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IFSC comps 2022
Duma:
--- Quote from: jakk on April 10, 2022, 08:01:27 pm ---I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others. See also the BBCs when Shauna was at peak, it wasn't even a competition, just Shauna with 4 easy flashes and then the rest struggling for anything. But I'm not sure what you can really do, I thought this comp had a good balance and still had tension and was fun to watch.
Will be a shame for the show if Janja skips, but exciting to see whatever it is that she is motivated for instead! Hopefully she can pull out a winter send of Dura Dura...
--- End quote ---
Think those are easier situations though: with one climber way out you set at the level of the rest - maybe not so much fun for Janja (or whoever) but still a good show as the other 5 in finals get to fight on problems at the appropriate level.
Similarly if you have 3 or more at a higher level - set for them, a bit of a shame for the others in the final, but there'll be enough tops from the best few to be fun watching.
In this case in order to split the top 2, the problems have to be so hard that most of the field don't get to do much climbing (2 tops out if a possible 16 from the first 4 climbers, and all on the same problem). Can't see an easy way round it, as you need to split the top two.
jakk:
--- Quote from: Duma on April 10, 2022, 09:20:55 pm ---
--- Quote from: jakk on April 10, 2022, 08:01:27 pm ---I remember the women's field having this problem before, but with more athletes, back in around 2014. You had Anna Stohr, Jule Wurn, Shauna, Akiyo, and (I think) Melissa Le Neve, operating at a totally different level than the rest, so it was those 5 plus a bonus person in finals each week, and qualis/semis was them all absolutely crushing and then maybe a top for the others. See also the BBCs when Shauna was at peak, it wasn't even a competition, just Shauna with 4 easy flashes and then the rest struggling for anything. But I'm not sure what you can really do, I thought this comp had a good balance and still had tension and was fun to watch.
Will be a shame for the show if Janja skips, but exciting to see whatever it is that she is motivated for instead! Hopefully she can pull out a winter send of Dura Dura...
--- End quote ---
Think those are easier situations though: with one climber way out you set at the level of the rest - maybe not so much fun for Janja (or whoever) but still a good show as the other 5 in finals get to fight on problems at the appropriate level.
Similarly if you have 3 or more at a higher level - set for them, a bit of a shame for the others in the final, but there'll be enough tops from the best few to be fun watching.
In this case in order to split the top 2, the problems have to be so hard that most of the field don't get to do much climbing (2 tops out if a possible 16 from the first 4 climbers, and all on the same problem). Can't see an easy way round it, as you need to split the top two.
--- End quote ---
Yeah that's a good point, much harder when you need to split at both ends somehow.
mrjonathanr:
You could have a single set of problems and rank according to men, women, absolute position. Would be interesting to see where Janja fits that.
Bradders:
The men's comp was great. Spoilers below.
NSFW : Semis was interesting. Bizarre to see Sudar come last having come first in qualifying. Floaty performance from Fujii, absolutely cruising.
Max was so close! If he'd just squeezed a little bit more on problem 4 he'd have been in.
Finals was brilliant, one of the most entertaining and competitive finals I think I've seen. Says it all that by the last problem any one of them could still have won it, and indeed Fujii coming out last was either going to finish 1st or 6th! Really surprising he made no impression on the last problem.
Bizarre controversy with Duffy. I'm not sure whether having to correct so many of the climbers on the start position for problem 3 is indicative of good or poor setting...certainly entertaining to watch them all fall off it before it finally clicked. Can imagine it was very frustrating for them though! I wonder how much having to do the problem 3 times took out of Duffy; if he'd topped problem 4 he'd have won but just looked a little tired when he made it to the last move.
Problem 2 I thought was brilliantly set; utterly deceptive so most of them spent the majority of their time trying duff beta. Glad it still had a top. On that note Schalck couldn't have been any closer to the win, really impressive. When he got to the last move on problem 4 I thought he was going to piss it he was going so well.
SA Chris:
Is there any way to watch finals without paying in the UK?
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