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Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022 (Read 2569 times)

Duma

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Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 17, 2022, 08:42:42 pm
Since the rest of the club is likely out enjoying the long weekend, I'll kick us off...

M - dad duty.
T - dad duty. Took daughter to UCR but no climbing for me. She had a sleepover at a mates, so had semi organised an eve session at the remnant to get back on Empire. Turned out would be dropping her off too late to make it worth it, and weather ended up looking very dodgy anyway so had to cancel. Eve Redpoint, routes:
Doubles warm up: 6b6b, 6c+6c+, 7a+7a.
Then a couple of trickier things second go: 7b(fail on last move), 7b, 7b+(fail at third bolt misreading the sequence, then went straight to top), 7b+.
Then 7a by skin of my teeth as "warm down". Good session, and cheered me up from my sulk about not getting out.
W - nipped to TCA am but was called to pick up daughter after half an hour, then dad duty. 2 x 1:30 plank.
T - dad duty. Daughter out with a mate at lunch so tried again at TCA, decent session this time. Blacks (6C-7B) upstairs, first session on these, 5 flashes, 3 second go, 2 with some work, 2 failed at the last move. Few failures on sideways dynos on the comp wall too.
F - 12 hr shift.
S - 12 hr shift.
S - 12 hr shift. 2 x 1:30 plank

71.5 kg

Pissed off my window on Tuesday got slammed shut, followed by a working through the great weather over the bank holiday weekend. Looks like next week will be a write off for getting out too, with school hols and work.

Aussiegav

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#1 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 17, 2022, 09:29:39 pm
Thanks Duma,
The challenges of juggling climbing & parenting. I know the frustration all too well.

Knee club update. Better week.
Awaiting a date to meet the surgeon.

Monday -
Rest day

Tuesday
Went to Awesome Walls after work.
Managed to climb at a higher level and some steeper routes with the occasional discomfort in the back of the knee.
Did the following routes;
5a, 5b, 5b, 5c+, 5a+, 6a+, 5b, 6a, 5c+.

Wednesday - Rest day


Thursday - rest day.


Friday

Thought I’d up the intensity to see how the knee would feel.
Went to the School and do some bouldering on the 40degree boards.

Boulder Session on the 2019 Moonboard. 4mins rest between problems. 3 attempts max

✓ Swan Dong. 6a+. Flash
✓ Simple V3. 6a+. Flash
✓ Oppvarming 1. 6a+. Flash
✓ Atomic M1lf. 6a+. Flash
✓ Travel size Mayo. 6a+. Flash
✓ E Teacher I believe 6b. No way that’s 6b. 2nd go.
◦ Tiritas 6b. Good but hard. Gave two goes.
✓ Bohfa Deez. 6a+ flash but sloppy.
✓ Soliloquy. 6a+.  Flash
◦ Coldplay. 3 tries.
✓ Where is the Hat. 6a+. Came off last move. On flash try. Tired. I decided to have 1 more go after taking off my shoes and stopping the session. This resulted in having around 10min rest. Did it on this 2nd go.

Nice way to finish the session.

Really pleased with the session and how the knee felt and went

Saturday -
Conditioning – 2min rests between reps

Australian pull ups on Rings feet on bench
2 sets of 8 BW
4x4 tuck pull ups on the rings

Bench Press
1set of 8 bar + 30kg (50kg)
4 sets of 4 bar + 50kg (70kg)  felt easier this week.

Seated overhead press
1sets of 10 20kg
3 sets of 8 35kg.

Pull ups
2sets of 4 BW
4sets of 4 BW plus 8kg

Single Arm Preacher Curls
3sets of 8 10kg

Single Forearm rotation
3sets of 8. 2.5kg.

Sunday -
Rest day. Well not really, did a load of walking around London today. Bloody knackering walking with a limp and dodgy knee.

Coops_13

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#2 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 17, 2022, 10:57:39 pm
Been AWOL the past few weeks, started conservative rehab protocol for hand which seems to be working. Been doing big a hike / sufferfest each Saturday, fitness improving and weight being lost slowly.

M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Lower body stretching

T: G1. Hand S&C. Shoulder Press, chest press, bicep curl 35lb, Bent over row 55lb X8 *3. Pull-ups +30lb X5 *5. Bar wrist curls 30lb. Rounded bar holds rotation prevention 30lb 20s *3. Density pickups 40lb 40s 20mm HC *4. Incline walk 15 mins

W: G1. Legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5. Bulgarian split squats 75lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X5 *3sets. Lower body stretching

T: G1. Hand S&C. Shoulder Press, chest press, bicep curl 35lb, Bent over row 55lb X8 *3. Pull-ups +30lb X5 *5. Bar wrist curls 30lb. Rounded bar holds rotation prevention 30lb 20s *3. Density pickups 40lb 40s 20mm HC *4 and OH up to 40lb *1.

F: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Lower body stretching.

S: Quandary Peak 14,265ft. Great to knock out my annual 14er so I can focus on climbing when I'm back. Made good pace up to 13k ft then was tough going to the top. Passed 8 out of the 9 people ahead of me - second on the summit. Nice to have a busy top to myself. 7 miles 3.5kft, up and down in 4.5 hours. Definitely feel like fitness is improving

S: Lower body stretching. G1. First hangs in over three weeks: 20mm HC 7s up to +35lb, 20mm OH BW *4, 35deg sloper *2 feet on floor, BW *2. No pain for most of it but cut OH hangs short as hand was fatiguing. Kilterboard 0deg, 7 routes 10a-d. No pain, lots of pump. Pull-ups +40lb X4 *5sets. Shoulder press, bicep curl, chest press 40lb X6 *3sets. Wrist curl bar 30lb X6 *3sets. Hold rotation 30lb 20s *3sets.

James Malloch

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#3 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 18, 2022, 07:17:38 am
Holiday club

M. Van jobs and travel to Dover, via sillygoat holds HQ.

T. Ferry and travel to Leuven. Meal at in-laws.

W. Day with in-laws

T. Day with in-laws

F. Drove to Nismes, Belgium. Lovely stop by a park.

S. Finally got to Font and Did some easy bits at Bois Ronds up to 6B

S. Big day out at Rocher Canon. Did some yellows and blues, then a few bits up to 6B+.

Seems like everyone I know is in Font at the moment!

duncan

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#4 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 18, 2022, 09:41:57 am
Enjoy Fontainebleau everyone.

M - Fingerboard warm-up. Shoulder conditioning. Westway easy routes on autobelay: 14 mins. continuous x2. Finger not worse.
T - 10km walk. Attempted to interpolate some short runs but lungs felt they were about to catch fire.
W - Shoulder conditioning. Walked 10km. Loft renovation, battered after this.
T - Loft renovation. Walked 8km.
F - Train, bus, train to Birmingham (got to love a bank holiday) then drive to Pembroke with Hugo. Arrived early evening but had time to ab. in to Mother Carey’s and led Brazen Buttress. First trad. route of the year so felt a bit clunky but a great one to start with.
S - Mewsford, crag deserted - you just need to walk more than 30 mins. Did Surprise Attack and Daydreams, both ace. Over-heated and under-hydrated and felt wiped-out after.
S - Still battered. Mosaic Wall. Hugo led Mural Landscape then the clag set in so I could retire with a clear conscience.

CV fitness still not great. Shifting rubbish and laying insulation and flooring in the loft is knackering (and not good for the skin) but I’m hoping to excavate enough floor space for a small board when it’s all done.

Two more days in Pembroke and the forecast is decent.

shark

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#5 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 18, 2022, 10:29:47 am
11.8-9 average 162.8 up 0.6lbs

M. Eve. Finger still messy, swollen and weeping. Had it looked at and prescribed a course of antibiotics

T.

W. Llandudno PM Met Paul at midday. Messed about in Cave to warm up. 4 tie ins on Statement. Didn’t feel right. Finger caused me grief - especially painful pulling on quickdraws and was generally a distracting concern. Aim was to link thru the traverse and get established above lip but didn’t get close.

T.

F Bumped into Ru and had a good natter. Warmed up in Cave. Finger less painful but not recovered from weds. Struggled on the traverse again. Felt ok on top section at end.

S.

S. Stretching

Disappointing not to get the link I was after on Statement. Weighing heavy and lacking motivation but content for now to keep my hand in for when it returns. Finger on the mend. Back ok now. Got a 10 day family trip to Briancon booked in June and being joined by the Barkers. Still room in the chalet for Duncan if he can tag it on to the end of his Ceuse trip… :jab:

Nibile

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#6 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 18, 2022, 11:00:11 pm
Power Club

Mon - DOMS. Shoulders and Lattice edge.
Tue - garage session 3 minus press. Tested 1RM clean. Then volume. Lattice edge 85% in between.
Wed - loaded carries 18'.
Thu - board climbing. Nearly did current project.
Fri - heavy boxing bag.
Sat - thruster and wheel.
Sun - light boxing bag.

Duncan Disorderly

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#7 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 19, 2022, 11:28:56 am
School Holiday Club

M: Recover from flight back (got in at 2am)... Sore Finger
T: Dad duty... Sore Finger
W: Dad duty... Sore Finger
T: Dad duty... Sore Finger... Gig @ Sheff Union
F: Hungover... Sore Finger
S: Dad duty @ Baslow with Jus and his daughter - Great fun, set up TR's for the girls then went bouldering/soloing when they got bored... Ace!
S: Drive to N Wales with the boy (just me and him) - Plans afoot to take him on a multi-pitch adventure. Park up at Tryffan in the rain and endure 3 hrs of moaning about the lack of signal! Fuck me! Are all 15 year olds such complete boneheads?!?!

A week in Spain meant that it was my week with kids so wasn't able to do much... Was ace to hang with Em tho, finger needed the time off too as was still quite a hole requiring nuff tape! Nice to catch the last grit of the season although I did fail to get up a problem Jus flashed @ Baslow (probably only 6B+/C) but full on smeary arete business that I'm shit at! Must try harder next year - did some nice solos up to HVS tho, great little (v-little) crag that I've not explored enough... Finger is almost sorted now so back on the horse...

Wellsy

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#8 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 19, 2022, 03:11:52 pm
Last week I did loads of stuff (mostly fingerboarding, pulling and bench plus kneehab) but then I was at a festival on a 3 day bender over the weekend so somewhat of a write off. Back to training this week though so happy days.

mr chaz

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#9 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 19, 2022, 05:40:39 pm
Power Club:

M.
T.
W. Sacrificed training to make some changes to the woodie. Extended the overhang into the apex of the shed roof, doing away with the old vert finishing panel and adding about another 1ft of overhang.  :great:  Its now about 9ft long and hard all the way.
T.
F.
S. Got engaged.
S. Celebrated and cooked Easter dinner.

Back to training this week.

Aussiegav

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#10 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 19, 2022, 05:52:22 pm
Power Club:

M.
T.
W. Sacrificed training to make some changes to the woodie. Extended the overhang into the apex of the shed roof, doing away with the old vert finishing panel and adding about another 1ft of overhang.  :great:  Its now about 9ft long and hard all the way.
T.
F.
S. Got engaged.
S. Celebrated and cooked Easter dinner.

Back to training this week.

Congratulations on the engagement.  :icon_beerchug: :clap2:

tommytwotone

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#11 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 20, 2022, 09:48:18 am
Goal: climb again, then another Font 7a outdoors I guess


Week totally shanked after picking up COVID the previous weekend. Me and the missus both got it, which meant a very low-key first week of Easter holidays for our two kids.


Back up and about by Good Friday so restarted knee physio etc, went for a couple of short walks round village but that's it.

JohnM

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#12 Re: Power Club 630 11 - 17 April 2022
April 20, 2022, 11:45:58 am
M - Rest

T - Bouldering. Felt terrible and couldn't get up much. Couldn't commit to any moves or use the leg properly because of the MCL injury. A few sets of trying to traverse the spray wall to get pumped. Weights - overhead shoulder press, rotator cuff pulls, seated rows. Hike 6.75km +250m.

W - Core (very untrained in this area atm), 1 arm hangs - gone backwards on the BM middle lower edge - couldn't maintain form even with an assistance band - some of it was due to crappy skin. Weights - chest fly, bench press, rotator cuff pulls. Bike ride 25km +93m

T - Hike 5.88km +194m

F - Drove to France.

S - Fly fishing in the Morvan.

S - Eating and drinking all day (sat next to a couple who started to develop Covid symptoms later that night so waiting to see what happens). 

Very frustrating so far this year with various injury set backs and inconsistency! My indoor climbing ability has gone terrible and I can barely drag myself up anything. It feels good to do some weights again though as at least I have such a low base level I can see some improvement. A friend who is a qualified weight lifting coach has prescribed some exercises (that mainly involve the scapular squeezing together) that he guarantees will improve my one arm dead hang ability/shoulder stability after a month so it will be an interesting experiment. The MCL strain is feeling more stable but the ligament still feels bruised. Hopefully, another week of rest and I will be able to manage a light jog and use the leg more for climbing. 

 

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