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Bosiwad (Read 75812 times)

remus

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#300 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 10:17:28 am
Session 3 now streaming, with appearance from Toru

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#301 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 10:51:01 am
Session 3 now streaming, with appearance from Toru
He's looking pretty strong!

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#302 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 11:28:59 am
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success. I don't think he's linked from the ground through the footwalk into the next move yet?

Shame about the shoes. Heel beta looks much easier.

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#303 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 11:37:47 am
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.
I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?

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#304 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 11:45:51 am
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.
I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?

Perhaps a bit grand of me to say "the only thing". He commented earlier that when fresh he can link the top 50% of the time.

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#305 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 12:18:55 pm
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.
I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?

Perhaps a bit grand of me to say "the only thing". He commented earlier that when fresh he can link the top 50% of the time.

He did what must essentially be the stand, pulling on from after the 2nd hand move and the foot walk, first pull on of the video (don't know if he'd pulled on before that) and whilst still wearing his down jacket, so yeah not far off at all.

And through the first move and foot walk a bunch of times. Would not surprise if he just did it next session.

So cool to see it all unfolding in real time.

Interesting that he seems to have sacked off the heel beta other than  a cursory go at the end. I thought he'd have given it a go when fresh at the start of the session to get a better understanding of whether it actually works or not.

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#306 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 12:20:03 pm
He said that's because his shoe has broken to much in the video?

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#307 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 12:40:55 pm
Ah okay, I didn't have the audio on.

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#308 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 12:49:32 pm
He did what must essentially be the stand, pulling on from after the 2nd hand move and the foot walk, first pull on of the video
Good spot, I must have skipped through that bit

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#309 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 12:50:00 pm
If only I'd known about oatcakes and water 30 years ago ...

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#310 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 12:50:30 pm
If only I'd known about oatcakes and water 30 years ago ...

And Parmesan

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#311 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 12:52:52 pm
Itís fair to say that if I was Mr. Adidas I would be couriering a fresh pair of shoes up to Finland post haste. If only to stop any potential Ďfound some new heel beta, but a shitty shoe stopped playí bad press.

Obviously that depends on both Mr. Adidas having any awareness of what is going on in the climbing section of the empire, and Mr Bosiís shoes being a standard off the shelf pair.

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#312 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 01:19:38 pm
And through the first move and foot walk a bunch of times.

Cool. Missed that, but I only caught bits of the stream. That's a good indicator, surely.

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#313 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 01:34:57 pm
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.
I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?

Perhaps a bit grand of me to say "the only thing". He commented earlier that when fresh he can link the top 50% of the time.

He did what must essentially be the stand, pulling on from after the 2nd hand move and the foot walk, first pull on of the video (don't know if he'd pulled on before that) and whilst still wearing his down jacket, so yeah not far off at all.

And through the first move and foot walk a bunch of times. Would not surprise if he just did it next session.

From my armchair it looks like there's a big difference in what happens next between doing the footwalk and doing the footwalk perfectly. When he's pulling on from stand he can place the foot perfectly. He hasn't done the footwalk well enough from the floor yet to open up the top. If he's worried about skin I wonder whether he can figure out how to finesse the foot moves before going from the floor.

He does look very very close though, and this is just speculation from a punter armchair.

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#314 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 02:14:53 pm
I am loving watching the process in these videos and getting to know the characters. Those of you listening without sound are missing out.... Nalle will now in my head always be The Gruffalo !

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#315 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 07:09:32 pm
He said that's because his shoe has broken to much in the video?

Does this mean he went on holiday with only one pair of shoes?!

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#316 Re: Bosiwad
March 20, 2023, 10:50:02 pm
Wasnít sure where to put this but thought it was topical for this thread given Iím sure WB says on one of these livestreams that Terranova is one of the hardest things heís tried.

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#317 Re: Bosiwad
March 21, 2023, 06:29:19 am
Seems like doing the footwalk well enough to do the next hand move is now the only thing in the way of success.
I just fastforwarded the whole thing with no audio, but didn't he fall off the moves after that in isolation at the end of the vid?

Perhaps a bit grand of me to say "the only thing". He commented earlier that when fresh he can link the top 50% of the time.

He did what must essentially be the stand, pulling on from after the 2nd hand move and the foot walk, first pull on of the video (don't know if he'd pulled on before that) and whilst still wearing his down jacket, so yeah not far off at all.

And through the first move and foot walk a bunch of times. Would not surprise if he just did it next session.

From my armchair it looks like there's a big difference in what happens next between doing the footwalk and doing the footwalk perfectly. When he's pulling on from stand he can place the foot perfectly. He hasn't done the footwalk well enough from the floor yet to open up the top. If he's worried about skin I wonder whether he can figure out how to finesse the foot moves before going from the floor.

He does look very very close though, and this is just speculation from a punter armchair.

Yes looks that way. I don't think he's done the 2nd move on the link yet, either foot slipping off on the footwalk or not quite maintaining tension going for the 2nd hand move.

I am loving watching the process in these videos and getting to know the characters. Those of you listening without sound are missing out.... Nalle will now in my head always be The Gruffalo !

It's flipping great isn't it. Will watch with sound later hopefully!

Very short sessions so far. Something like 45 mins, 2hrs and 1hr so far. Is that the nature of a fairly short problem, as opposed to a longer problem with more but easier moves to work?

Wasnít sure where to put this but thought it was topical for this thread given Iím sure WB says on one of these livestreams that Terranova is one of the hardest things heís tried.

Spotted that too. I don't know her name but judging from various videos she's very strong indeed!

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#318 Re: Bosiwad
March 21, 2023, 07:00:30 am

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#319 Re: Bosiwad
March 21, 2023, 10:09:58 am


Very short sessions so far. Something like 45 mins, 2hrs and 1hr so far. Is that the nature of a fairly short problem, as opposed to a longer problem with more but easier moves to work?


I might be wrong but i thought he mentioned something about the sun coming around on the first livestream that he did?

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#320 Re: Bosiwad
March 21, 2023, 10:51:06 am
What a time to be alive.

Watching live in 4k from the comfort of home as a wad sessions the world's hardest boulder.

It's a far cry from a paragraph in a magazine that someone climbed route X last month, maybe with a grainy black and white photo of the crag from a distance, if you were lucky.

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#321 Re: Bosiwad
March 21, 2023, 02:11:41 pm
Here is Will on Jam Crack. I recommend skipping the first 20 minutes or so

http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast

Listened to this earlier. Brilliant. First 20 mins right up there with the best Jam Crack intro rambles and a great interview.

One particular point of interest was Bosi confirming definitively that he's retired from comps, and that the main driver of that was team bureaucracy. I think it was discussed on here a while ago, but that seems both incredible and really quite sad that one of the best climbers in the UK has been driven out of competing in that way.

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#322 Re: Bosiwad
March 21, 2023, 04:36:07 pm
Here is Will on Jam Crack. I recommend skipping the first 20 minutes or so

http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast

Listened to this earlier. Brilliant. First 20 mins right up there with the best Jam Crack intro rambles and a great interview.

One particular point of interest was Bosi confirming definitively that he's retired from comps, and that the main driver of that was team bureaucracy. I think it was discussed on here a while ago, but that seems both incredible and really quite sad that one of the best climbers in the UK has been driven out of competing in that way.

Agreed, it seems a real failure of the system. Though in Will's case it sounds like there were other (secondary) reasons for it not being a good fit.

Ultimately comps loss is our gain! (I do like comps but am much more interested in hard stuff being done outside).

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#323 Re: Bosiwad
March 27, 2023, 10:25:57 pm
Anyone know how Will's getting on with BoD? Is he still out there?

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#324 Re: Bosiwad
March 27, 2023, 10:48:41 pm
He's extended his trip to try and let some skin regrow. Doing some links of the top bit taped up. Played more with the heel beta and can't decide which is easier.

 

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