Just a post-trip update for anyone planning a trip. We visited the following areas:
Millennium Cave. Amazing place and the routes were all excellent. I'd definitely return for another visit here. A mix of some corroded bolts / some good new bolts. Felt a bit gripped lowering off on one route due to bad bolts. Shade in the cave most of the day.
Cala Luna. Really terrible bolts! I felt like I was soloing, lowering off was scary. Only climbed 2 routes and bailed from a third because of the bolting but also because we had to cut short and run away from a thunderstorm as we'd rented our own little boat. Lovely place, but I probably wouldn't return. It's more of a novelty crag for beach / climbing and the climbing isn't worth it due to the dangerous condition of the bolts. Renting a little powerboat for 120 euro - no powerboat licence required - allows for checking out the amazing cliffs and caves along the coastline from Cala Luna, there looked like some superb DWS potential.
Cala Fuili. The routes on the crags nearest the beach have been re-equipped with titanium glue-ins. Didn't venture further up the gully to the more inland crags.
Dorgali. Good easy-access crag for morning shade and its on the way back for an airport day. Bolts seemed fine on the routes we climbed. Good mix of 5s, 6s and 7s. I really liked this place even though it's not somewhere you'd travel for on its own.
Gorrupu Canyon. Didn't climb but just an amazing place for a visit and to gawp at Hotel Supramonte and the other routes. Watched a team on 'Cuore in Gola (7c+, 250m). Would be v.keen to return to try one of the big routes if anyone's keen! Walked in downhill (2hrs) and got the jeep out for 15 euro.
Read on Keith Sharples insta that Bidiriscottai has been re-equipped with titaniums. Looks like a great crag and I'd like to visit on a return trip.
Having knowledge of the previous bolt failures in Sardinia - and having first-hand experience of snapping three bolts with just body-weight while re-equipping on N.Wales Limestone - definitely had me feeling more gripped than I normally would while climbing 6s and low 7s. A case of ignorance being bliss. Cala Luna isn't worth visiting for the climbing imo, due to the condition of the bolts. Everywhere else we visited seemed either manageable - as in some bad bolts but mostly OK - or no problem. Millennium Cave is an incredible crag almost worth visiting by itself (perhaps needs a few more routes to be truly world class).
