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IFSC comps 2022 (Read 29922 times)

edshakey

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#50 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 13, 2022, 10:13:57 am
I was mainly just making sure if people who wouldn't have watched it then viewed the posts, and got interested, they could still watch the playback with some suspense. But I fully agree that no one can be mad for getting spoilers in this thread.

sherlock

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#51 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 13, 2022, 10:29:40 am
Yep, agree with Danny and Ed re.spoilers, I always avoid social media until I've watched it.
But what a great comp that was! The womens especially, where has the Chinese lass been hiding? Really exciting and worth 7 quid a month, if they were all like that. Which,of course, they're not....

abarro81

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#52 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 13, 2022, 10:58:44 am
PSA: seems to be available free in Europe today! Would be good if they had given some notice, but tune in to see a Brit in finals for the first time in a while

Good knowledge, cheers for spotting that

gme

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#53 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 13, 2022, 04:40:30 pm
Good effort Max, great to have a male brit on the podium and not to far off top spot, him and Hamish look the real deal.

The IFSC media people must win an award for the shittest in the business, when was it announced that it would be show live. Sunday evening after a day out on the crag with a belly full of roast dinner would have been the perfect time to watch if i had known it was on.

Caught up today and looked a great final. First time i have watched one all year and feel the whole thing will die if they done put it back on youtube for free. Its pretty niche and always will be so cant ever see it becoming a money maker behind a paywall.

GraemeA

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#54 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 13, 2022, 11:57:12 pm
PSA: seems to be available free in Europe today! Would be good if they had given some notice, but tune in to see a Brit in finals for the first time in a while

Good knowledge, cheers for spotting that

Not so long ago Max was in the final in one of the SLC BWCs last year.

SA Chris

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edshakey

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#56 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 14, 2022, 11:49:27 am
PSA: seems to be available free in Europe today! Would be good if they had given some notice, but tune in to see a Brit in finals for the first time in a while

Good knowledge, cheers for spotting that

Not so long ago Max was in the final in one of the SLC BWCs last year.

True! I think this time it came with more optimism of a podium, as opposed to a surprise finals spot

galpinos

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#57 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 14, 2022, 11:58:29 am
PSA: seems to be available free in Europe today! Would be good if they had given some notice, but tune in to see a Brit in finals for the first time in a while

Good knowledge, cheers for spotting that

Not so long ago Max was in the final in one of the SLC BWCs last year.

True! I think this time it came with more optimism of a podium, as opposed to a surprise finals spot

Yeh, he's had good results this year, being close to the finals a few time (a couple of 8ths and a 12th I think). Didn't think he'd smash it quite as well as he did though!

It great seeing so many GB vests in the semis. We've seen Holly, Jen, Nathan, Hamish and Max, that's pretty good going and seems a step change to results in the past.

SA Chris

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#58 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 14, 2022, 01:35:17 pm
He seems to have bulked out considerably over the last year or so, and managed a step change in raw power. He was always good at the comp style movement.

fatneck

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#59 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 15, 2022, 09:56:23 am
Caught up on the men's last night. Superb effort from Max!! I wondered whether he got his tactics slightly wrong on the last problem - it looked like the kind of move you'd need to try several times quickly to get the feel for it then rest and have an all or nothing go? Anyway, super impressive and like others said, he didn't look out of place at all.

Thought they were a really good set of problems and Yannick on P3 was amazing!

Looking forward to catching up on the women's comp tonight!

Scouse D

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#60 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 15, 2022, 12:31:01 pm
Caught up on the men's last night. Superb effort from Max!! I wondered whether he got his tactics slightly wrong on the last problem - it looked like the kind of move you'd need to try several times quickly to get the feel for it then rest and have an all or nothing go? Anyway, super impressive and like others said, he didn't look out of place at all.


I agree about the tactics. I was watching with my lad and we were both shouting at the screen to have more goes! All the other athletes threw themselves at the dyno and eventually caught the hold. I reckon Max had about 7 chucks in total.

edshakey

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#61 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 21, 2022, 11:01:29 pm
Thought I'd get ahead of the game so people are aware of the comp in case there is a GB success like last time out:

Double header in Innsbruck this week. Boulder season finale with qualis on W, mens semis and final on Th, and then women on F. Lead opener at the weekend, with both men and women doing semis and finals on Sunday.

5 men and 5 women in each comp for GB. Max is sitting in 5th for the season, just behind Mejdi Schalk. Will be tough to catch Tomoa Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii in 2nd and 3rd, but definitely still possible. Yoshiyuki Ogata seems to have the season win tied up - he has been by far the most consistent performer all season, well deserved.

Will be interesting to see how all the boulderers do in the lead comp, given they've been competing for a few months already, compared to people like Molly who should be much more ready for lead exclusively.

Black Diamond should be broadcasting the boulder qualis tomorrow. All finals (boulder and lead) are on Eurosport 1/2, with replays at various times over the duration. However these are only an hour long so expect to miss out on the action! If considering watching after the event, Olympic channel full replays seem best without VPN?
I'm assuming this means semis will be on the online player. No indication yet that there will be streams on YouTube in europe, but you never know - there was little warning before the SLC one and that happened. Generally though, you know the drill - VPN seems the most reliable method.

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_EU/stories/ifsc-world-cup-ibk/

(Please feel free to correct any details, I can't say I've looked at the IFSC website, just pieced it together from looking at the TV schedule and the results app)

Bradders

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#62 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 07:24:53 am
Regarding replays, I found this YouTube channel last week which has the latest rounds cut so every attempt is shown but nothing else. All killer no filler! Nice if you're time poor. It was a good way to catch up on SLC and Brixen anyway.

https://youtube.com/channel/UCila6Nlcf99wrGs3qRX1nSA

Duma

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#63 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 08:21:17 am
Thanks Bradders, that's really handy. I can never be arsed with 2+ hours for a replay, but those edits make it worthwhile.

Cheers for the black diamond link Ed, so it seems we'll get a (free) livestream of the qualifications but not semis/finals?

sherlock

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#64 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 08:26:21 am
The qualifications for Innsbruck are on the Black Diamond Facebook page right now. Sorry, can't seem to link but on Shauna's IG.
Just had a peek and it seems to be one fixed camera position from about 2 miles away, oh well.

Edit: too slow, beaten to it 😊

Duma

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#65 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 09:13:56 am
Got it up on the TV now, just about watchable. Commentary partly English too so ok to follow with the app

GraemeA

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#66 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 09:26:21 am
The qualifications for Innsbruck are on the Black Diamond Facebook page right now. Sorry, can't seem to link but on Shauna's IG.
Just had a peek and it seems to be one fixed camera position from about 2 miles away, oh well.

Edit: too slow, beaten to it 😊

Men's is here https://www.facebook.com/sportclimbing/videos/586101452880708
Women's is here https://www.facebook.com/sportclimbing/videos/716905276189127

(I think)

Duma

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#67 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 09:29:29 am
Is there a stream of the women anywhere? Just realized they're climbing at the same time

Duma

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#68 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 09:30:02 am
Oops, cheers Graeme!

sherlock

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#69 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 09:32:18 am
Is there a stream of the women anywhere? Just realized they're climbing at the same time
I'm struggling to find it.....

sherlock

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#70 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 09:33:59 am
Ah, cheers for that folks, got it now.

Duma

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#71 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 09:40:26 am
Max is sitting in 5th for the season, just behind Mejdi Schalk. Will be tough to catch Tomoa Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii in 2nd and 3rd, but definitely still possible.

Looks like Mejdi hasn't made semis, so 4th is almost in the bag

GraemeA

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#72 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 10:39:36 am
Max is sitting in 5th for the season, just behind Mejdi Schalk. Will be tough to catch Tomoa Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii in 2nd and 3rd, but definitely still possible.

Looks like Mejdi hasn't made semis, so 4th is almost in the bag

Irrespective of whether Max gets 4th or 5th he has a top 10 ranking which means he is 'Extra Quota' ie he is on top of the normal team quota.

edshakey

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#73 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 10:45:24 am
Irrespective of whether Max gets 4th or 5th he has a top 10 ranking which means he is 'Extra Quota' ie he is on top of the normal team quota.

What does this mean? GB will get 6 men's spots next year? Didn't think there was a limit on that so not sure i'm understanding correctly - eg Japan seem to always have tonnes of climbers, I figured it was just up to each federation as to how many athletes they send

Duma

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#74 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 22, 2022, 10:45:49 am
Max and Hamish comfortably into semis again. Bit gutting for Emily Phillips, only one attempt away from semis for her I think.

Couldn't get more than about 14 pixels on the womens feed for some reason so just watched the men, obvs a bit far, but could follow, and quite enjoyed the foreground with the competitors wandering round, kids getting selfies with Megos, past legends like Kilian Fischuber popping up etc.

 

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