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IFSC comps 2022

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Duma:
Janja quoted as missing the rest of the boulder WCs:

“I’ve decided to skip the [rest of the] Boulder season this year. The Olympics last year were a pretty hard take on physical and mental preparation, so I feel that I need a little time off from comps and this year is the perfect year to do that."

Duma:
Seems pretty clear the problems in women's semis and finals were too hard for most of the field, shame but not sure how they split Janja and Natalia otherwise? I guess if it was set at a level more doable for the rest, those two would just flash everything...

At least if Janja misses the rest of the season that won't be a concern!

Edit: I've not watched it (paywall), just going on the lack of tops for the rest of the field.

Bradders:

--- Quote from: Duma on April 10, 2022, 12:19:56 pm ---Janja quoted as missing the rest of the boulder WCs:

“I’ve decided to skip the [rest of the] Boulder season this year. The Olympics last year were a pretty hard take on physical and mental preparation, so I feel that I need a little time off from comps and this year is the perfect year to do that."

--- End quote ---

I wonder whether she'll be kicked off the Slovenian team  :-\


--- Quote from: Duma on April 10, 2022, 12:30:11 pm ---Seems pretty clear the problems in women's semis and finals were too hard for most of the field, shame but not sure how they split Janja and Natalia otherwise? I guess if it was set at a level more doable for the rest, those two would just flash everything...

At least if Janja misses the rest of the season that won't be a concern!

Edit: I've not watched it (paywall), just going on the lack of tops for the rest of the field.

--- End quote ---

I only watched a tiny bit of the semi but the final seemed about perfect really; hard enough to separate Janja and Natalia as you say but still just about doable for the rest. The problem is those two (particularly Janja) are simply so far ahead.

Ito should have had a top on problem 3 but was (very harshly IMO) judged to have matched the top after the buzzer.

jakk:
I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others. See also the BBCs when Shauna was at peak, it wasn't even a competition, just Shauna with 4 easy flashes and then the rest struggling for anything. But I'm not sure what you can really do, I thought this comp had a good balance and still had tension and was fun to watch.

Will be a shame for the show if Janja skips, but exciting to see whatever it is that she is motivated for instead! Hopefully she can pull out a winter send of Dura Dura...

Bradders:
I really want to see Janja do the men's problems. I can only imagine she'd cruise them.

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