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Bosiwad (Read 181905 times)

YorkshireTea

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#500 Re: Bosiwad
March 30, 2024, 09:48:29 pm
Is it just me or could it go from a much lower start?

does anyone know if anyone got round to climbing the original version of the sitter yet? Supposedly adds 8A+ into Sleepwalker, whereas Return adds 8B.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtoE2SNlv4r/

Bosi should have had a bash after ROTSW, could have been a quick 8C+/9A FA.

There's a rumour dark horse Griff Whiteside did this before DWoods did ROTSW but not sure how true it is. Happened to speak to someone who knows him and he wasn't sure, sounds like pulling teeth to get him to admit what he's climbed even as a mate

Wood FT

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#501 Re: Bosiwad
March 31, 2024, 12:46:47 pm
Nice, we've all heard that story before. Did you flash the zone? "I can't say". Did you ground up Careless Torque? "I couldn't possibly comment"

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#502 Re: Bosiwad
March 31, 2024, 04:18:18 pm
If asked I could neither confirm nor deny that I onsight solo'd Hubble

ferret

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#503 Re: Bosiwad
March 31, 2024, 04:30:08 pm
Nice, we've all heard that story before. Did you flash the zone? "I can't say". Did you ground up Careless Torque? "I couldn't possibly comment"

Given that Whiteside published video of loads of his significant ascents I would see no reason to doubt any claim he actually made

SA Chris

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#504 Re: Bosiwad
March 31, 2024, 11:47:46 pm
The Killers also wrote a song about him. Poss misheard.

edshakey

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#505 Re: Bosiwad
April 28, 2024, 11:04:48 pm
Noticed Dave Mc did his long term project at 8B+ [Bultitude], and followed the trend of not telling anyone for a month. Will Bosi repeated in in a day a few weeks back and held off with that news until Dave released his. I had thought this would be harder as its taken him a long time.

Footage of Will's ascent around 12:28 in this video


remus

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#506 Re: Bosiwad
September 22, 2024, 10:25:14 am
Big day in Portugal recently:

8A/+ flash
8A basically flash, but shares an easy start move with the above
8A+ flash
8B FA
8B+ low start FA
8A FA
8A+ low start FA
8A FA

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/praia_do_cavalo-26411/

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#507 Re: Bosiwad
September 22, 2024, 10:53:00 am
Good steady mileage session  :thumbsup:

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#508 Re: Bosiwad
September 22, 2024, 01:09:23 pm

Always vaguely interested about how well the gradation of the grading scale holds up in the higher grades, like is an 8A for a 9A climber like a 7A for an 8A climber? If feel like it should be but not sure if it carries through

jwi

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#509 Re: Bosiwad
September 22, 2024, 01:43:34 pm

Always vaguely interested about how well the gradation of the grading scale holds up in the higher grades, like is an 8A for a 9A climber like a 7A for an 8A climber? If feel like it should be but not sure if it carries through

In the Provencal school of thought, that is a defining features of the French grading system. The grades should have a transitive property, so that someone who onsights grade X should be able to Redpoint X+3 and do three X-2 in a day etc, whatever the value of X.

For sport climbing, data supports this, except in the highest grades where there might be systematic overgrading, see fig 6-9 here https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31697.msg653903.html#msg653903

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#510 Re: Bosiwad
September 22, 2024, 02:04:12 pm
I just looked at my data-base scraped from eight a in 2017, and there are much fewer bouldering ascents than sport climbing. The data weakly support the idea that Bouldering grades also have this transitive property.



More data needed, alas.

Someone with a free afternoon that could scrape ukclimbing, 8a and thecrag, etc, and send me the resulting db?

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#511 Re: Bosiwad
October 12, 2024, 03:28:56 pm


Spots of Time repeat looking somewhat inevitable.

Wellsy

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#512 Re: Bosiwad
October 12, 2024, 04:34:11 pm
He cannot be stopped or denied

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#513 Re: Bosiwad
October 12, 2024, 06:21:59 pm


Spots of Time repeat looking somewhat inevitable.

Think inevitable might not mean quickly though. He did moves on BOD much easier but took some time to link. It looks hard.

Kingy

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#514 Re: Bosiwad
October 12, 2024, 06:40:28 pm
Looking good.  :weakbench: Interesting that he seems to have got it down to 4 moves, if it goes that way

36chambers

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#515 Re: Bosiwad
October 12, 2024, 08:34:11 pm
He cannot be stopped or denied

Agreed.

According to a quick google, Alphane took bossman Bosi 10 sessions, ROTSW took 12, and Burden took 14 (+10 on the replica).

With that being said, it looks like 9A can simply be defined as "any climb that can withstand Bosi for 10 sessions", so Spots just needs to hold on for another 5...

Dig deep Spots, you can do this! :strongbench:

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#516 Re: Bosiwad
October 13, 2024, 09:27:03 am
That was great.

Also love that he has an unstitched arse pocket flapping about in the wind, he's still one of us.

Fiend

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#517 Re: Bosiwad
October 13, 2024, 01:11:40 pm
The unstitched arse pocket and the giddy excitement at the low-flying planes make the video  ;D

Will Hunt

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#518 Re: Bosiwad
October 13, 2024, 10:36:31 pm
Aidan Roberts stepped down from the barque and into the New World. After 8 weeks aboard he was unsteady; it took a moment to find his land legs, not helped by the jostle of other passengers who were now busy unloading their scant possessions and packing them onto the wagon trains that would take them west.

Since the return of Capt Varian's voyage, which brought sketches of boulder fields stretching for miles across the frontier, thousands of Europeans had packed up their lives and started the perilous journey to America. Many fewer ever finished the journey, falling victim to shipwreck, the privations of the continental crossing, or the fiercely territorial tribe of natives known as the Mellow.

Now Aidan had joined them. Fresh from his Lakeland success he was here to carve out his legacy, but something was not right. Representatives from the Patagonia Trading Company should have been there on the quay to meet him and show him to a sumptuous hotel where he could rest before the next stage of his journey, to be undertaken in the relative comfort of a stagecoach. As the common folk drifted away, Aidan was left with no choice but to search for his own lodgings, to be paid for with what little remained of his funds from the crossing.

Aidan was furious. Hours of searching later and the only accommodation he could find was a lousy room at the top of a knocking shop. Everywhere else was full of new arrivals or unaffordable with his meagre funds. Still, the food wasn't bad; a waif of a girl wearing a filthy shift had brought him a steaming tofu poke bowl that she assured him was brimming with plant protein. Aidan looked the girl over. She was somehow familiar and was, most strikingly, completely bald. Moreover, he noticed as she handed him the bowl that her fingers were immensely strong. The realisation hit him: Gaskins. He'd been through this port some years ago. Aidan pushed the thought away and asked her, "what news of England?"
"Well, sir, I don't know, I only knows what I hear from the sailors at the harbour."
"And what do you hear?"
"A fast clipper docked from Whitehaven yesterday, sir. They say that Bosi has done Spots of Time. He said it was piss, sir".

Now things made sense. Patagonia's no-show was no mishap. He'd been dropped, and now he was stranded on the shores of America with no means, no transportation, and no 9A FA to his name. In his despair he thought back to Wordsworth: "Nature never did betray the heart that loved her". Had he not loved that boulder, and yet had he not been betrayed? He slept fitfully that night, unable to think what to do next.

It came to him at dawn. More Wordsworth. "Wisdom is oftentimes nearer when we stoop than when we soar" and "To begin, begin."
Here he was: young, gifted, and with a world-beating prowess in high-angled crimping. He swung his bundle onto his back and walked down to the wharf. There were the wagon trains and, after a short negotiation, he climbed aboard. They trundled out late that afternoon. Aidan did not look back; his past lay behind him, his future, his destiny, to the west, into the setting sun.

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#519 Re: Bosiwad
October 13, 2024, 10:47:26 pm
 :bow:

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#520 Re: Bosiwad
October 14, 2024, 04:39:49 pm


According to a quick google, Alphane took bossman Bosi 10 sessions, ROTSW took 12, and Burden took 14 (+10 on the replica).

With that being said, it looks like 9A can simply be defined as "any climb that can withstand Bosi for 10 sessions", so Spots just needs to hold on for another 5...

Dig deep Spots, you can do this! :strongbench:

Todays insta is suggesting 8c+ based on his efforts. 3 good links.  Bosi is looking very good for the send.

Burden seems next level in comparison to the others in terms of effort, preparation. to get the job done.

remus

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#521 Re: Bosiwad
October 14, 2024, 04:48:47 pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/DBHA3C0NVvW/

Dropping the last hard move!

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#522 Re: Bosiwad
October 14, 2024, 04:49:04 pm

Burden seems next level in comparison to the others in terms of effort, preparation. to get the job done.

After watching Will’s working session on Spots and from what Aidan has said about Burden, the main difference seems to be you can have a several hour session on spots and not finish with 8 split tips! I think this can’t be discounted in terms of how ‘easy’ a boulder is to get done.

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#523 Re: Bosiwad
October 15, 2024, 04:38:44 pm
One thing that impresses me about Bosiwad is his ability to laugh & not kick his chalk bag across the hill after falling off.

Good lad.

jwi

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#524 Re: Bosiwad
October 16, 2024, 12:40:48 pm
We're not trying to estimate how hard something is based only on number of sessions are we? Because that's daft

 

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