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Plectrum Maxilla Direct (Read 1054 times)

mic_b

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Plectrum Maxilla Direct
May 07, 2024, 06:37:38 pm
 I tried this today after seeing in it on the routes cleaned or re equipped thread.

I managed to boulder it out to a good flat crimp and big rh sidepull but was struggling to do the move to the big flake.

Is it just take the small sharp 3 finger crimp with lh and flick all the way to the bottom of the big flake with rh or is there a better way I was missing?

Also what's the gear beta after the flake?

kc

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#1 Re: Plectrum Maxilla Direct
May 08, 2024, 07:15:38 pm
I remember threading some nuts into some pockets in the break but just to the right where there is a bit of a ledge you will find a much larger thread for a sling. I think you have to run the next bit out to the ledge where there is a good but hidden double bolt belay.

mic_b

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#2 Re: Plectrum Maxilla Direct
May 09, 2024, 08:11:17 am
Thanks Iíll check it out properly on a rope next week. I thought the boulder problem start was really good and was around 7B to where I got

 

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