nights break in Barcelona. O/S 5+, 5+, 6a+, 6b and Missed a sequence on a 6c+. Got it easily second go.

Megos also reversed back over a bridge to let me pass whilst I was wearing one of his carrots for power T-shirts. Lovely moment


Not tried anything hard yet on the trip but happy with how things are going. Not taken any proper falls but feeling very happy on the terrain here. Not got pumped at all although not pushed myself yet.

Going for 2 nights in Barcelona and then probably back to Margalef for the better weather from Friday.

Any 7a-7c recommendations are welcome!
« Last Edit: May 02, 2022, 08:29:45 am by James Malloch »

Wood FT

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Go back to Finestra, go and have a go on Crucigama 7b and Montgronyeta 7b+.

Best wall there for my money and relative exchange rate.

Aussiegav

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Knee club.
A mixed week.

Monday -
Rest day

Tuesday
 School after work.
Campus board pulls 2-5- match on 22mm &18mm edges

Warm up 4 problems 3min rests.
Can’t crimp won’t crimp (2016)
Calentamiento (2016)
Wife’s Rath 2nd try
CJ Rocks. Didn’t do in two tries.

3x10s hangs with 8kg

Projecting on the 2019
Ladders 6a+. Did the top twice then sent first try.
KrissKross will make U Jump. 6c. I did first 2 moves. Can’t do the cross.
Tiritas. 6b. Can’t do move to F17. May need high right foot on jug. Felt hard to do with my knee.
The Easy Easy. 6b. Had a play on this in mind for a later session.
White Robe 6b. One hard campus move to big tooth. Final go linked and hit the tooth.

Pleased with the session. Did a new benchmark and worked some projects.


Wednesday -
Peloton ride 30mins. Knee felt good.


Thursday -
Rest day

Friday

Conditioning after work

Rows on the rings - 2 sets of 8 BW
4x3 tuck pull ups on the rings

Bench Press
1set of 8  50kg
4 sets of 4 70kg. These felt moderately hard, need to increase weight next session.

Pull ups
2sets of 4 BW
4sets of 4 BW plus 8kg

Overhead press (standing)
1sets of 10 bar only
3 sets of 8 30kg

Single Arm Preacher Curls
3sets of 8 10kg plus dumbbell

Single Forearm rotation
3sets of 8 2.5kg.


Saturday - rest day

Sunday -
Dawn session at the School
 
Splat Board traverses
5 feet on Campus Pulls 2-5match
22mm &18mm

5 Warm up problems on the 2019 Moonboard
3x 10s hangs BW+ 8kg.

20min send session On the 2019 Moonboard

Volvo 480. Did in two overlapping sections.

Appetiser. Pulled on about to do the pull for the crux and felt my knee got into that weird position & feeling. Instantly stopped.  Feels like something has dislodged and is stuck in my knee again.

Back on crutches.

IanP

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Go back to Finestra, go and have a go on Crucigama 7b and Montgronyeta 7b+.

Best wall there for my money and relative exchange rate.

Good routes there, Festa Fotre 7c on same wall is also excellent. 

Would also recommend Culample 4 sector in the Zona del Panta, faces E/NE, gets a bit of morning sun and then in shade all afternoon. On the left hand side is a 30m wall with 4 3* 7b+ (I've done PGB and Besame Mucho, both excellent), in the middle is another good wall with routes in the 6c+-7b range, Fanatic 7a+ is particularly good. 

JohnM

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M - Covid grimness. Short hike 6km +200m.

T -  More Covid grimness. Bit of core and shoulder stuff on the bar and some finger boarding to try and maintain some form. Had to have very long rests to get my breathing and my heart rate down! Short walk.

W -  Woke up feeling pretty good. Afternoon trail run 10.2km +402m.

T - Shoulder stuff on the bar and some finger boarding. Trail run 16.83km +588m.

F - Climbing at Geister. Felt great to be climbing outdoors again and conditions were perfect. Warmed up on a 7a+. Tried the moves on my 8a+ project there "Rose der Zeit". Got to a high point on my first redpoint but bottled a long move out to the right and grabbed the draw. Second try I fell in the crux. Finished by trying to do a 7b I had failed to get to the top of last summer in tropical conditions. Got to the last throw but couldn't move I was so pumped. Good session but I felt pretty wasted afterwards and the climbing put a lot of stress on my MCL injury.

S - Grim weather so stayed indoors all day writing an abstract and walked around the block just so I could say I left the house.

S - Trail run 28.13km +1,513m.

I seem to have shifted Covid pretty quickly which is good although I am still testing positive 10 days later. I just need my MCL to fully heal and then I am back on an even keel again after 2 injuries and illness without much break in between! 

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M: StoneSummit, Atlanta. Hangs: 20mm 7s HC & OH 2 hangs each BW. Finger still a bit sore but improving, hand seems to be irritated if wrist in full flexion in meathook-type sloper, should be easy to avoid. VBX1, V0/1X2, V1/2X5, V2/4X4. Pull-ups +50lb X3 *5sets. Shoulder press, bicep curl, chest press 40lb X6 *3sets.

W: Hotel gym. Pull-ups +60lb X3 *5sets. Shoulder press, bicep curl, chest press 45lb X5 *3sets.

S: Three Sisters. First time outside in six weeks. Various easy boulders up to V3 including a V3 dyno (leading RH)! Poor confidence in hand but it built throughout the day

S: G1. Hangs: 20mm HC 7s BW *3, 20mm OH BW *2. 20mm HC 7s +10lb *3, 20mm OH +10lb *2. First time adding weight OH! Kilterboard 20deg 1V0, 1V1, 1V2, 3V3. Shoulder press, chest press 45lb X5 *3sets. 30mins walk round Standley Lake

Wood FT

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Go back to Finestra, go and have a go on Crucigama 7b and Montgronyeta 7b+.

Best wall there for my money and relative exchange rate.

Good routes there, Festa Fotre 7c on same wall is also excellent. 

Would also recommend Culample 4 sector in the Zona del Panta, faces E/NE, gets a bit of morning sun and then in shade all afternoon. On the left hand side is a 30m wall with 4 3* 7b+ (I've done PGB and Besame Mucho, both excellent), in the middle is another good wall with routes in the 6c+-7b range, Fanatic 7a+ is particularly good.

Very good shout too.

Stabbsy

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Go back to Finestra, go and have a go on Crucigama 7b and Montgronyeta 7b+.

Best wall there for my money and relative exchange rate.

Good routes there, Festa Fotre 7c on same wall is also excellent. 

Would also recommend Culample 4 sector in the Zona del Panta, faces E/NE, gets a bit of morning sun and then in shade all afternoon. On the left hand side is a 30m wall with 4 3* 7b+ (I've done PGB and Besame Mucho, both excellent), in the middle is another good wall with routes in the 6c+-7b range, Fanatic 7a+ is particularly good. 
For 7b-c, I’d agree with Ian/Guy’s recommendations. For 7a’s, I had a good day at Punta Espadellas (to the right when you’re walking into to the main Espadellas sector) - Hattori Hanzo, the one left of it and Rural Mafia were all good. Also a good selection around Regino, Can Dit Gros and Can Dit Xic (Regino, Figaflower, Indian Summer). Lastly, the wall above the approach path at Finestra (Vells Temps and the routes next to it).

jwi

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Go back to Finestra, go and have a go on Crucigama 7b and Montgronyeta 7b+.

Best wall there for my money and relative exchange rate.

Good routes there, Festa Fotre 7c on same wall is also excellent. 

Would also recommend Culample 4 sector in the Zona del Panta, faces E/NE, gets a bit of morning sun and then in shade all afternoon. On the left hand side is a 30m wall with 4 3* 7b+ (I've done PGB and Besame Mucho, both excellent), in the middle is another good wall with routes in the 6c+-7b range, Fanatic 7a+ is particularly good. 
For 7b-c, I’d agree with Ian/Guy’s recommendations. For 7a’s, I had a good day at Punta Espadellas (to the right when you’re walking into to the main Espadellas sector) - Hattori Hanzo, the one left of it and Rural Mafia were all good. Also a good selection around Regino, Can Dit Gros and Can Dit Xic (Regino, Figaflower, Indian Summer). Lastly, the wall above the approach path at Finestra (Vells Temps and the routes next to it).

I liked everything on Cingles de la Taberna. Talibania (7a), Chulo de Bario (7b+), Man on the Moon (7b+) and Tron (7b+ or 7c if you avoid the eponymous trunk) are all great. Talibania is maybe the best 7a I've done in Margalef.

On the left hand side of Culample 4 sector I did  Whiskey Compadre (7b+) which was good.

For 7cs, the two classic 7cs on Racó de les Tenebres close to Finestra are both good. Nice to be specifically Margalef-fit for them though.

Penelope Cruz (7b+/c) on Can dit Gros is good.

Nibile

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Power Club

Mon - board climbing, project still hard. Light boxing bag.
Tue - garage session 3.
Wed - snatch x5 + 1'30" farmer's x6, 3' rests. Quite brutal.
Thu - board climbing, volume on projects.
Fri - 20' hell.
Sat - boxing bag, jog.
Sun - complete rest. Ate a lot.

James Malloch

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Go back to Finestra, go and have a go on Crucigama 7b and Montgronyeta 7b+.

Best wall there for my money and relative exchange rate.

Good routes there, Festa Fotre 7c on same wall is also excellent. 

Would also recommend Culample 4 sector in the Zona del Panta, faces E/NE, gets a bit of morning sun and then in shade all afternoon. On the left hand side is a 30m wall with 4 3* 7b+ (I've done PGB and Besame Mucho, both excellent), in the middle is another good wall with routes in the 6c+-7b range, Fanatic 7a+ is particularly good. 
For 7b-c, I’d agree with Ian/Guy’s recommendations. For 7a’s, I had a good day at Punta Espadellas (to the right when you’re walking into to the main Espadellas sector) - Hattori Hanzo, the one left of it and Rural Mafia were all good. Also a good selection around Regino, Can Dit Gros and Can Dit Xic (Regino, Figaflower, Indian Summer). Lastly, the wall above the approach path at Finestra (Vells Temps and the routes next to it).

I liked everything on Cingles de la Taberna. Talibania (7a), Chulo de Bario (7b+), Man on the Moon (7b+) and Tron (7b+ or 7c if you avoid the eponymous trunk) are all great. Talibania is maybe the best 7a I've done in Margalef.

On the left hand side of Culample 4 sector I did  Whiskey Compadre (7b+) which was good.

For 7cs, the two classic 7cs on Racó de les Tenebres close to Finestra are both good. Nice to be specifically Margalef-fit for them though.

Penelope Cruz (7b+/c) on Can dit Gros is good.

Thanks for al the recommendations- loads of options there! I think we will be back climbing on Thursday or Friday and have 7/8 days until we need to leave.

I’ll have a proper look at the guide later and work out which of those options work best for some easier routes close by too.

Fultonius

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Like most of you, nary much training...but got out a fair bit.  Still resolutely stuck at 79/80kg...

M:TCA session maybe? Flashed a few 6cs and very nearly a 7a which went 2nd go. (Silly pink with long moves on big holds, playing to my strengths a bit...)
T:Rest
W:Went to North Third with Iain to have a look at Red Shift, and E6 crack I'd tried a few years ago. Found a Raven's nest, replete with 4 young, so bailed to Cambusbarron. I'd been cleaning a route there (Moving Shadow) a few weeks ago and was keen to give it a last scrub and refine the moves. After a few top ropes I felt pretty good, and the conditions were ideal so I racked up with the 2 RPs, 2 Z4s and a few other bits for the safer top half...   Went pretty smooth, but was more pumped than expected after the first crux, so had to improvise a slightly more convoluted but lower risk sequence for the 2nd crux. Pretty chuffed to get an E6 done early in the season.
T:Rest
F: Last minute dash to Glen Nevis due to mixed up plans. Iain was working Stolen and I got acquainted with Leopold. Seems like a vaguely feasible long term project. Not used to top-roping projects, I didn't think to strip the draws on my 3rd burn. The 4th time up was a battle of attrition just yarding up to get the clips back, but I did refine some beta on the final section so it wasn't for naught. Still need to figure out a few bits.
S:Surfing at Pease Bay. I'm rubbish, but it's fun to go out once in a while. Small waves, caught some but very little genuine clean wave surfing got done... weirdly both arms flared up at my deep bicep (brachialis and/or brachioradialis).
S:Went to Glen Nevis with Si, up to Buzzard crag. He had been working an E7 called Liminality which he threw a rope on. I really shouldn't have jumped on that as a warm up...  Left brachialis/BR flared up so I just assumed belay duty - aka catching all the falls!

Need to get some mid grade trad O/S mileage (more on that in next week's instalment) and hopefully I can nip the brachialis pain in the bud before it develops.


Margalef: I really liked Freakando (6b @ Can Torxa) and there's a 7a there, that while getting a bit "well used" is good value steep pumpiness. (Chachi Qui Chapi)

Magic Festival is a great 7c, but...I got totally shut down. Had harboured hopes of having a decent stab at the onsight but actually took 3 or 4 rests and a few goes on the top crux. 25/30m of continuously overhanging with nothing harder than font6B...but lots of it! The second day I went back to it was just when I was starting to feel under the weather with Covid....

I also really enjoyed the questy wall-climbing nature of Jirs Prodigo up on Camí de L'Ermita

FYI Gelida could be good to go to on the way back to Margalef if it's not too hot. Really enjoyed the 7a/7bs there. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gelida-19008/





Fultonius

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For 7cs, the two classic 7cs on Racó de les Tenebres close to Finestra are both good. Nice to be specifically Margalef-fit for them though.


This - 100% this  ^^^

SA Chris

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S:Surfing at Pease Bay. I'm rubbish, but it's fun to go out once in a while. Small waves, caught some but very little genuine clean wave surfing got done... weirdly both arms flared up at my deep bicep (brachialis and/or brachioradialis).


Popping up while tired, I get it too. If you are feeling fresh at start of session, have your hands facing forward tuck your elbows in, if you are getting tired and your elbows are "flaring" face your hands inwards. It's when you have hands facing forwards and elbows out that you start straining the brachios. I realise it probably all happens a bit too fast to notice!

Fultonius

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S:Surfing at Pease Bay. I'm rubbish, but it's fun to go out once in a while. Small waves, caught some but very little genuine clean wave surfing got done... weirdly both arms flared up at my deep bicep (brachialis and/or brachioradialis).


Popping up while tired, I get it too. If you are feeling fresh at start of session, have your hands facing forward tuck your elbows in, if you are getting tired and your elbows are "flaring" face your hands inwards. It's when you have hands facing forwards and elbows out that you start straining the brachios. I realise it probably all happens a bit too fast to notice!

Ah, good to know. I noticed it most while paddling, but it might have been the popping up (not much of that really...) that was causing the strain.

SA Chris

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Probably a compound issue of paddling with wide arms (assuming it was a hired wide board) and fatigued pop ups.

Fultonius

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Probably a compound issue of paddling with wide arms (assuming it was a hired wide board) and fatigued pop ups.

Borrowed mini-mal. Sounds like it. I would have expected cold water and pushing / paddling to be great as rehab, but the others guys have also said they sometimes get elbow issues surfing after big climbing days.

SA Chris

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Afraid so. Knackers your skin too. Both activities!

James Malloch

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Go back to Finestra, go and have a go on Crucigama 7b and Montgronyeta 7b+.

Best wall there for my money and relative exchange rate.

Good routes there, Festa Fotre 7c on same wall is also excellent. 

Would also recommend Culample 4 sector in the Zona del Panta, faces E/NE, gets a bit of morning sun and then in shade all afternoon. On the left hand side is a 30m wall with 4 3* 7b+ (I've done PGB and Besame Mucho, both excellent), in the middle is another good wall with routes in the 6c+-7b range, Fanatic 7a+ is particularly good.

Did Fanatic today. Good recommendation, thanks! Went for an onsight to warm up but felt flash pump coming on half way up. Went bolt to bolt instead and then got it next go.

Didn’t really work out a sequence for a lot of it. Kind of felt like I wouldn’t fall off, but also a bit of a battle.

The 7B+ on the left look good. Might try to get back on them one day soon. Or one of the other recommendations. Quite keen for quick redpoints so might not be quite fit enough for some of the harder endurance ones.

Duncan campbell

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Only one way to get fit enough!

James Malloch

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Only one way to get fit enough!

Those long routes take a lot of mental energy to psyche up for, but you’re right!

I’ve not much experience of trying to keep the right side of pump, knowing you can definitely make the next moves but that you won’t feel fully secure.

The shorter bouldery routes I’ve done (6c+) here feel like a right doddle in comparison.

Wood FT

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Only one way to get fit enough!
The shorter bouldery routes I’ve done (6c+) here feel like a right doddle in comparison.

Each to their own, obviously, but we have plenty of short bouldery routes at home. Get stuck in on the longer stuff we so lack!

James Malloch

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Only one way to get fit enough!
The shorter bouldery routes I’ve done (6c+) here feel like a right doddle in comparison.

Each to their own, obviously, but we have plenty of short bouldery routes at home. Get stuck in on the longer stuff we so lack!

Yeah that’s the plan from now. The lower grade stuff limits venue choices a bit but now we’re into the swing of it a few more crags are opening up  :2thumbsup:

spidermonkey09

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 My partner and I quite often do split days at crags when the need for grade range doesn't align. Go to one crag in the morning and the other in the afternoon. Works well when you can choose crags to suit the direction of the sun etc.

Heartily second the idea of doing the long routes as well, short bouldery stuff is fine to get going but would be missing the point long term!

 

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