I'm constantly filled with existential dread when drawing the line between rock and the ground on new stuff.
Quote from: Danny on April 19, 2022, 06:57:16 pmI'm constantly filled with existential dread when drawing the line between rock and the ground on new stuff.Same here on some established stuff. Where does the "plinth" begin and end!?! My main issue is that as I'm tall, I am always second guessing which holds would be within reach for the nominal average climber. Many a time I have got home after a session of frustration, watched a youtube video, and found that my failure was due to trying to do a sit start using smears for hands!
Is it cheating to throw for the first hand move with the momentum gained from lifting your bum off the ground, or must one always lift up, pause to kill the momentum, and then make the first hand move?
Here's a possible example: No idea how the FA did it. Cool looking problems.
Enough pads for them to sit comfortably, or just enough so they can reach the holds
Quote from: GazM on April 20, 2022, 10:14:01 amHere's a possible example: No idea how the FA did it. Cool looking problems.Oh wow, so many issues! The arse thrusting cheaty start off a folded (and propped up?) pad, the dab. Incredible. How does he sleep at night?
For a subtle but similar issue see the sit start to Eat It at Fair Head. Stand is 7A. Sit is 2 moves into it, of which the first is the crux. Hardest 7B+ I've ever tried, with a pull on then go approach. I think generating momentum from a bum rocket isn't cricket. However, pulling on and going cleanly, in one motion, is deffo easier than pausing. Is this cricket? Not clear to me.
Hardest 7B+ I've ever tried, with a pull on then go approach. I think generating momentum from a bum rocket isn't cricket. However, pulling on and going cleanly, in one motion, is deffo easier than pausing. Is this cricket? Not clear to me.
I would say enough to pads sit comfortably however that feels for someone. Enough pads to reach the holds could be an absolute max span for a midget and a comfortable sit start for a lankster.
Quote from: SA Chris on April 20, 2022, 10:05:37 amEnough pads for them to sit comfortably, or just enough so they can reach the holds I would say enough to pads sit comfortably however that feels for someone. Enough pads to reach the holds could be an absolute max span for a midget and a comfortable sit start for a lankster.