UKBouldering.com

[Peak][Various grit crags] [31 problems up to 8A] (Read 7807 times)

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9969
  • Karma: +568/-10
Here’s some more new ones. Ranging from the scrappy to the excellent. Thought I’d make an effort to document while the decent conditions prevail. I’ll put some more pics on insta to assist with ID.

Froggatt
Marrowfat – 7A
The left arete/prow of the Jetpack roof from a low sit start on opposing edges

Blue 48 - 7B (7A+ stand)
The right arete of the Green 45 roof from a sit start (no ledge on right at start). It’s a big move, the grade is for average height climber.

Climby Fissure - 6C
On the downhill face of the Jetpack boulder. Left to right traverse finishing up the arete. Start at the left end of the lower horizontal break (Scandalous 7B follows the upper break r to L). A reverse link of this into Scandalous is an obvious fierce project.

D for Damager – 7A
Left to right traverse of the main break on the Renegade Master block. Start sitting left of Screaming Dream, finish round the corner at the end of the break. Tricky section passing Dave’s Dyno.

Rampeau – 6B
Almost certainly done before (possibly by Mark Brigham Smith) but good and unrecorded. On the the slabby wall just under Rambeau. Climb it left of centre via the ramp (no left arete).

Wyming Brook

** Wym Crime – 7A+
Highball left arete of the righhand bit of Broken Bottle Buttress (the wall to the right is Ned’s Heinz Sight 7C). Starts on the left side and quickly moves onto the right.

Downing 10 Street – 6C
50 right of Broken Bottle Buttress is a small steep wall. Climb this from a sit start via edges and ramp to the break (topout heavily overgrown).

Padley Quarry
Longshaw Zombies – 7A+/7B
In the middle of the quarry is a fairly obvious blank slab with an undercut. Climb this till a good hold and escape left once the thin break is reached. Adam managed the more direct finish which finished by gaining the curving crack (climbed by Adam at about 6B I think, looks good) on the right. Squeezed in super-direct finish still to do. FA direct version – Adam long

Yarncliffe
Ant Another Thing - 7A
Link up on Anty Gravity block. Sit start as for Ant Agony and follow a rising diagonal to topout at the end of the sloping ledge.

Burbage North
Croissant Arete – 6C
Past Boyager, at the far end of the woods, almost as far as Three Blind Mice, is a slab with and undercut curving left arete. Climb the arete

Croissant Slab – 7A
The slab right of the arete, with a hard pull on (no pad stacking).

Lawrencefield
Pucker Off - 6A+
The left groove of Simmer Down and Pucker Up (on All the King’s Horses boulder). Fairly trivial.

Osmosis Direct - 7A
Direct version of Olly G’s arete. Stay on arete and avoid good hold round right. Decent.

Wharncliffe
Lookout Roof – 6C
Right side of Outlook Roof. Big reach and cutloose above a bit of a spicy drop off. Very reach dependant.

Curbar
These are all in the same rough area as Petit Jesu.

Bump n Grind – 6C
Sit start on flake under the little steep block directly right of Petit Jesu. Gain slopey lip and then top.

Jutland – 6B
Below Crispy Noodling is a prominent jutting block. Climb this via the good hold to an exciting finish.

* Scroll Power – 7B
Further below Crispy Noodling is an undercut prow, vaguely reminiscent of Sole Power. Climb this from stood on the shelf. Really good.

Sep Arete – 6B+
Right arete of the block right of Scroll Power, from sitting. File under random warm-up.

Scroll On – 6A
The crack left of Scroll Power is good and tougher than expected. The arete to the left is also about 6A.

Petit Jesu – This has been reclimbed since losing a hold on the lower section. I’ve also cleaned up and stabilised the other flaky bits, so should be solid and stable now. Harder and better than it was originally, but still 7a from stand or sit.

Petit Nut Crack – 6C
Link the sit start of PJ into Crunchy Nut Crack. Linky.

*Big Jesus – 7A+
Start up PJ sitter then head left at the lip to finish up juggy flutings at the apex of the block. Good, exciting. FA – Dave Parry

Skipper – 6B+
The right arete of Hopper climbed on it’s right side. Decent.

Baltic State – 6C
The far left side of the face with Big Friday on has an undercut groove. Start in the break down and right, climb up into the groove, exit right out of it. Decent.

The Beagus Has Landed – 7A+
About 30m below Petit Jesu is a steep little prow with a nice round pocket. From a low sit start on the right (easier from higher sit with hands in edgy break) work left into pocket and up the prow. Small but good.

Mono or Nono? – 7B
Little wall with drilled mono below the path, below TBHL (on the way to Ultimate Gritstone experience). Obvious hard sit start remains to be done.

Black Tor
Bella Emberg – 7A+
Fridge hugging sit start to Molly Sugden on Baby Wolverine slab.

Bitholmes Wood
See UKC database for crag description, access etc. It’s basically the woods opposite the RH end of Wharncliffe. Big crag with one really good block. All the variant are top draw, especially the harder two.
** One Redeeming Feature - 7C+
Climb the steep prow via uneven compression, from a standing start with a foot on the small stuck block at the back of the roof.
* Block Stander – 7B+
Entry level variant using both the large blocks under the roof.
* One Block Sitter – 7C
A sitter, starting on and using the largest of the base blocks only.
** Total Redemption - 8A
The full squeeze. Stand start on lowest undercut and arete below the prominent overlap. FA - Ned Feehally
« Last Edit: May 01, 2022, 08:54:34 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: Correction to LZ description »

Carliios

  • Guest
Excellent additions as always Jon!

Banana finger

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 154
  • Karma: +11/-0
  • daft lad
Quality confirmed on the Bitholmes block! I think theres another on there too. Starting for ORF but rocking onto the slab at the nose. Felt about 7b+/7c. Is this the thing Sam Catell did?

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9969
  • Karma: +568/-10
Cheers.
Yes, Sam did two versions of this, with and without block but I'm not 100% on the details. He also did two probs in a cave on the downhill side of the slope directly beneath ORD.

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9969
  • Karma: +568/-10
Quote
So I climbed 2 problems on that prow. Stand start on the right with right on nice pinch, left on undercut. Reach to the boss on the apex and rock up to the jug, 7a? I then climbed a low start with right hand on bottom of aręte and left hand on lowest undercut, 7b+ maybe 7c? . No ledges for either problem. The main project is to climb all the way using the cool  side pull left of the boss on the apex which I tried but was really reachy for me. Probs 7c+, 8a. I never had a spot for this either so felt a bit scary. It’s a great line.


There is 3 other areas near there. One is a hidden cave that you get to if you walk from the prow forwards to the hillock and is on the other side.
I can't figure how Sam's 7b+/c works from this description exactly. Seems like Total Redemption into an easier finish. Quite a sandbag at that grade if so!

Jacqusie

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 296
  • Karma: +5/-1

Padley Quarry
Longshaw Zombies – 7A+/7B
In the middle of the quarry is a fairly obvious blank slab with an undercut. Climb this till a good hold and escape. Adam managed the more direct finish which finished by gaining the curving crack (climbed by Adam at about 6B I think, looks good) on the right. Squeezed in super-direct finish still to do. FA direct version – Adam long



Good effort, cue a 2022 Padley Quarry Renaissance!


Climby Fissure is name of the bunch, I suppose it's a better than 'Climb me fissure   -  although I do now have love changes everything in my head now...

Jack Andrew

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 32
  • Karma: +5/-1
Would I be right in thinking croissant aręte / croissant slab is in the woods near the long tall Sally boulder? With a bit of an awkward tree in the way?

If so I was looking at this recently and had a few goes at the aręte, slab on its own looked heinous! Keen to get back to try it again soon.

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9969
  • Karma: +568/-10
That's the one.
Will probably rename the arete as just noticed Ned used that name at Stanage.

Jack Andrew

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 32
  • Karma: +5/-1
I did think I’d seen the name before. When I thought it was unclimbed I thought about calling it Silver Thunderbird, don’t know why!

TheMule

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Karma: +0/-0
There seems to be a bit of interest in Bitholme Woods so thought I'd post about what I've done there. I made a little video in 2018 which covers some of it.

On the ORF block I climbed 2 problems.
stand start right on arete, left on undercut. Reach to the boss then top out direct .
Low start. Right on lowest part of arete before it turns into a lip and left on lowest of 3 undercuts. Climb into the stand. No blocks.

The next area is opposite the main block on a small hill. The cave is hidden and faces outwards.
There are 2 problems in the video but also 2 other problems. These ss at back of cave on the left. One goes up the grove the other goes up and left. Both around 6c?

The next area is not in the video. Have it on my phone but don't know how to upload it. Its a small buttress on nice rock.
Approach from the main path and take your first left and go past a dragon. Follow the path into the woods and walk up hill for a few minutes until you see a hole in the wall. The buttress is above this and scramble through some holly. You can see it from the path.
Left arete ss 6a+/6b?
right arete 6b+
ss traverse from the arete up and right to niche 7a/+?
ss up the middle, no right arete for hands or feet.  Left hand undercut. right on pocket/crimp up to crimp with right and jump to the top. 7a+/b
Possibly a problem to the right.

Last area is a bit tricky to find and has one problem which is the last in the video. Quite short but well worth seeking out if you like powerful back hand moves.
Stay on the main path from the car and don't deviate for about 10/15 mins keeping the crag on your left. Then the woods open up and you'll see boulders below a plateau. climb up onto the plateau and the boulder is there. There are also a few other boulders dotted around.

As with all FA's the grades and beta will probably change.




Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
Top amount of split grades there  :2thumbsup:

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9969
  • Karma: +568/-10
Thanks Sam, that's great. I had a vid of the cave you sent me, but got lost with my old phone. Keen for Sesh Gremlin, looks like quality moves.

TheMule

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 2
  • Karma: +0/-0
Thanks. Be great to know what you think. Don’t think any of the problems have been repeated, that’s why I gave slash grades, unlike Seb

Jack Andrew

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 32
  • Karma: +5/-1
I finally managed to get up Croissant Aręte at burbage north this morning for anyone that is interested. Spoke to Jon and added to UKC under new name croissant moon, added the slab too.

I would agree with the aręte being 6c, if it got a bit of traffic that’s be cool, might get rid of some of the scrittle!  Popped a vid on YouTube if anyones interested


Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
That looks genuinely pleasant!!

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2024
  • Karma: +84/-0
Sorry but I pulled off the top of the flake on Bump N Grind yesterday. It wasn't wet and I didn't notice any crack lines or weaknesses. It's about 3 inches by maybe an inch, the part that provided a lip on the flake. I left it directly underneath the block tucked in so it wouldn't get dislodged. I don't really know about repairing rock so I'm not sure how easily or even if it can be repaired.
Sorry Jon

Bonjoy

Online
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9969
  • Karma: +568/-10
No worries. Cheers for the heads up.

BAndy

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 99
  • Karma: +10/-0
A mate and I did Croissant Moon and Croissant Slab today. Nice problems. We each snapped a 'crucial' pebble when trying the slab, but did it afterwards with a different sequence. It may have been a slightly harder sequence but I don't think it changes the grade.

highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1295
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
I have repeated Croissant Moon (good name) and slab since the aforementioned pebble loss and can confirm no loss of quality or change in grade!


Footwork

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 634
  • Karma: +63/-0
  • Living With Wads
    • Living With Wads
I have repeated Croissant Moon (good name) and slab since the aforementioned pebble loss and can confirm no loss of quality or change in grade!



You sure you posted that vid in the right thread  ;)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13583
  • Karma: +692/-68
  • Whut
 :lol: merciless

highrepute

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1295
  • Karma: +109/-0
  • Blah
I have repeated Croissant Moon (good name) and slab since the aforementioned pebble loss and can confirm no loss of quality or change in grade!



You sure you posted that vid in the right thread  ;)

 :whistle:

Dolly

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2024
  • Karma: +84/-0
I did this on Friday as well (the problem I mean) It seemed to have more moves than in the videos but it is definitely quality. Nice one again Jon

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal