I have flashed x-2 once, but it was a clear outlier. It suited my style perfectly and I suspect it was soft, time will tell as it gets more repeats.
Backflip SDSThe Charles Albert thing. I'm sorry but eating boiled-up ladybirds and sleeping in a cave does not a 9A make.Alphane (obvs)Either Soudain Seul or RotS.
Quote from: jwi on Today at 12:12:00 pmYou can also demonstrate that you have the required level by repeating a lot of problems at X-2 in short order. Like Nalle did after Burden, where he demonstrated his level by repeating many 8C in few attempts.Or Seb Bouin for 9c endurance routes. We can believe he has the level because 9b endurance routes are clearly piss.Most who've done correctly graded 7C can do an occasional 7B flash, and they do most that suit them in a few tries. At least that is my experience. Same for 8A and 7AI think this is far, far too formulaic and only holds if the hypothetical climbers professed 'max' is in fact nowhere near their max. Maybe a British climber thing where we have so little rock that sieging stuff becomes the norm.
You can also demonstrate that you have the required level by repeating a lot of problems at X-2 in short order. Like Nalle did after Burden, where he demonstrated his level by repeating many 8C in few attempts.Or Seb Bouin for 9c endurance routes. We can believe he has the level because 9b endurance routes are clearly piss.Most who've done correctly graded 7C can do an occasional 7B flash, and they do most that suit them in a few tries. At least that is my experience. Same for 8A and 7A
Quote from: sdm on Today at 12:55:02 pmI have flashed x-2 once, but it was a clear outlier. It suited my style perfectly and I suspect it was soft, time will tell as it gets more repeats. Couldn't you say something similar about your hardest problems though? If you are anything like me, I've done a couple of things at x but there's plenty of x out there which don't suit me for whatever reason and might as well be x+2 in terms of how feasible they actually seem to me.
You can tell that it is absolutely not the standard to be able to climb 9A and flash 8C because nobody has done it, and most haven't flashed 8B+It doesn't really matter whether one thinks they should be able to; they haven't
Your suspicion is that because the climbers performances don't match up to a requirement you have personally created that the grade bands are too narrow? That seems backwards to me.
Quote from: Wellsy on Today at 04:00:37 pmYour suspicion is that because the climbers performances don't match up to a requirement you have personally created that the grade bands are too narrow? That seems backwards to me.I can't remember where it came from, but there's a similar x/x-2 rule of thumb for sport that's been floating around for quite a long time, so I suspect jwi is just applying the same idea to bouldering.