[JamieG]

Wine Gums FTW. Perfect size, texture and sweetness to be consumed by the handful on the move.

I now have visions of you climbing one handed, stuffing wine gums in your mouth on every move. 

[SA Chris]

Usually have a pocket full on winter routes and skiing / touring sometimes not far off! TBF I have them more for running and cycling events.

[crimpinainteasy]

I found it highly entertaining that Bosi's 9A project trip diet is steak, sweet potato wedges and chocolate biscuits. Can we get Dave Mac to live on that for a month?

I don't think steak and sweet potato wedges is unhealthy unless it's all you eat. I'd also wager he's way more strict with his diet during a training cycle Vs on a trip.

[scragrock]

No mention of the recent Inverness trip? 

[yetix]

Looks like bosi cleaned up at biblins, curious as to how he though the rh start compared to what he did.

[Fiend]

No mention of the recent Inverness trip? 

No 9As no news.

[SA Chris]

UKB relies on on the ground reporters....

[scragrock]

UKB relies on on the ground reporters....

Like Peter O'Hanraha-hanrahan?

[SA Chris]

Not sure his fluent German is any use in Inverness. "He said he doesn't like the grade but he'll go along with it"

[scragrock]

Not sure his fluent German is any use in Inverness. "He said he doesn't like the grade but he'll go along with it"

Ha ha, i appreciate the Brass Eye call back

For those who care, I believe Will and chums teamed up with Rhys and his brother Rubes for another look round Rooftown, will smashed Pete's wee project on the Wibble bloc which i can testify to being ridiculously hard, sending Neg Prog low and repeating Zero. They also hit Brin for a go at Big Chief {which Will thought was stiff for the grade at 8b!} and he flashed Kaiser{Stu's hard right-hand line on the Sussurus Bloc} which is very impressive with the current conditions.
Nice to see some of the harder lines in the Strath getting some much needed attention.

[steveri]

The history books will have to be rewritten.
https://youtu.be/1Pr8xnNi7OM?t=24

[James Malloch]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2NWk_1xRHw/

First session on Return of the sleepwalker, 8C+.

All moves done and one move off doing overlapping halves. What a beast!

[robertostallioni]

Sounded to me like he'd only tried the stand?

[James Malloch]

Sounded to me like he'd only tried the stand?

Oh yes, you’re right. ROTS is the sit, right?

[remus]

Good to see him absolutely rinsing the top. Looks like he's making faster progress than on Terranova...

Yet more speculation: I wonder whether the sloper/slot has gotten better over time? Seems like there's a lot of people sessioning it so I imagine it gets a lot of brushing, and it wouldn't take much to turn a shitty thin slot in to something a lot better.

[Duncan campbell]

How long before someone gets a rotating mechanical brush on it?? Gotta save those elbows eh 

[remus]

Sounds like he dropped the last move on sleepwalker (bumping to the jug) today, only 2 sessions in.

Ed: he actually dropped it a little earlier, with Rh in the slot and lh matching in to the sloper.

[yetix]

He has 2 months there too, sounds promising for the low!

[yetix]

Good to see him absolutely rinsing the top. Looks like he's making faster progress than on Terranova...

Yet more speculation: I wonder whether the sloper/slot has gotten better over time? Seems like there's a lot of people sessioning it so I imagine it gets a lot of brushing, and it wouldn't take much to turn a shitty thin slot in to something a lot better.

Carlo Traversi on the recent test piece podcast has said he thinks the slot has improved between trying it and says he thinks the brushing is the reason. Is at 1h30ish for those who are interested.

I was saying offline to Liam that Nalle barely gets 3f in and it looked like bosi was able to bump 4 in pretty comfortably, but I wondered if Nalle just had uber fat fingers.

[User deactivated.]

Webb seems to get into the slot ok towards the end of this. Perhaps it's more of a height thing? It's also pretty funny how much Bosi looks like he's barely trying on his attempt compared to this (day 2 vs day 11). Next level. 

[yetix]

Can't tell if Jimmy has 3 or 4 in the slot tho....

Nalle has 3 which I guess is either finger size or the slot getting bigger over the years?

https://youtu.be/iPZ1w7tjo_M?si=qQ3SdUd1nYtgZ--k

Who knows though.

Either way bosi is making it look casual!

What do you mean by the height thing part? I thought the topic was the hold improving?

[User deactivated.]

I was thinking if Nalle shorter than the others he might not be able to get over the hold enough to get into the back of it, but after scanning that vid I realise his beta is totally different. Still, it seems he's going left hand into the best bit instead of right hand, so maybe it just doesn't fit as well that way? If Webb got into it ok on the FA and so have other early repeaters (there's loads of close up footage of Woods on ROTS) then it can't have changed that much if at all?

[User deactivated.]

I was just saying to someone today that it was inevitable he'd do it next session...

Classic downgrade too. The yanks will be fuming.

 

[Teaboy]

I can’t imagine they’ll give much of a shit.

[yetix]

Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...