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IFSC comps 2022 (Read 21922 times)

erm, sam

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#100 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 28, 2022, 12:15:00 pm
She hesitated on the last moves of the World Champs a couple years ago and took too long, which is why Jesse Pilz won that year. So it does happen...

Bradders

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#101 Re: IFSC comps 2022
June 28, 2022, 01:02:03 pm
Is it actually a 3 horse race though? Janja seemed comfortably ahead for the most part.

Also I’m surprised there isn’t more uproar about the boulders being observed by some people, surely that’s a big knock to the credibility of the round?

I guess that's why I pointed to next season, as Grossman and Meul are both still so young they've surely lots of potential to improve.

Plus Grossman flashed 14/24 boulders in finals this season, so a moderate improvement on that and Janja being more under pressure... stranger things have happened.

Duma

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#102 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 09, 2022, 08:07:41 pm
Lead, obvs, but amazing result in qualifications for Jim and Hamish today! MTS through comfortably too.

edshakey

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#103 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 09, 2022, 10:28:09 pm
Double double tops, great set of results. Three through for GB is a good weekend! Let's get a finals spot this week  :please:

jwi

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#104 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 04:42:36 pm
As everyone could see, the final route for women in Chamonix was way too easy. (The men's route was also likely too easy — but as many of the best men were not present this was less apparent).

Neither Seo Chae-hyun nor Janja Ganbret looked to be in any way, shape or form taxed by the final route. Especially the former, who hiked the route in four minutes looking for all the world like climbing a warm-up route. The route got two more tops, from Rogora and Pilz. Of the remaining four, at least three of them looked capable of topping the route had they not rushed it trying to beat the ties on time.

Janja Ganbret do not complain too much openly about what are clearly too easy routes for her, but posted this after the comp:
Quote from: Janja Ganbret
A few days have passed since the World Cup in Chamonix, but the feeling of disappointment about the routesetting is still more dominant than the joy about my win.
After months spent dedicated to training and working on every single detail, each competitor wants to show what he/she is capable of. What happened in Chamonix is not what I’ve been training for and honestly feels disrespectful towards everyone’s investment to push the sport. Allow us to show what we’ve got, to fight against the pump and be fully satisfied for a reason! ✌🏼

In Grimper magazine, Grossman and Rabotou confirm what was clearly visible for the spectators, explaining that they knew that they had to top the route in very short time as it was clearly too easy to separate on hight achieved.

This was not the first women's comp to set way too easy this year, neither in lead nor in boulder. It might be interesting to speculate why.

finbarrr

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#105 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 05:05:16 pm
yeah,
painful viewing for spectators, must have been mortifying for the setting team.
would love to hear from the setting team, setters all over should be learning from these experiences.
as you said , this wasn't the first time, just way more obvious after two hard finals.

Duma

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#106 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 05:34:18 pm
Agree Chamonix was clearly way too easy, but going on results none of the other WC comps this year look too bad? Only the semi in Innsbruck was obviously out. Janja and some of the other top girls may find the qualification routes easy but the fact is that the important split at that point is 20th to 30th really.

Duma

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#107 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 05:35:12 pm
It might be interesting to speculate why.

Any thoughts?

edshakey

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#108 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 07:34:48 pm
Not sure if it's the cause or not, but the lack of female routesetters on the circuit is definitely a shame, and I suspect there will be some issues that would be addressed by having a more balanced setting team.

Wood FT

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#109 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 07:39:48 pm
Institutionalised sexism

jwi

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#110 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 07:47:07 pm
The lead final in Villars looked much too easy as well, apart from two morpho awkward sideways jumps that managed to eliminate two short and fit contenders: Seo Chae-hyun (first sideways jump) and Brooke Raboutou (second sideways jump).

Staša Gejo hinted at a lack of female setters or forerunners. In France at least there must be close to two handful of still active former competitors who still onsight around 8b/+ (or harder) who could forerun the semis and finals to avoid these kind of catastrophic errors in difficulty level 
« Last Edit: July 17, 2022, 08:21:22 pm by jwi »

jakk

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#111 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 17, 2022, 08:05:05 pm
Seems like a combination of things,
but...
also, institutionalised sexism...

After one of the insta stories I checked out the Brixen setting video and right at the start of the second part they're working on a women's semi boulderthere's an instance of "ok make it a bit harder, but remember its for the women hahahaha". Apparently it was the physically hardest, but more than half the field did it, and many flashed it.

At the start of the year its expected that the level can be off since no one has seen the competitors for months, but on round 5/6?

Obviously each comp has different setters, so one of the interesting questions here is how almost every individual team manages to get it so far off? What is common across different setting groups?
And, among other answers (eg, a very real apparent IFSC demand for tops), that seems to lead us back to...

shark

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#112 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 29, 2022, 09:22:59 am
GB Climbing / BMC press release:

GB Climbing announces line-up for European Championships 2022

Max Milne on his way to a silver medal at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Brixen, Italy. Photo: Lena Drapella

Milne, Mcarthur and Thompson-Smith set to spearhead GB Climbing at must-watch multisport event of the year, the IFSC European Championships 2022 in Munich, Germany.

GB Climbing has announced a strong line up of athletes to represent the country at the European Championships in Munich which takes place from 11-21 August 2022.

This will be the first-time in a competitive championships environment that athletes experience the new combined Boulder and Lead format to be used in the Paris 2024 Olympics. Athletes will compete in the individual events of, Boulder, Lead and Speed climbing. Athletes who compete in Boulder and Lead climbing will be eligible to gain ranking points, with the top eight athletes then qualifying for the new combined event.

The event will see current favourites Hamish Mcarthur (20) building on his Bronze World Championship in Moscow last year, Max Milne (21) consolidating a series of strong performances including a silver during the Brixen installation of the 2022 World Cup season, and Molly Thompson-Smith (24) using the event as a spring board going into Olympic qualifiers next year.

The event also marks a first for rising stars, Mathew Fall (20) a speed specialist who clocked a British record at the July World Cup in Chamonix, Toby Roberts (17) 2022 Lead European Youth Champion and Gold medallist at the 2023 Lead Continental Cup at Zilina, Slovakia and Erin McNeice (18) finalist at the 2023 Lead Continental Cup at Zilina, Slovakia – all selected to the first major championship team.

Lorraine Brown, Head of Performance for GB Climbing, run by the BMC (British Mountaineering Council), said: “This promises to be one of the biggest major events in the climbing calendar this year and a chance to watch the very best British climbers experience and excel in the Olympic format for first time ahead of the Paris 2024 qualifying season next year.

“Our athletes possess an athletic smorgasbord of skills – with the power, flexibility, dynamism and technical skill required for boulder alongside the power and endurance required for Lead. Add to that the athleticism and explosive power of those competing in the speed category and it’s clear to see why sport climbing is capturing the nation!

“The competition will also be a valuable opportunity for our athletes to compete against the very best in Europe before notching it up against the world’s best on home soil less than a month later at the World Cup in Edinburgh on September 9-11.”

The competition runs from 11-21 August, with both senior and junior athletes in action in the Sport Climbing competition.

Great Britain Climbing Team European Championships Munich 2022 line up:
 
Male
Combined Athletes – Boulder and Lead;
Hamish Mcarthur
Max Milne
Jim Pope

Single Discipline – Boulder
Nathan Phillips
Single Discipline – Speed
Mathew Fall
 
Female
Combined Athletes – Boulder and Lead
Molly Thompson-Smith
Erin McNeice

Single Discipline – Boulder
Holly Toothill
Emily Philips

Single Discipline – Lead
Jennifer Wood
Thea Cameron
Jo Neame

The multi-sport European Championships Munich 2022 will also feature some of the continents leading sports including Athletics, Cycling, Gymnastics and Rowing.

Buy tickets at tickets.munich2022.com 

To find out more about GB Climbing visit https://gbclimbing.uk/ or follow us on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook.
 
 

abarro81

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#113 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 29, 2022, 09:41:33 am
I think the BMC might want to work on their wording of press releases, it hurt me a little inside to read that... It even manages to avoid mentioning the most important thing which is whether there's a free livestream.  :lol:
« Last Edit: July 29, 2022, 09:55:14 am by abarro81 »

robertostallioni

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#114 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 29, 2022, 09:56:43 am
"must-watch"  :lol:

SA Chris

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#115 Re: IFSC comps 2022
July 29, 2022, 12:15:03 pm
What do they mean by favourites? In competitions, this usually means most likely to win doesn't it?

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#116 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 01, 2022, 10:03:59 pm
For those with Eurosport, they are now broadcasting "The Climbing Show" (last episode 18.30 hrs Monday 01.08.22). Highlights of recent Ifsc comps with a bit of background stuff.  Looks like they are trying to appeal to non-established fans, and non- climbers and newbies - lots of explanation of scoring and rules etc.

mattbirddog

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#117 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 02, 2022, 11:08:01 am
Hi,

Trying to be fair to GB Climbing - the livestream isn't their responsibility but yeah - would have been helpful - So, the BBC have rights to show European Champs so this hopefully means it will be on the Beeb but no idea if it will be red button, highlights, iPlayer etc - will try to find out.

I have bigged up Max from my side as the only Brit to pick up a WC medal this year and I have briefed them on Toby as a continental medal winner as a one to watch and discuss on the channel.

Surely GB Climbing get full points for getting 'smorgasbord' into a press release tho?  :lol:


I think the BMC might want to work on their wording of press releases, it hurt me a little inside to read that... It even manages to avoid mentioning the most important thing which is whether there's a free livestream.  :lol:

abarro81

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#118 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 02, 2022, 11:43:07 am
Interesting, hopefully it'll be easy enough to access.

Now I read it back I object less, I must have been in a bad mood  :lol:. My objections were mostly nit-picking about how hard it was to wade through - nothing major, but enough weirdness in wording, grammar and typos to make it quite an effort:

must-watch multisport event of the year - Seemed a little over the top

This will be the first-time in a competitive championships environment that athletes experience the new combined Boulder and Lead format to be used in the Paris 2024 Olympics. - I didn't like the sentence structure and thought it could improved for ease of reading

Athletes will compete in the individual events of, Boulder, Lead and Speed climbing - I don't like the capitals, but I guess that's not the BMC's fault. I also don't like the use of the comma after "of"; surely a colon or nothing would be more appropriate?

The event will see current favourites - This was weird because none of these people are "favourites" surely, even if they're all in with a good chance of doing well

Toby Roberts (17) 2022 [...] 2023 Lead Continental Cup at Zilina, Slovakia and Erin McNeice (18) finalist at the 2023 Lead Continental Cup at Zilina, Slovakia - On second thoughts, if Toby and Erin have dialled time travel maybe they should be favourites?

– all selected to the first major championship team. - Typo

a chance to watch the very best British climbers experience and excel in the Olympic format - What if they all flop?

“Our athletes possess an athletic smorgasbord of skills – with the power, flexibility, dynamism and technical skill required for boulder alongside the power and endurance required for Lead. Add to that the athleticism and explosive power of those competing in the speed category - a smorgasbord of power, power and explosive power doesn't sounds like a smorgasbord to me  :-\ Or at least it's the sort of thing you'd edit out if you read it back.

and it’s clear to see why sport climbing is capturing the nation! - It's not bloody sport climbing. Or at least use capitals on the only one where a capital might signify something different from lower case.

“The competition will also be a valuable opportunity for our athletes to compete against the very best in Europe before notching it up against the world’s best - Notching what up? That's a rhetorical question, but it seemed like very strange wording



andy popp

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#119 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 02, 2022, 11:56:24 am
Athletes will compete in the individual events of, Boulder, Lead and Speed climbing - I don't like the capitals, but I guess that's not the BMC's fault. I also don't like the use of the comma after "of"; surely a colon or nothing would be more appropriate?

And an "Oxford" comma after Lead, of course. No punctuation necessary after the of.  ;D

jwi

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#120 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 02, 2022, 02:32:05 pm
Word’s grammar and spelling check enforces the use of the serial comma, and a million other unnecessary commas. There’s nothing we can do but to learn to live with it.

GraemeA

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#121 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 05, 2022, 06:24:37 pm
At least the BMC have at last worked out that the discipline is Boulder, not Bouldering. I wonder whether they will change the name of the British Bouldering Championships to the British Boulder Championships but I doubt it :-)

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#122 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 05, 2022, 06:45:05 pm
Eh? Why would it be Boulder, not Bouldering?

Sounds a bit like people who say bloc, when they really mean problem or boulder.

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#123 Re: IFSC comps 2022
August 05, 2022, 06:47:13 pm
I wonder whether they will change the name of the British Bouldering Championships to the British Boulder Championships but I doubt it :-)

British Boulder Championships sounds like a competition between inanimate lumps of stone!

I hadn’t really noticed before that other events are named after the medium rather than the activity, Road World Championships for example.

edshakey

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#124 Re: IFSC comps 2022
September 11, 2022, 01:11:29 pm
Anyone been able to find much out about the Edinburgh comp? Between not being on Instagram and the IFSC not doing much on social media, I can't quite work out what happened in qualifiers. For example, Hamish only came 47th out of 50?! Very out of character for him.

Good to see some semi finalists, as it stands Toby is still in with a shout of finals - brilliant few months for him.

 

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