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Bosiwad (Read 190449 times)

36chambers

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#50 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 03:33:12 pm
6 8Cs... bloody hell!

Assuming these aren't just 6 variations of the same climb, then that is very impressive.

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#51 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 05:23:28 pm
So apart from a frankly ridiculous ticklist, what else did he benefit from leaving team GB?

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#52 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 05:31:59 pm
For anyone unable to see the insta post:
Quote
  Ticklist for my time in Brno ✅
.
Kostej Nesmrtelný 9a
Perla Východu 9a
.
Drift 8C
Pata Ledovce 8C
Bulbasaur 8C FA
Ghost Rider 8C
Tekuté Štěstí 8C
Iceberg 8C
Charizard 8B+ Flash
Sila je Kouzlo 8B+
Svini Mor 8B Flash
Leda Kost 8B
H1N1 8B
Kouzelný sauce 8B
Patička Ledovce 8A+
Fénixovy Slzy 8A+ Flash
The Swirl King Sit 8A+ FA Flash
Blatant 8A+
Kapka z poháru nesmrtelnosti 8A+ 1st go
Švédský závodník Hotofson Sit 8A
Smrad Dálek Sit 8A
2nd place Czech climbing cup

Any idea what 1st go means as opposed to flash? Does it share moves with others that he climbed maybe?

JamieG

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#53 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 05:54:03 pm
For anyone unable to see the insta post:
Quote
  Ticklist for my time in Brno ✅
.
Kostej Nesmrtelný 9a
Perla Východu 9a
.
Drift 8C
Pata Ledovce 8C
Bulbasaur 8C FA
Ghost Rider 8C
Tekuté Štěstí 8C
Iceberg 8C
Charizard 8B+ Flash
Sila je Kouzlo 8B+
Svini Mor 8B Flash
Leda Kost 8B
H1N1 8B
Kouzelný sauce 8B
Patička Ledovce 8A+
Fénixovy Slzy 8A+ Flash
The Swirl King Sit 8A+ FA Flash
Blatant 8A+
Kapka z poháru nesmrtelnosti 8A+ 1st go
Švédský závodník Hotofson Sit 8A
Smrad Dálek Sit 8A
2nd place Czech climbing cup

Any idea what 1st go means as opposed to flash? Does it share moves with others that he climbed maybe?

Absolutely unreal. He says in a comment it shares the start hold with another problem so he doesn’t consider it a flash. That’s very strict in my book. But I guess it is a clear line in sand. Any shared moves/holds = no flash.

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#54 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 06:07:50 pm
For anyone unable to see the insta post:
Quote
  Ticklist for my time in Brno ✅
.
Kostej Nesmrtelný 9a
Perla Východu 9a
.
Drift 8C
Pata Ledovce 8C
Bulbasaur 8C FA
Ghost Rider 8C
Tekuté Štěstí 8C
Iceberg 8C
Charizard 8B+ Flash
Sila je Kouzlo 8B+
Svini Mor 8B Flash
Leda Kost 8B
H1N1 8B
Kouzelný sauce 8B
Patička Ledovce 8A+
Fénixovy Slzy 8A+ Flash
The Swirl King Sit 8A+ FA Flash
Blatant 8A+
Kapka z poháru nesmrtelnosti 8A+ 1st go
Švédský závodník Hotofson Sit 8A
Smrad Dálek Sit 8A
2nd place Czech climbing cup

Any idea what 1st go means as opposed to flash? Does it share moves with others that he climbed maybe?

Absolutely unreal. He says in a comment it shares the start hold with another problem so he doesn’t consider it a flash. That’s very strict in my book. But I guess it is a clear line in sand. Any shared moves/holds = no flash.

High standards indeed!

edshakey

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#55 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 06:10:21 pm
Wow, even more impressive then! Very high standards, it would've been easy to just call it a flash. Great trip  :bow:

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#56 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 07:57:05 pm
I can't believe anyone would consider shared holds to mean anything else

edit: actually, who am I kidding, I can definitely believe that

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#57 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 08:11:05 pm
I can't believe anyone would consider shared holds to mean anything else

edit: actually, who am I kidding, I can definitely believe that

If it's literally just the start hold that is shared then you're not really practising the moves on one problem by trying the other. I'd probably take the flash on both, what with my loose morals.

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#58 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 08:30:14 pm
I can't believe anyone would consider shared holds to mean anything else

edit: actually, who am I kidding, I can definitely believe that
+1, even if I just pulled my ass of the floor and then dropped off I'd have blow the flash on anything sharing holds imo

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#59 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 08:35:03 pm
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out... 

36chambers

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#60 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 08:44:33 pm
I can't believe anyone would consider shared holds to mean anything else

edit: actually, who am I kidding, I can definitely believe that

If it's literally just the start hold that is shared then you're not really practising the moves on one problem by trying the other. I'd probably take the flash on both, what with my loose morals.

That how it begins, next you'll be crouching a sit start, off 4 pads, 3 moves in, 2 meters to the right of the actually climb, dabbing your way to finish with a one hand "match" drop off, on a recently excavated jug, below the top out, and claiming your first 7A.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2022, 08:50:24 pm by 36chambers »

yetix

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#61 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 09:08:58 pm
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...
No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!

remus

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#62 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 09:24:47 pm
That how it begins, next you'll be crouching a sit start, off 4 pads, 3 moves in, 2 meters to the right of the actually climb, dabbing your way to finish with a one hand "match" drop off, on a recently excavated jug, below the top out, and claiming your first 7A.

Shit, thought I'd taken that video down :lol:

On reflection I think everyone's probably right. Easier to avoid the ambiguity and just say you can't flash two problems if one of them shares holds with another.

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#63 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 09:49:08 pm
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...
No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!

Surely it's the moves that are important; the moves of the two problems are totally different right from pulling on, so there's no way in my mind that doing one would invalidate the flash on the other. Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.

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#64 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 09:59:55 pm
Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.

Not quite. Pulling onto a start hold and taking both feet off the floor, then stepping off again, would invalidate a flash n’est-ce pas?

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#65 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 10:09:01 pm
So based on this principle, you can discount a very large proportion of flashed problems on the Moonboards.
 :worms:

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#66 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 10:43:04 pm
An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...
No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!

Surely it's the moves that are important; the moves of the two problems are totally different right from pulling on, so there's no way in my mind that doing one would invalidate the flash on the other. Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.

Soon you'll be saying that taking a hold with your left hand on one problem means you can use it with your right hand to flash an adjacent problem. Then before you know it, you'll be crouching a sit start, off 4 pads, 3 moves in, 2 meters to the right ... and claiming your first 7A.

But more seriously, consider a problem where the start holds, and feet, are terrible and they require a good bit of effort to hold and move from, having held and cranked off those holds previously for one problem would be a huge advantage mentally, and physically, when "flashing" another problem.

Also what actually counts as a move? If you have to do a few foot moves to place a cruxy high heel before you even move your hands, can you do that on both problems as long as you go in a different direction to different holds afterwards?

"Any grey area in climbing will always get abused" (36chambers' Law), so why not make the definition as clean cut as possible?




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#67 Re: Bosiwad
April 25, 2022, 11:05:08 pm
Is it still a flash if you tape a book to your leg, then use the same book on a different problem?

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#68 Re: Bosiwad
April 26, 2022, 10:26:27 am
If they share the same start, you need to use a different book for each problem. I recommend carrying the Harry Potter series around, as they get thicker as the series progresses, should cover the full range.

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#69 Re: Bosiwad
April 26, 2022, 04:59:37 pm
Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.

Not quite. Pulling onto a start hold and taking both feet off the floor, then stepping off again, would invalidate a flash n’est-ce pas?

An equivalent scenario might be in the Cave where you had already done RA. Could you still flash Cave Life? (the starting holds being the same) The jury's out...
No. Make your choice on the flash go ofc!

Surely it's the moves that are important; the moves of the two problems are totally different right from pulling on, so there's no way in my mind that doing one would invalidate the flash on the other. Logically you're implying that even touching the start hold without pulling on would invalidate the flash; it's the same thing.

Soon you'll be saying that taking a hold with your left hand on one problem means you can use it with your right hand to flash an adjacent problem. Then before you know it, you'll be crouching a sit start, off 4 pads, 3 moves in, 2 meters to the right ... and claiming your first 7A.

But more seriously, consider a problem where the start holds, and feet, are terrible and they require a good bit of effort to hold and move from, having held and cranked off those holds previously for one problem would be a huge advantage mentally, and physically, when "flashing" another problem.

Also what actually counts as a move? If you have to do a few foot moves to place a cruxy high heel before you even move your hands, can you do that on both problems as long as you go in a different direction to different holds afterwards?

"Any grey area in climbing will always get abused" (36chambers' Law), so why not make the definition as clean cut as possible?





All very good, reasonable points I'm sure but I'd still be having it and I don't mind who knows it!

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#70 Re: Bosiwad
April 27, 2022, 12:43:18 am
Poor old Bosi, finally gets his own thread and what's in it? 2 pages about the aesthetics of bouldering and what constitutes a flash lmao.

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#71 Re: Bosiwad
April 27, 2022, 08:29:16 am
Poor old Bosi, finally gets his own thread and what's in it? 2 pages about the aesthetics of bouldering and what constitutes a flash lmao.

Welcome to UKB  ;D

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#72 Re: Bosiwad
April 27, 2022, 08:53:56 am
If they share the same start, you need to use a different book for each problem. I recommend carrying the Harry Potter series around, as they get thicker as the series progresses, should cover the full range.

Reminded me of the Ondra film called the “wizards apprentice” ten years ago. Bosi is a deserving heir for that epithet.

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#73 Re: Bosiwad
April 27, 2022, 12:50:48 pm
Fuck this - there’s only one Jerry!

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#74 Re: Bosiwad
April 27, 2022, 08:32:28 pm
Poor old Bosi, finally gets his own thread and what's in it? 2 pages about the aesthetics of bouldering and what constitutes a flash lmao.

Ha. That is funny actually.
This Bosi Czech ticklist is utterly ridiculous though. I can't fathom. Dave Graham has just had arguably his best season ever over in Swizzle and the list doesn't compare..

 

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