UKBouldering.com

Plectrum Maxilla Direct (Read 578 times)

mic_b

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +3/-0
Plectrum Maxilla Direct
May 07, 2024, 06:37:38 pm
 I tried this today after seeing in it on the routes cleaned or re equipped thread.

I managed to boulder it out to a good flat crimp and big rh sidepull but was struggling to do the move to the big flake.

Is it just take the small sharp 3 finger crimp with lh and flick all the way to the bottom of the big flake with rh or is there a better way I was missing?

Also what's the gear beta after the flake?

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 379
  • Karma: +42/-0
#1 Re: Plectrum Maxilla Direct
Yesterday at 07:15:38 pm
I remember threading some nuts into some pockets in the break but just to the right where there is a bit of a ledge you will find a much larger thread for a sling. I think you have to run the next bit out to the ledge where there is a good but hidden double bolt belay.

mic_b

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +3/-0
#2 Re: Plectrum Maxilla Direct
Today at 08:11:17 am
Thanks I’ll check it out properly on a rope next week. I thought the boulder problem start was really good and was around 7B to where I got

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal